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Feb 21, 2018 09:48:59   #
Shutter Island Photography wrote:
I'm looking for a new monitor for my computer and I'm wondering what I should be looking for in a monitor to get my best results in the finished product.

Unless you are printing, the monitor you use is not relevant. If you are posting on the web, those viewing your image will be using all sorts of monitors of which 99% will be uncalibrated. If you are printing, calibrate the monitor you have, for best results. Even with a high quality calibrated monitor, you will have to make adjustments to you colors and sharpness to replicate in print what you see on your monitor.
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Feb 12, 2018 17:37:52   #
Wingpilot wrote:
What I will say is that I believe the professional level DSLR’s may be superior to the current mirrorless cameras in that they they are certainly more robust. They’re built for heavy duty use, and are priced accordingly.

There is a robustness test? What do they do? Drop from four feet. I once dropped a Sony A7R2 from around four feet. No problem; even the IBIS works fine (I wouldn't advise anyone to try it--I was probably lucky). But I suspect the mirror support system in a DSLR would be the weak link if you drop a DSLR. Also, if you drop any camera with a lens mounted on it, the lens will break before the camera.

Seriously, the structure of many mirrorless cameras is just as good as that in a DSLR. Take a look at the Olympus OM-D E-M! or the Fuji X-T2.
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Feb 11, 2018 14:49:48   #
Largobob wrote:
Personally, I've yet to see any breathtaking image coming from a mirrorless camera. When I do, then let's talk.

How would you know? Do you always check when you see a photo that impresses you? Your bias is breathtaking.
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Feb 11, 2018 14:43:28   #
jarneyd wrote:
I was able to find a snow owl to shoot yesterday and he was pretty sedentary even with folks coming and going to get his Photo. I used my D7100 with a Sigma 150-600 on a monopod stabilazation active because of the high winds, with the Iso up a bit to keep the Shutter speed up and because of the grass blowing right in front of his face, I used his front shoulder as my focus point. It just doesn't seem as sharp as it should be. I also shot with my D600, Nikon 80-200, 2.8 with a 2x converter and no stabilazition and had about the same result. Then I tried with the 600 and the Sigma and basically got the same result. I used his shoulder for my focus point in each photo. It was late afternoon and overcast. Am I expecting to much or is there something I could try for a better result?
Thanks for your informed replies.
I was able to find a snow owl to shoot yesterday a... (show quote)

The AF system in your camera will struggle at f8. A 2x converter will also cause a loss of sharpness. Also, the 150-600mm lenses are not as sharp at 600mm as at 500mm. I would focus manually at around 500-550mm with the 150-600mm lens, at f8 or f11.
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Feb 11, 2018 13:50:29   #
Wingpilot wrote:
It's been said a number of times here on UHH that a mirrorless camera just can't take images equal to those taken with a DSLR. I'm wonder how that is a valid supposition. It seems to me that once the image hits the sensor, the rest is up to the electronics to process that image, and it makes no difference how it got into the camera at that point.

So how is it that having a mirror and pentaprism in a camera makes its images superior to those taken with a mirrorless camera?

It is ridiculous to say that a mirrorless camera just can't take images equal to those taken with a DSLR. That implies that the mirror flopping up and down in a DSLR and an autofocus sensor separate from the image plane will improve image quality. Image quality depends on the lens and the image sensor. The mirror in the DSLR actually causes vibration that is evident as blur in images at some shutter speeds. The separate AF sensor in DSLRs means the AF path is different from the image sensor path. This results in front or back focus problems if the mirror or AF sensor are not perfectly aligned during manufacturing.

Differences in image quality also depend on the manufacturers implementation of in-camera software and supporting electronics. Given the same image sensor,
one company may chose to sacrifice some image quality at low ISO to achieve improved image quality at high ISO. Another company may make the opposite tradeoff. Or one company may simply implement their support electronics and software better than other companies resulting in superior image quality.
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Feb 2, 2018 15:25:47   #
Mick 53 wrote:
Hello Friends,
I am looking for some advice on a solution or another Canon camera. I shoot fast action sports outside and low light conditions. I use a Canon 70 d and a Canon 60 D. My main two lenses are Canon 70-200 mm 2.8 L IS 11 and Canon 24-105 mm IS Usm. My problem is when I set the ISO to auto or raise it up for fast shutter speed and wide open Ap. I get too much noise. Would I have to go to a full frame camera to help with this problem?
Thanks in advance.
Mick

Your post does not provide enough information. At what ISO do you get too much noise? Are you shooting JPEG or RAW. Are you only one stop off or are you several stops off? The Canon 6D will give you about 1.5 stops of improvement in noise. The Canon 1DX MK 2 will give you around two stops improvement in noise. Have you tried post-processing noise reduction?
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Feb 2, 2018 15:06:15   #
al13 wrote:
I have finished my second Lightroom class at the Vanderbilt University Art Department. My question refers to our instructor’s comments concerning Raw versus JPEG. During both recent classes he has strongly stated that we should be shooting in JPEG not Raw. He said he shoots over 95 percent of his photos in JPEG. He said he rarely PP’s his photos and if needed he can do that in JPEG using Lightroom or Photoshop and get the same results. He is a University photographer, news photographer, mid 40’s, etc. He seems to know Lightroom and how to properly set up the catalog portion but I am having problems with his JPEG philosophy.

I will continue to shoot in raw but would appreciate any insight as to why an alleged professional would teach us to shoot in JPEG. Almost forgot to add that he also teaches a basic digital class and tells those students to shoot JPEG only as the files are smaller and require less PP. I have stated in open class that several friends who were professional photographers and still have photo web sites advised me to shoot in Raw and the reasons behind their advice. He answered he doesn’t understand why people continue to offer that type of advice.

I have decided to keep my mouth shut and try to finish the class I paid bucks for. Am I missing something?

Thanks
I have finished my second Lightroom class at the V... (show quote)

Every photographer can be classified somewhere on the spectrum from "documenter" to "artist." JPEG only is for someone firmly on the "documenter" end of that spectrum. This is where you find photojournalists and selfie photographers. At other end of the spectrum are the fine art photographers.
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Feb 1, 2018 13:31:31   #
ICN3S wrote:
Does anyone know if there is a flash bracket that puts flash directly under camera. My husband helps our local fire department at auto accidents and fires as their photographer and sometimes has to take pictures at night in fog.........under the camera flash seems to clear the fog but holding a flash while watching your back for traffic and trying to get the shots you need is difficult. Thanks!

Off camera flash connected to the camera by a cable allows you to put the flash anywhere you want. You mount flash mounted on the hot shoe and, with the cable plugged into the camera, remove it and change its location as required.
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Feb 1, 2018 13:28:15   #
Silverman wrote:
I have a Nikon D3300, is there a acceptable memory limit to use in my Camera, the highest I presently have is 32gb, may I use higher memory cards, how high?

The answers to questions regarding your camera can be found in the camera manual. If you have misplaced it, you can download it from the manufacturer's web site. Since I have occasionally seen incorrect answers posted to questions on forums, I would advise you to check the camera manual.
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Feb 1, 2018 13:18:20   #
digit-up wrote:
Am I wrong or am I probably seeing BETTER images since I just switched to shooting my Pentax K-1 in raw Full-frame???

JPEG images are images that are created from RAW data. The algorithm used to create a JPEG image from RAW data takes 12bit, 14bit, or 16bit per channel RAW data (# of bits depends on the camera and the camera settings) and compresses it to 8bit per channel in the JPEG format. Every time you open and then save a JPEG file, further JPEG compression (and loss of data) occurs. JPEG images out of camera look ok on the internet or in small prints, but in large prints you often see banding or other defects as a result of data loss. Processing a JPEG image makes the problem worse, because further data losses occur when you save the image in JPEG format. If you intend to process an image or make a large print, use RAW.
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Jan 24, 2018 19:30:56   #
If you haven't come across Dave Morrow's new series on landscape photography, you are missing an amazing set of tutorials. These are the best photography instruction videos I have ever seen. I consider myself an experience photographer, but I learn something of value to me with every episode.

https://www.davemorrowphotography.com/landscape-photography-journals
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Jan 23, 2018 06:59:23   #
al13 wrote:
I start a Lightroom class at one of our Universities this coming Wednesday. I have purchased Lightroom Classic and Paintshop per the class requirements. Is there a preferred way to set up the catalog system? I would like to get a general idea before starting class as many UH members are long time LR users. The class is geared to how to use LR to process you pictures not sure if they will cover setting it up the right way first time.

And yes, I know about google, the many books and videos that are available. I am reaching out to experienced UH member’s for advice.

Thanks
I start a Lightroom class at one of our Universiti... (show quote)

Organize by year, then event.
File name: yyyymmdd_event_sequence#
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Jan 23, 2018 06:57:23   #
Based on Sony's schedule for high resolution sensors, I suspect the next GFX will have a 100MP focal plane. That is a lot of pixels to read out and I suspect it will take too long for the GFX to handle 4K video. The key to 4K video turns out to be processor speed as well as sensor size.
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Jan 22, 2018 08:41:25   #
mleuck wrote:
Nikon 200-500 without question.

I concur. Focuses faster. Very sharp. I owned both.
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Jan 21, 2018 12:02:05   #
AHollar wrote:
I can't seem to get my camera tethered to my computer. I have the right cable which seems to connect right, but when I click the shutter, it refuses to take a picture and says "Busy". Any help would bee appreciated!

What software are you using?
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