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Feb 3, 2015 23:34:35   #
SonnyE wrote:
My drop would be the Morning Meanderings.
But I don't know enough about the requirements.

My first thought was a Lion Fish. But it's a guess.



definitely a lion fish - probably a volitans
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Jan 3, 2015 23:23:19   #
Camlane wrote:
The fact that that stipulation is printed on the ticket and you enter is implied consent.




But is it implied consent if you get the information on the back of the ticket after you put down your money - not prior?

Also, what is the consent if the back of ticket is never read?

I don't see how Longwood can say that you gave consent if they haven't verified notification.
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Dec 3, 2014 23:26:36   #
speters wrote:
Those discounts are usually meant to be used in classes (for teachers that teach Photoshop in class, or for students that learn Photoshop in class).


My experience differs with the student/faculty version.

The information provided by B&H said that I would be required to submit a copy of a valid ID. Registration did not even ask for this information. At no time was there mention of the programs (Light Room and Photoshop) being for school use. Just the full programs at a discount.

My thought at the time was that something got messed up in the registration. I never heard that it was necessary for the programs to be for classroom use. If that were the case, it is hard to understand a perpetual license on this version.
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Nov 21, 2014 09:32:11   #
I believe that there are already too many sections and there is unnecessary fragmentation. With that said, I think there would be enough interest and participation to justify the addition of wedding photography. I fully support the idea.
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Oct 11, 2014 22:20:35   #
Rongnongno wrote:
The picture is basically monochrome...

The histogram is weird...
- R, G and B are nearly identical (monochrome effect I assume)
- Spikes in R, G and B are not justified at all.

Any idea?


Yes, this image is nearly monochrome. In such an image (gray), I would expect the R, G and B channels to be essentially equal. They are.

In a high tone image, I would expect these peaks to be further to the right and in a lower tone, I would expect them to be further to the left.

Equal components would yield essentially a neutral gray which is close to what we have here. The histogram is exactly what should be expected for this image.

Not at all weird.
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Oct 6, 2014 23:57:49   #
SharpShooter wrote:
Bobby, the best criteria is that you have very strong contrast existing in-camera when you take the shot. The less mid-tones you capture the better the conversion will be no matter HOW you convert it. Your histogram should be heavily to each side with as little as possible in the middle.
B&W, is about black and white. If there is NO black, or NO white in your shot, all you have are mid-tones which become shades of grey and have a somewhat of a muddy look to them. You can of course PP the beegeebies out of the shot and actually try to create the contrast in post.
Google "Noir Photography" to get an ideas of what kind of contrasts you are aiming for. Good luck ;-)
SS
Bobby, the best criteria is that you have very str... (show quote)



You are describing a high contrast image. Is it not true that all images do not present best with high (harsh) contrast, but some do with intermediate tones? I ask that you consider something like a young woman (or a young child) with a gentle, soft skeletal structure and soft looking skin - why would you find it necessarily to portray her with high contrast?

The ability to create high contrast is only one of the options with Black and White. Why discount the intermediate grays which are also black and white. It seems as there are many instances on this forum where the terms gray scale and black and white are used interchangeably.

With 256 tones, how many are black and how many are white?
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Aug 28, 2014 10:43:00   #
Stef C wrote:
Would there be any interest in starting an eBay deals, or board/thread regarding that.

I look pretty much every day and come across some really good deals. Some i'm not interested in, but many here may be.

I know we have the links section, but who really goes there? Maybe it could be an ongoing thread for people to check..?



I think you have a great Idea. You are at least the 2nd person this week who wants to start a new section. If my count is correct, there are already 24 ideas that have been started.

I myself haven't decided if we should have more specialty sections, or should cull some that we have and make others more general.

I am awaiting the responses of those who have a great overall, organizational concept.
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Aug 27, 2014 10:31:23   #
I see over exposure on the rims, not glare.

Metals, to my understanding, do not polarize light; if the light is not polarized, a cpl will will not have glare to effect. A CPL, however, will reduce reduce overall light to both under exposed and over exposed areas in a fairly consistent fashion.

Bottom line is that a polarizing filter, in this situation, will be ineffective. Softer light would result in a better capture. Just because one has good equipment does not mean that every image can be captured at any time. This situation is where skill or not tripping the shutter comes into play.
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Aug 26, 2014 23:12:25   #
Looking back at my collection of images made me realize that I am never finished. Nothing is ever final - even after I have printed. I merely achieve a hiatus - a temporary place for reconsiderations. At times I look at a final image and start all over again. Post processing is just that - a process.

Why would you bother to save a raw file if there were no intention to go back and have another look?
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Aug 26, 2014 22:43:02   #
Rongnongno wrote:
If I recall correctly this is based on human vision.


I believe that your previous post was referring to the Bayer array, named after a Kodak scientist. Here is a simple article that explains the RGBG and helps explain why the Nikon 36 megapixel cameras exhibit moiere.


http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/camera-sensors.htm

Hope it is helpful.
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Aug 26, 2014 12:01:48   #
wj cody wrote:
if you even have to bother with the existance of a histogram on your digital imaging device, you obviously don't know how to make an exposure!



For most of most on this planet, that is absurd. Perhaps for you and some others, there is some validity.
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Aug 25, 2014 12:21:23   #
Let us try one more time to get this issue straight.

If one changes either aperture or shutter speed, the amount of exposure changes. Under this scenerio, it would become necessary to change the ISO (sensitivity) to keep the exposure constant.

If the ISO is increased, there is a tendency for more noise. More noise results in less contrast. Less contrast results in images that are less sharp. The principle holds, although somewhat negated by more current sensors.
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Aug 25, 2014 11:33:07   #
rpavich wrote:
I'd say that your best bet is to expose correctly.

If the subject is such that you cannot squeeze the dynamic range of the subject into one shot, then that's another subject entirely.

No matter what you choose to shoot, you have to think about where to place the exposure for the intended effect and whether it will fit into one exposure.

Heck...it doesn't always HAVE to fit into one exposure, blowing out something on purpose is valid also....letting something go completely black is also valid if that's what you're going for.

I try and expose correctly but if I'm going to err...it will be to underexpose slightly; the colors look better to me that way.
I'd say that your best bet is to expose correctly.... (show quote)



I think you got it right. It is not all about shooting to the right or about under exposing. It isn't all about the shadow areas either. I am a huge proponent of ETTR, but it is not always the best solution, even if it may provide the most information for post processing. It is about exposing for the best final result - and for this mileage may vary.

For a single exposure, there may no be enough dynamic range and you may be forced to block those shadows more than desired and you may be forced into more blown highlights than you desire.

Sometimes the best choice is just not to trip the shutter and walk away.
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Aug 25, 2014 11:16:53   #
Rongnongno wrote:
Histograms are created AFTER a picture is taken. It is a result, not a prediction.



You are, of course, correct.

Would you be so kind as to explain this to Nikon so that they may correct their usage of the term.

I would quote you, but they may not have heard of Rongnongno and his expertise in linguistics and digital.
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Aug 14, 2014 21:33:41   #
William Royer wrote:
I am aware that this is a photography forum. However, am fascinated by this moth-like thing in my garden. Here's an image of it apparently taking nectar from a flower, which I'd like to enlarge and exhibit. Have searched the web to try to identify critter, but haven't found anything very similar in terms of coloring, shape, head shape, and eyes. Can anyone here that can shed some light? If useful, location of this is in high plains of western Kansas. Thank you.


I believe it is called a hummingbird moth. I have only seen them in a prairie in northwestern Pennsylvania.
By description, a ranger told me what it was.
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