I am not very computer literate. I struggle with post camera processing. I normally shoot Raw images and process them using Aurora HDR and Picassa. Here's my problem. When I process an image so that it looks good on my pc screen it shows much more contrast when viewed on my large screen tv. It also look different when it is printed. I print larger prints, up to 30x40 inches. Is there any way to resolve this problem so that what I see on my pc screen is what I see on my large tv and the final print?

I wanted to start a topic on the heels of today's topic concerning adapting old manual focus lenses on our mirrorless cameras. Which lenses are you using on your Mirrorless that you like the most, and why? I figured that it might be a great, first hand resource for so many of us that use, and maybe even prefer manual focus lenses and maybe just don't have the funds for the $1200-$2000 lenses out today. I myself have a 50mm f1.7 Konica and a 24mm Vivitar f2.8. Both cost me under $60 and are terrific! Right now, for example I'm interested in a 200mm or maybe a 300mm. So let us know what legacy glass you are using, how you like it, and maybe we'll have a great resource we can all utilize. Thanks Hoggers!

After the rain this morning sashayed out to the Vero Reclamation ponds to see if there were any new critters and....lots of humidity, summer is definitely here. Just the old standbys and a few of them. These wetlands are now becoming totally over grown with cattails and reeds, with minimal open water and of course, loaded with Florida's state insect, the Fire Ant.

Anyway a nice walk and there were still some birds enjoying themselves in the morning humidity, bathing, preening, having snails and other snacks. All the photos are SOOC jpeg's with only cropping done, no processing. Download/double download is recommended.

I’ve been using SLRs for almost 50 years, starting with a match-needle Canon where you had to stop down the aperture to get the right exposure...typically set the nominal shutter speed for the day and tweaked aperture for the shot...unless something went wrong. Oh yeah, and manual focus...and I usually only used Ektachrome 200, so the ISO setting never got touched.

For the last 15 years...yes...I’ve been shooting Auto. For the most part, it actually worked fine. But I knew what to adjust if necessary, and I really concentrated on composition. ISO was usually fixed at 200 or 400.

All this to say...wow...since I got the Nikkor 200-500 f/5.6, it’s been a roller coaster of learning. Shutter priority all the way, EV tweaking, learning my tripod and heads inside out. Pushing ISO to 1000 and worrying about noise. A whole new set of learning and challenges.

I have been a 35 mm amateur photographer since the 1960's using Nikon cameras and lenses. I've noticed the new Z cameras from Nikon that are mirrorless. I don't understand what the benefit is with this innovation. SLR means that you see through the viewfinder basically what the film (now the sensor) sees, which is made possible by the mirror. Is there no viewfinder view with these cameras? Or is the viewfinder given a view provided by the sensor, which is what the compact or point-and-shoot cameras do? Thanks for any feedback.

My health issues have basically killed my photography. It's been over a year since I took a photograph with my 'proper' gear... At some point, I will see about selling some of the camera stuff, but that isn't my current worry. I have had the Adobe 'photographers package' right from the very beginning, but I really do not need to be paying every month for it any more. I know it's not a lot, but it now seems to be a waste.

My biggest concern is, what happens to my existing collection of photos, if I quit the subscription? Not storage - they are all on my PC, not in the cloud. I have thousands of photos, mostly CR2 or dng formats.

Will I be able to still access them if needed, once I cut the cord with Adobe?

Thanks in advance.

I just acquired a mint Nikon D200 with all the extras, battery, charger, original print manuals, original box, etc. and as it turns out, one big, big problem - the battery will not fully enter the battery chamber. It is the correct Nikon EN-EL3a battery as specified in the manual. It will go into the chamber until only about 1/8" is still outside and will go no further. Looking into the chamber with a very bright light I can see no foreign matter that would block the battery and there seems to be no latch or button that needs to be activated to allow full entrance. The manual does not treat this problem so I am at a loss as to how to proceed. If anyone has had this problem with a D200 I would appreciate your advising me as to what the problem is and how to correct it.