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Jul 30, 2014 16:04:47   #
fotohouse wrote:
4) After that pictures at one stop increments in adjustment to the aperture and adjust the shutter speed back to zero.

Sorry for the typo, 4 should read:

4) After that picture, adjust the aperture at one stop increments and then use the shutter speed adjustment to meter back to zero.

Doing this will show the different DOF you will get at each aperture, that way one can learn to use the DOF, to isolate the subject from the background. Also distance from the subject and focal length can effect the DOF for a given scene.

Most people just pick up the camera, focus, and shoot. Aperture can be used to isolate the subject and shutter speed can be used to capture movement or to freeze it depending on what you are trying to do.
4) After that pictures at one stop increments in a... (show quote)


Thank you so much for taking the time to clarify the point. I am really trying to learn and really appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks, Bob
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Jul 30, 2014 11:54:35   #
fotohouse wrote:
My advice would be to just get your camera out and play with it. With digital it is free and you get instant feedback. Do a study on some subject in or just outside your home, no flash, and put your camera on manual mode M. Do not zoom the lens and use a tripod if you have one.

1) Use the meter scale, should be on the bottom of the viewfinder and probably looks like ( <-3..2..1..0..1..2..3+> ) or something similar.

2) Set you aperture at 3.5 (or its largest setting (smallest number)).

3) Then adjust the Shutter setting until you get the meter to zero.

4) After that pictures at one stop increments in adjustment to the aperture and adjust the shutter speed back to zero.

I like to have people do this with a series of objects sitting on a table in a row going away from the camera, as you make the adjustments you will see how the aperture effects what is in focus (this is your depth of field refered to as DOF).

Do this, take some pictures, post a few here and next lesson will be on shutter speed settings.

Now, I would stay in auto for a while when taking pics of the grand kids, they are to precious to miss a shot as you learn how to improve your photography.
My advice would be to just get your camera out and... (show quote)


I need help understanding #4.
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Jul 29, 2014 09:13:12   #
Do I need to remove my UV filter when I want to use the polarizing filter or can they be used together?
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Jul 28, 2014 08:01:18   #
boberic wrote:
Am I better off with a flash drive or an external hard drive for storage and or computer crash loss of photos, Only have less than 500 photos to store. All advice appreciated


Check out http://www.carbonite.com/. Peace of mind: priceless!
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Jul 24, 2014 13:25:40   #
doduce wrote:
Could be, but it's very likely all or mostly about Adobe's bottom line. Is the company willing to give up PSE and its customer base--as well as the photographers that use only some very specific parts of PS or CC--by adding some missing capabilities, such as working with layers, to LR. Maybe, but I don't think I'm feeling it. :)


Would you choose which child to keep and which one to let go? Adobe probably feels the same even if they were to ignore the sales. There will always be a market for the "full PS" package by creative artists worldwide as well as a market for the less complicated versions for us hobbyists. It's great to have a choice. 8-)
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Jul 24, 2014 09:51:57   #
[quote=zincgt]Microsoft site has free RAW viewer for Explorer. Views RAW files and keeps them in own folder. You can then convert to TIFF, or .jpg and compare difference in same folder view.[/quote

Can you provide the link? Thanks, Bob
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Jul 24, 2014 08:01:31   #
Edcase wrote:
I have just received a copy of Lightroom to replace Aparture eventually. I am
Having a bit of trouble getting started. Any leads on an "easy way" to get into it???


Try Adobe TV:

http://tv.adobe.com/product/lightroom/show/featured/

Thanks, Bob
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Jul 24, 2014 07:56:06   #
romanticf16 wrote:
Buy Kelby's book on Lightroom and study your options. There should be no need to produce a TIFF of each image, as LR will always keep your original RAW file untouched. You only designate either TIFF or jpeg as a file when exporting a image, along with size, # of pixels, etc. The book explains all the choices clearly, and why to make each of them.


Just to be sure I understand, when you say "as LR will always keep your original RAW file untouched" you really mean the DNG, correct? As far as I know, the original RAW files are deleted when I return the SD card to my camera and format it. Is it possible for Lightroom to "spit out" the DNG copies that were imported as the original RAW? That would be good to know just in case. Thanks, Bob
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Jul 24, 2014 07:49:07   #
Linda From Maine wrote:
With extreme gratitude to all those on UHH who helped me see the light!

From left to right:

1. jpg straight from camera

2. raw image with initial edits in PSE 12 ACR. Look, there are sun rays in the fog!

3. my final interpretation of the scene, with help from Nik Viveza and Nik Color Efex


Welcome aboard!
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Jul 24, 2014 07:44:27   #
Tsadeeq wrote:
I have used Adobe Photoshop 7 for many years now, but I believe the time has come to use a newer product. Unfortunately, Adobe do not provide any telephone customer service for most of their products and I have no idea what to choose that will allow me similar utilities to those of Photoshop 7. I have been thinking about a new version of Photoshop, Lightroom, Photoshop Elements 12, Photoshop CC or one of the other many Adobe products. However, I am completely confused and on a limited budget. I do not need or want the Cloud service(s), but I do need some help and advice on what product or products to choose. PLEASE!
I have used Adobe Photoshop 7 for many years now, ... (show quote)


My vote is for Lightroom 5, hands down. There is a learning curve but not quite as steep as Photo Shop Elements 12 (I have both). There are some things that Lightroom 5 cannot do (if not there would be no market for Adobe's other product PSE 12) but Lightroom 5 can handle MOST of what you want to do. And if you can only have one, have LIghtroom 5. Everyone has their favorites for post processing, but that's my 2ยข worth. Thanks, Bob
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Jul 24, 2014 07:37:46   #
kubota king wrote:
I leave mine on as long as it doesn't show in the photo . I had a couple of occasions where I had to take it off even outside because the corners showed when I took a photo for some reason . But that only has happened 2 or 3 times over the yrs. Tommy


I had this identical problem and took my camera back to the store where I purchased it. I left it with them because they couldn't get it to fail. They kept taking lots of sample shots and finally arrived at the answer by screwing the lens hood on just a little crooked. Voila-they were able to reproduce the problem exactly! From then on, I just make sure everything is lined up correctly as I screw on the lens hood and haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps. Thanks, Bob
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Jul 23, 2014 08:14:51   #
Wow-love the detail and clarity-great shot! I hope you got out safely! :thumbup:
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Jul 23, 2014 08:11:32   #
My camera shop recommended the Sigma 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DC Macro OS and I love it. I bought it to shoot on my new Nikon D5200 with great results. When the suggestion was made it was because Sigma was lighter and cheaper than the equivalent Nikon lens. See more detail at:

http://www.sigmaphoto.com/product/18-250mm-f35-63-dc-os-macro-hsm

Looks like it has just been reduced by $200. MSRP: $800.00,
Price: $549.00*(I paid a year or so ago), New Price: $349.00 (shown on the website with a $200 rebate-authorized dealers may vary).


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Jul 20, 2014 12:50:37   #
The great responses I have received from you are spot-on and greatly appreciated. Once again I find that I have been searching for something that does not exist. Okay now, which way to the Fountain of Youth? :lol: :thumbup:
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Jul 20, 2014 08:40:51   #
I purchased this book on the recommendation of many of you on UHH, but I need help understanding the chapter on Storytelling Apertures. Here is the paragraph I can't wrap my mind around:

"But what we do have are distance settings. The distance settings are similar to the depth-of-field scale in that they allow you to preset the depth of field before you take your shot. And since every storytelling composition relies on the maximum depth of field, you would first choose to set you aperture to f/22 and then align the distance above your distance-setting mark on the lens. Your focal length will determine which distance you choose."

Huh? I got as far as setting my aperture at f/22 and then stalled. What is Brian talking about? Attached is a picture from the top of my camera (Nikon D5200 w/ Sigma 18-250mm 1:3.5-6.3). Is Brian talking about that white dot way at the front of the lens? Or is he talking about one of the two notches on the barrel further back. Also, should I be in Manual or Aperture mode?

I want to do the exercises so I learn the lessons, but I need help understanding the instructions. Thanks, Bob


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