What you're saying seems sort of odd as no one else that I know or have heard from, including me, has this issue. I would think we'd all be hearing about this if it were a program-wide issue. Some of the people at Adobe sometimes seem to be less than helpful, I'm not knocking them as I've always gotten someone with good knowledge.

I don't think AI will replace human judges. In any competition there are many images that get thrown out of the competition, and most of the time all judges agree on these images. What is left in the competition is a number of images that are decent, well-composed, and shot with good choices by the photographer. Some may be more or less creative (creative being a broad term) but all are "sound" images. Judges will then use their own beliefs to find the best of the lot, and, yes, the process is biased, as is most of life since we are humans. I've entered many local and regional competitions and won prizes in a large majority of them and I have also judged competitions. I think a lot of photographers who "put down" competitions are those who have not been successful in a competition. Getting better, better being given a wide latitude of interpretation, in photography takes an open and accepting mind, although that is not the goal of many photographers. Set your own goals and if entering a competition is not part of your goal that is perfectly fine, but many photographers do want to enter and do learn from doing so, even if they don't agree with the judges.

Are you reading the 913 page reference guide?

(Download)

In manual mode EC changes ISO.

You can simply export the image from the LrC export dialog box as a JPEG image, setting an appropriate file size for the print you desire. Determine the size print you want and then multiply each side by 300 (most print houses use 300 ppi for a file as a base setting for printing). Whatever number you get from the multiplication, that tells you the pixel size of the file that is needed. Export using the "long edge" as that will be the larger number. Example: if the print you want is 10 x 15 (a common digital size) then 10 x 300 = 3000: 15 x 300 = 4500. Your image file, to obtain a print with a 1:1 ratio, is 3000 x 4500. There is some leeway in this depending upon the quality of your image file.

I can only talk about LrC as that is my main processing software and has been for over 10 years.
• How transferred from camera: using a card reader, directly from camera...your choice (I use a card reader).
• Accessed/Stored: Photos are stored on your computer in whatever system you choose or external drive and when you "import" images into LrC you are only linking the image to the software, the images are kept separately where you have stored them. (I use external drives).
• Edited: You access an image folder from within LrC and perform edits of your choice. All edits are kept as metadata that is stored within the program. The program also contains a database that allows you to use keywords and other text to locate images quickly and easily. The original image is not changed as the metadata simply "layers" over the image in the preview you see. The metadata is only fixed onto the image upon exporting the image.

Other things to consider...
- You actually get seven programs within one software package: Library Module, Develop Module, Print Module, Web Module, Map Module, Book Module, Slideshow Module. I often use these various modules and always print from LrC. In addition the Adobe package allows you to access hundreds of fonts to download for free and provides additional software programs like Photoshop and Adobe Express.
- The database contained within the application is excellent for finding images quickly via key word, file name, type of equipment, shooting data, and on and on.
- It's easy to use other software plug-ins while keeping all images in one application, LrC, when completed.

And so on...many good reasons to use LrC. I do think that all current software does a pretty good job with providing processing choices but LrC goes beyond that.

Hi. If you are interested in learning how to photograph wildlife you might want to follow Steve Perry and get some of his e-publications. He is an excellent and knowledgeable wildlife photographer. In California there is also a photo tour guide leader named Brent Paull who is also a good photographer and wildlife teacher.

Thanks everyone!

Taken in Bosque del Apache or Ladd S. Gordon Waterfowl Complex near Socorro, New Mexico, in December.

Rent one, I've often used borrow lenses.com. They don't want to see your trip ruined when your one and only camera stops working. Listen to them.

This is standard. It simply means you need to use unzip software to open it. It creates no issues.

Another option, outside of LrC, which I use often is the FREE program called PhotoScapeX. You export the image, pop it into PhotoScapeX, use the borders option and you have many choices. You can send it out to wherever you want and/or simply import into LrC as a second copy.

If you want to do it in LrC, I only know how to do it from the print module. Then use the Export as a JPEG option. You can then import that back into LrC if you want to keep it.

You can also decrease the size of the image in the Develop>Transform panel and this produces a white border around the image but you may lack control of the border size and it does reduce the size of the original image.

When I do a pano I use the camera in a vertical position and overlap by about 1/4, taking as many shots as needed, more overlapping is better than less, and staring wide and ending wide on each side. I let LrC pull them together. I look for flaws in how it got stitched and correct any in PS. This can be done hand held or on a tripod, but the images need to be taken by a steady hand. This has worked for me many times.

This shot was taken with a very long, long lens as you can see the very narrow field of vision around the surfer. Long lenses distort distance, they compress it, and the surfer was fairly far away from the shark.

Showing us the image you are using would be helpful. If the image has a lot of stuff going on in it that would be difficult for the application to choose what you are asking it to do. Masking works very well immediately if the subject is more isolated. If the masking does go over or under what you want simply choose add or delete in the mask area you are working with and choose brush, then go over the areas you need to fix.