Do any of the car buffs out there know what car brand this is and year model? The picture is in the collection of family pictures I am scanning in and it would help to put time bench marks on the photos in the strips. My guess it is about 1948. The photos of me and my sister look to be about that vintage. The house in the background is the house my father grew up in and where I lived for several years in the mid to late 40's.

Thanks for any positive assistance anyone can give.

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What I do with any situation like this, using a digital camera, is to set my camera up on a tripod or hand held and begin shooting at a best guess exposure on manual mode. Once taken adjust the exposure using a faster or slower shutter speed or change in ISO or aperture. With today's digital cameras the photographer can delete all the trial shots with out having to spend many $ in processing and waiting to see where the best exposure may be. The above suggestions are good but as pointed out there are many variables that need to be taken into account that to give or get a definitive answer may be difficult. Shoot a lot of pictures and take lots of notes. Most cameras record the meta data for each shot. Right click on the picture and at the bottom of the list is properties. Click in properties and a screen will display with tabs on various types of data stored. Among the data stored is the exposure records. This is a source of information that can be used for subsequent shoots.

Mike

Great to hear that you have had good luck with the first eye. When I had mine done I did not notice any perceptible change in color change but everyone is different. In my case I opted for the far to be good and glasses for the near. This is something everyone needs to be aware of. Thanks for bringing the subject up for the group. Far distance for me is now 20/20 or maybe a little better.

For better profiles tie the suet cage in front of the support pole.

All of the above on exposure and the shots do not seem to have a focal point. Less can mean more.

Are your landscape shots set at infinity? It could be that the focus at infinity may be off. The amount of blur in the posted picture looks as though everything is equally blurred. I would suggest you view a scene set at infinity and see if it appears sharp or blurred. If it was misting snow I would expect some areas nearer the camera would be sharper. Hard to tell 1500 miles away.

I am going to be real basic here, but here goes.
1. Since this has been consistent with you I assume that all shots were taken with the Tamron mentioned.
2. Try another lens, if you have one, then the Tamron with the same settings and the same scene. Compare the results.
3. Try taking a few shots of a item with sharp edges or a relative closeup of something like the grass in the scene.
4. Check the cleanliness of the front element and then the back element.
5. Do you have a filter on your lens, if so try a shot without.
6. Is the lens fogged when you take the camera outside during the cold.

The above suggestions around aperture and exposure are good as well. Most lens work best when their settings are in the middle of their range. Being on a tripod and having a delay will eliminate most of not all shake. Another technique to help steady the camera is to place a sand or beanbag over the camera while on the tripod. A real pain but may help isolate the issue. May not be needed once the solution is found.

Where is the photo?

The stitch was done along a line where the main water element was the non-surf water. That and probably some just dumb luck.

Got the lens mounted on the DSLR and was able to get a couple of test shots. The key to the issue is I did not realize that the wedged shaped ring was the secondary adapter to the lens. Once I realized that the rest was easy. Thanks for the positive suggestions. Yes I realize the Vivitar is not a show stopper but it is paid for and what I have for now.

You do realize that if you had got several shots at different focus you could have stacked them to get all in focus? Terrific shot. Wow.

When using a polarizer filter rotate it to see and get maximum affect. As Linda noted it also depends on the angle to the sun or reflections.

Great use of the reflection to fill in the details. IMO no changes need to be made.

These shots define the quality we should all try to achieve.

I tried with prints a couple of times but was very discouraged with the results. What is more amazing is the SW I am using not only doe it stitch but I do not have to show it where the frames match. It figures it out on its own.