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May 30, 2019 08:17:52   #
Does your old iMac have a Time Capsule backup device? If so, all you need to do is connect it to your new system and perform a Restore and it will pull the last backup from iCloud. Also, if as often recommended here, you used a separate external drive to store your photos and connect it to your new iMac all of your pics as well as the Lightroom cataloging of same will load. I did force myself before the install to do an extreme cull of my stored pics eliminating dupes and photos that really did not make the cut. Painful but I am glad I did it-went from just over 13k pics to 1,895. Good luck, Pat
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May 19, 2019 08:53:00   #
You need a Lightning to USB3 adapter available from Apple or most major electronic stores ($40.00)

Pat
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May 16, 2019 09:09:26   #
bleirer wrote:


Except for the reason I switched to the Z7, weight, the 850 with 14-24 and 24-70 lenses is 6.61 lbs the Z7 with 14-30 and 24-70 is 3.49 lbs. I actually had the 810 and between it an the lenses my backpack weighed in at 22lbs; my current gear is 10.5lbs and at 71yrs there were places I simply could not go with former set-up.

Pat
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May 3, 2019 22:17:04   #
fotoman150 wrote:
I like color photos with dark, rich colors and I adjust them so in PP.

When I convert to black and white and try different settings I just can’t make it look as good as other people’s black and white even when I look at YouTube videos and use presets. I just really don’t like black and white but some people can do it really well and it’s acceptable.

Same thing for that light and airy look. Sometimes I think it looks good for weddings. I try that in camera and in PP and it looks like s**t. It just looks overexposed when I do it. Although I saw one person’ light and airy that was so overexposed you could barely tell there was an image in the photo and I felt it was way over done.

And about half the time everyone else’s photography looks better than mine. Even when I get a lot of compliments from my clients and friends.

I think it is healthy to be somewhat disappointed in ones' work that doesn't meet expectations but only to the degree that it spurs you to get better. I took classes many years ago with a professional that did stills for CBS News and she had us do an exercise with slide film with using "high key" and "low key" exposures which with slide film meant only 1/2 stop over or under metered "correct" exposure. The high key was equivalent to what you call "that light and airy look". The "secret" was in using subjects that fit that mood and metering properly properly. Following her instruction I posed a friend with blonde hair and fair skin and her daughter with same characteristics in the bay window of their living room with the daughter nestled against her and framed tightly with as little of the background window showing as possible and dressed in wispy off white dresses. I metered mom's cheek and opened 1/2 stop getting the perfect ethereal soft effect. Keep working at it and it will eventually come to you. Best to you. Pat
It’s like I’m my own worst critic. Every so often I create a shot that I’m really proud of.

Does anyone else have these feelings?
I like color photos with dark, rich colors and I a... (show quote)
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Apr 26, 2019 11:49:12   #
If you really want to know how at least one Nat Geo Photographer "does it" check out The Great Courses website for at least three video courses by Nat Geo pros. Joel Sartore does two of them and they are extensive with 24 30 minute lessons on everything one can imagine. Good stuff!

Pat
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Mar 31, 2019 10:55:20   #
Curmudgeon wrote:
I don't understand what happened but somewhere along the way I've gotten old. I am a hunter for as long as I can be although I am setting up a macro studio. I can no longer get down on one knee, let alone two knees or prone, and get up again without help. Are there any devices or methods that will allow me to continue to shoot ground level subjects for a while longer?

I have tried Live View but it is of limited value in bright sunlight. I have considered right angle finders for my D7200 but $179 is a lot of money for something that may not work. Any and all suggestions except, find somebody to go along with me, are greatly appreciated.

Old age sucks, but it beats the other alternative.
I don't understand what happened but somewhere alo... (show quote)


If your camera has an articulating LCD consider getting a "Hoodman" which is a $40 rubber hood sized to fit 3.2" screens with a magnifying diopter adjustable lens that will give you an excellent view in many situations.

Pat
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Mar 29, 2019 10:31:28   #
Here are two concerns identified to me by a computer security professional:
Avoid bulk emails containing manu addresses in either the To: or Cc: mode as many, even most, servers at institutions will invoke spam filters and divert or even delete emails with certain number of addresses (17 is frequent). The more important reason is that hacker troll for emails with a large # of addresses that can be viewed when To or Cc is used as they harvest and try to hack those email addresses. The way around this is to use Bcc: because every address is sent individually and hackers bypass those.

Pat
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Mar 26, 2019 13:06:44   #
GENorkus wrote:
Is that a sling model?


I don't see a model designation on it. It is a single strap that goes across your body front and back and is supported by a single padded shoulder rest about 12" long and at the business end is a small carabiner type swivel to which a camera mount using a 1/4/20 thread and rubber washer. It is both solid and comfortable and much better than the factory straps that hang from your neck. Check them out at blackrapid.com. I believe I paid about $50.00 at a local shop.

Pat
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Mar 26, 2019 10:33:23   #
GENorkus wrote:
Just wondering if anyone can suggest a backpack strap that doesn't rest on my left collerbone? Or maybe a pad?

(I just had a Pacemaker installed and have to watch out what rubs there for a length of time.)


You can get Black Rapid straps that rest on a single shoulder (right in your case) and the camera will rest against your left hip or side depending on the length you adjust it to leaving your left shoulder completely out of the equation.

Pat
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Mar 21, 2019 11:25:25   #
Hi Folks, All of Baltimore is not "The Wire" as seen on HBO. While there are places in town where I would not take my camera and tripod Federal Hill from where I took my pic is not one of them.

Pat
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Mar 21, 2019 10:15:47   #
Hamltnblue wrote:
Hello
I am practicing for my first city night shot. Here are the coordinates for google maps:
39.947228, -75.187457
It's the first time I'll be using long exposures outside of practicing at home.
The camera is a Nikon Z6 with 24-70 F4 Lens.
What would be good starter settings?
Any other suggestions would be appreciated as well.
Thanks,
Jim


Hi Jim, Following the lead of exposure guru Bryan Peterson night cityscapes are well served by metering "the dusky blue sky" by which he means the cloudless sky about an hour or so after full sunset when there is still a hint of blue in the darkened sky. Do not include any light sources. I followed his advice with the attached Baltimore skyline and it served me well. The moon was added as a layer in Photoshop after the fact. Used a Z7 and same lens as yours on 24mm. Try it.

Pat


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Mar 20, 2019 10:55:54   #
Did exactly this 5 most ago. Had a 21" iMac wi 8gb RAM from 2011. Last fall I traded my Nikon D810 for the new Z7 and the change from 36mp to 45mp files was equivalent to putting molasses in my system. Using lightroom my slowest process was doing HDRs with three raw files with a base exposure plus two stops over and two stops under. It took 4-5 minutes with the D810 files and moved to 30-40 minutes with the Z7 files. In December I pulled the trigger on a new 27" iMac (the 3.1 Ghz model as I could add up to 64gb memory) . I stuck with the Fusion drive as I never had an issue with any previous Mac (had five over the years) and I did recently add a 2Tb SSD drive used exclusively for my photos. I configured the Mac with only 8Gb memory because I found that I could buy 32Gb of memory online from OWC(Other World Computing) for $325 less than Apple. It comes as 2 16Gb chips and is a piece of cake to install. If you do not already have one I would highly recommend the Apple Time Machine. It is a 2 or 3 TB hard drive with built in WiFi and automatic connection to iCloud. When installed it will automatically back up you entire system, including external hard drives, every ten minutes while operating your system. This item is no longer in production but the rep when I got my new system said Apple still had plenty of stock and still selling new units. Before I installed my new iMac I purged my full system of duplicates and unwanted files and did a final backup. When I set up the new Mac all I had to do was initiate a "Restore" from my Time Machine and in 40 minutes I was up and running. It screams- HDRs that took 30 minutes are now done in 30 seconds! Best move I made in years. Pat


picsman wrote:
Having been an Apple universe consumer I now need to upgrade my iMac (2013). I take mainly amateur sports pix and can have 4,000 to process in a single batch. I have found Capture One (v11) to give me the fastest processing incorporating auto adjust and style additions on uploads from my Nikon D750 RAW files. These files are all kept on an external hard drive.

On occasions I will have open half a dozen or so applications, eg mail, browser, capture one, DxO, Nik, photoshop or affinity.

Apple have a new 27" mac, what specs does anyone recommend?
Having been an Apple universe consumer I now need ... (show quote)
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Mar 8, 2019 10:37:16   #
A major key to portraiture is the eyes, make sure your primary focus is there. You need either supplemental lighting (softened flash) or, at least, a reflector to get some light into those eyes producing a "catchlight" meaning a specular reflection of a lightsource in the eye. As others have noted your model has little or no animation in her facial expressions-every image is closed mouthed which makes for rather flat/boring subjects. Pat
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Mar 7, 2019 10:08:38   #
Whenever the film plane(sensor plane in digital) is not perfectly squared to the subject one will get skewing (horizontal) and keystoneing (vertical). Most PP programs can fairly easily fix one or the other but both can be difficult in that most of the time the crop needed for corrections will cut into your main subject. In this particular image centering yourself on the window would eliminate the skew and you would only have to correct for the vertical keystone to make it architecturally accurate. Pat
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Feb 28, 2019 09:28:42   #
Blurb via Lightroom does a good job. Pat
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