Yes, the first thing I'd suspect is your battery. It might just be getting old, unable to take a full charge and need replacement.

Do you use a battery grip on the camera? If so, that's another possible point of failure. Check the contacts between the grip and the camera, the contacts between the batteries and the grip, that the grip is fully and tightly attached, and operate the grip's off/on switch a half dozen or more times (it's a "self cleaning" design, operating it can often clean any build up of oxidization). Third party grips are particularly prone to problems. Canon OEM grips rarely give problems.

Aside from all that, you might try updating or reloading the camera's firmware. That's essentially an "operating system" for the computerized cameras we use these days. And, just like desktops and laptops, the OS can become corrupted over time and may need a clean installation.

If the problem persists after trying those things, contact Canon for advice. They will probably want you to send the camera in for service.

When using a camera in a cold environment, there usually aren't problems unless things get REALLY cold, which can cause shutters to be sluggish due to thickening of the oils used to lubricate them. Often cameras that are specially prepared for use in really cold environments have the standard lubrication removed and replaced with thinner products that are less likely to cause issues (but may be inadequate lubrication in warmer climes). The synthetic lubricantion typically used in modern gear is a lot less prone to issues related to temperature, though. And a refrigerator isn't really all that cold.

However, be sure to have a spare battery available for extended shooting in lower temps. Cold makes batteries much less efficient. Keep the spare warm in a pocket or somehow and swap them out when the first battery appears to be getting low on power. Once it's warmed back up in a pocket, that first battery should recover to some extent and be usable again.

As noted by other responses, you do need to be careful about condensation in the camera and lens(es). Condensation occurs when an object is cold, then suddenly exposed to warmer air. The more ambient moisture in the air and the greater the difference in temperatures, the more likely it will occur. Best solution is to seal up the gear - as has been suggested - (I'd double up plastic bags, though) and let the gear slowly adapt to the new temperature before unsealing it. 45 minutes to an hour is usually sufficient time... But, it depends, a greater difference in the temps may need longer.

Hi David. I am now aware that the exposure of the window has to be within a certain level for "darken" to work. Sounds like a lot of trial and error. On a more practical level, I am more concerned with editing time for each shot and this magical technique would take me more time than if I took an interior and window shot separate and cut the window out. The going rate where I live is only $100.00. The shots are only used as thumb nails on a MLS.. As long as I get the interior well lit and sharp and the window not too blown out I know my clients would be happy. It's a lot better than the agents using their I-Phones. So not to create offending some of the Pros, I will go with my usual shoot, & leave this technique for those that do magazine and publications. I am just a hard working photographer not a legion LOL. Just thought the technique would save me time.

When I was selling resort properties in the Lake Tahoe area, where the views often were worth more than the dwelling, I used film and the flash/ambient metering technique (with a flash meter). It is a pretty simple technique using a manual flash setting and NO post processing because it was analog. I then scanned the negatives into jpeg and cropped, etc. for the brochures and ads. TTL flash didn't work as well for me. I metered for the window to show the view. Then I metered for the interior, with a flash meter and manual flash to match the exposure metered for the window (s). It is basically the same flash metering procedure as balancing flash and ambient light levels.

Buuuutttt, Today, I use 2 exposures either metered or multiple bracketed ones and use the HDR blend function in LR.

Guaranteed, it is simple because I can do it repeatedly. Photoshop is an anathema for me. I can use it but is about a painful as a visit to to a retail store.

Good luck, Lee.
C

When I was selling resort properties in the Lake Tahoe area, where the views often were worth more than the dwelling, I used film and the flash/ambient metering technique (with a flash meter). It is a pretty simple technique using a manual flash setting and NO post processing because it was analog. I then scanned the negatives into jpeg and cropped, etc. for the brochures and ads. TTL flash didn't work as well for me. I metered for the window to show the view. Then I metered for the interior, with a flash meter and manual flash to match the exposure metered for the window (s). It is basically the same flash metering procedure as balancing flash and ambient light levels.

Buuuutttt, Today, I use 2 exposures either metered or multiple bracketed ones and use the HDR blend function in LR.

Guaranteed, it is simple because I can do it repeatedly. Photoshop is an anathema for me. I can use it but is about a painful as a visit to to a retail store.

Good luck, Lee.
C

The top and real dials control aperture and shutter speed. Were both dials malfunctioning? Were both of them temporarily dead and unable to control other functions as well? If both dials continued to work for other functions, and both recovered at the same time my best guess is it wasn't a result of moisture getting past the seals. In my experience, problems caused from moisture entering switches and controls past the seals on Canon EOS bodies will usually disable the control completely, not for just some functionality.

Did you pull the lens off to check for any sign of moisture inside the camera? It would seem to me that if you had enough moisture inside the camera to cause an issue with the exposure meter that you would have other problems also. It may not be related to moisture at all.
Here is a method to remove moisture from items: Remove the battery, card, and lens. Leave all the doors and flaps open. In the evening when you are done opening and closing your refrigerator put the camera and an empty, open zip lock bag, big enough to hold the camera, in the refrigerator over night. Don't put the camera in the bag. Refrigerated air is extremely dry and will pull moisture out of just about anything. In the morning, before removing it put it in the bag, seal it, and let it warm up to room temp.
I do wonder if moisture is the problem, but it won't hurt to make sure it is dry inside.

Did you pull the lens off to check for any sign of moisture inside the camera? It would seem to me that if you had enough moisture inside the camera to cause an issue with the exposure meter that you would have other problems also. It may not be related to moisture at all.
Here is a method to remove moisture from items: Remove the battery, card, and lens. Leave all the doors and flaps open. In the evening when you are done opening and closing your refrigerator put the camera and an empty, open zip lock bag, big enough to hold the camera, in the refrigerator over night. Don't put the camera in the bag. Refrigerated air is extremely dry and will pull moisture out of just about anything. In the morning, before removing it put it in the bag, seal it, and let it warm up to room temp.
I do wonder if moisture is the problem, but it won't hurt to make sure it is dry inside.

You indicated "my camera's exposure adjustment stopped working. " Can you be a little more specific about the problem? Many of the features, buttons, and dials on that camera can adjust exposure. Which control failed to work?
It could be the moisture, or the weather could just have been a coincidence. For instance it could also have been an intermittent failure of the control you were using or an intermittent main board issue, or a memory glitch. No way of being certain without a diagnostic and even then it might not identify the issue.