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Jul 21, 2020 08:57:00   #
There is a difference between abbreviations and acronyms.
Check it out.
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Jul 16, 2020 17:31:24   #
Bears do go out on the rain to eat. Otherwise no problems.
Seriously that time of the year they are fattening up for winter.
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Jul 11, 2020 20:29:08   #
Torment, nice lens but more than I need.
Thanks
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Jul 11, 2020 17:14:23   #
Thank you AM foto 1
That was an excellent book you wrote. I will save it.
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Jul 11, 2020 09:32:30   #
usnret wrote:
When you say wildlife, do you mean the critters in your backyard or those on the Atlanta zoo or closeups of more distant creatures? For the latter you need lenses with focal lengths a fair bit beyond what 300 can deliver.

Zoo, backyard. Not going for mountain goats.
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Jul 10, 2020 19:22:09   #
CHG_CANON wrote:
If you find 250mm too short for wildlife, increasing to just 300mm will not make a difference as 300mm also is too short for 'wildlife'. The simplicity of one superzoom delivers only simplicity, not image quality. If wildlife is an interest, consider a lens specific to this need, not a do-it-all lens that fails for wildlife. Your best bet is the EF 100-400L II, although this lens is large and heavy and expensive. With your 80D, you can extend for an effective 560mm. If still interested in a more modestly priced superzoom, look instead at the Tamron 18-400.
If you find 250mm too short for wildlife, increasi... (show quote)


I was thinking about that one as well, 18-400
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Jul 10, 2020 18:11:16   #
I have done a lot of research, but still not sure what the best choice is.
I shoot with a Canon 80d. I have prime 24mm and 50mm. Those are my street lenses. I also have the kit 18-55 mm, newer version.
And the Lenses I am thinking of trading. Canon 18-200mm 3.5. Canon 55-250mm kit lens.
All are EFS. Majority of my photography are wildlife and landscapes in the Atlanta area. There are many times that the 250mm max is not enough.
I am thinking of trading the two larger zoom lenses for the Tamron 16- 300 Pzd Macro Lens.
That way I would carry one lens, 16-300 for my normal walking days. But still have my two primes, and 18-55 for street.

I also have a Sony @6000 with a couple of lenses for travel.
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Jul 2, 2020 09:01:57   #
Great comments
Thanks
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Jul 1, 2020 19:54:35   #
a6k wrote:
I see two things that prompt me to suggest that you include the a6500 in your list.

1. non-Sony lenses that (?) may not be stabilized
2. the a6500 has in-camera stabilization that works even better with e-lenses but helps a lot with legacy and other lenses.

Just my 2ยข.

Good idea
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Jul 1, 2020 18:18:06   #
I really love my Sony a6000, and want to get another 6*** . I am familiar with the use and menus. It is easy to carry, I have several batteries and a couple of e-mount lenses. I have several Canon EFS and FD lenses that I have been using with converters to the a6000.
Not interested in FF.
Options, a6100, 6300 and a6400.
I shoot landscape/wildlife and street.
Probably will carry both cameras with different setups.
The a6400 looks good. Any recommendations.
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Jun 19, 2020 14:42:05   #
eugenehinds wrote:
Personally I would not touch one of these high dollar carbon fiber bikes. The old reliable crmo or mangmoly steel frames will last pretty much as long as you will and cost less money. Most important is getting the one which fits you. As for where to ride, local bike clubs have maps identifying less traveled back roads. A good clue is to find a road which parallels a freeway. Most of the high speed traffic will be on the freeway and you will be contending only with locals who are trying to get to the freeway. Some of the byways will be rough and hilly but if you're a photographer this is where you'll find the most photo opps such as old houses, barns, churches and off the beaten path scenery.
Personally I would not touch one of these high dol... (show quote)


Different frames allow for different uses of ride. Carbon frames are very light and very stiff. Racers and triatheletes prefer them for their instant response. Aluminum is generally a stiff frame, less than a Carbon. Steel, is softer, gentler ride. The components on the bike, brakes, cassette, pedals, can be very expensive. Wheels are a high price item on the top carbon bikes. Less weight, less inertia. Trust me, riding up a 6 degree hill can be tough with a heavier wheel and tire.
In any event it is all about your use, pocketbook. I have seen folks purchase the less than 18 pound bike, only to add water bottle cages, bags and chains and locks. And you are correct, fit is most important. That's where a bike shop that knows what they are doing is all important.
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Jun 19, 2020 14:33:56   #
jerryc41 wrote:
I'm not shopping for one, but I thought I'd stop and look out of nostalgia.

EDIT: Now the pages are full of ads for bikes.

NOt where I live. Cycling has gotten popular again.
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Jun 19, 2020 10:34:32   #
[quote=eugenehinds]I have ridden over 200 miles in one day and the bike I used was a Raleigh Super Course which I got for less than $300. This was in the 70s. A similar bike would be around $1100 today. Most important is the fit which makes your arms and legs the perfect length. On a properly fitted bike the long downhill coast will rest you as your easy chair at home. The Super Course had a Reynolds 531 steel frame with a longish wheelbase and was comfortable. If I bought a new bike the new saddle went into the trash can and my old leather Brooks went onto the new bike. I did finish #2 in state championship one year but not on the Raleigh but on a Puch racing bike with sew up tires.[/quote
That was great bike. My favorite bikes were the Reynolds Chrome moly steel.
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Jun 19, 2020 08:39:18   #
Actually normal people, whatever that means, shop at small, locally owned bike shops, where they can get a bike that fits, is not junk, and serves the needs of the consumer.
I have probably purchased 20 bikes in my life all from bike shops. I took up cycling as a hobby and activity some 30 years ago. I will be 79 in September and unfortunately had to stop cycling a couple of years ago for medical reasons.
I rode mainly road bikes, but having lived in CO for several years, mountain bikes also.
I did a lot of charity weekend rides, did the MS 150. Rode on average 30 miles/day, about five days a week. Rode hills and mountains.
I never spent more than $1800 on a roadie, and $1000, for a mtn. Sure I could have spent a lot more, but one reaches the law of diminishing returns, save a few ounces of bike weight? Not at my level did I need to save a few minutes.
When you see those prices, they are what the pros and semi pros buy.
I would never purchase a bike at the box stores. Most of them are junk, heavy steel bikes that rust and break.
They do the job like a pinhole camera would, not like a good DSLR.
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Jun 11, 2020 18:19:53   #
Fayle wrote:
I use Smugmug and I'm happy with it. It's affordable and my photos are protected from downloading. It does have a bit of a learning curve but overall's user friendly.
You can see my site here:
https://www.fayledvisionphotography.com

Nice website.
So who sets the price of the prints and who does the printing?
Thanks
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