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Jan 23, 2014 14:28:08   #
Bob Yankle wrote:
Digital imagery, maybe, photography not. Photographers would have to do a lot of work to get in position for a shot like this, and know their camera settings quite well.


i agree absolutely. digital image makers have eroded the credibility of all images by intense manipulation. it used to be a picture was worth a thousand words. the billions of images out there are now work nothing, as a result.
and everyone wonders why i still use black and white film.
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Jan 23, 2014 14:25:07   #
imagemeister wrote:
I have used the 120-400 it is just OK - if you are not at all fussy- there are many better options...


i believe it is important to remember anything past 300mm suddenly becomes dependent on the atmosphere. it may be wiser to choose a manual focusing 400 or 500mm prime lens and invest in a really sturdy tripod (i recommend wood) and some very good haze filters (schott or schneider glass).
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Jan 23, 2014 14:21:39   #
Photopix6 wrote:
Since I need it mostly for portraits and photographing band,what I have should work ok. What do you think about adapting medium format lenses to digital cameras. Say, a Hasselblad lens to a Nikon D800. A friend of mine did just that but I haven't heard of the results yet


the results will be problematic. zeiss (and schneider) optimise their lenses for medium (roll film) format. if you need the zeiss optics, they are available as manual focusing lenses for dslrs, and would provide much better results.
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Jan 23, 2014 14:18:06   #
SharpShooter wrote:
Tom, welcome to the Hog.
I don't know anything about Nikon lenses.
But what is a Canon 50mm f1.54"G" lens?
Even if all your manual lenses DO work, why would anybody shoot Sports manually? Yes, I know that some shots can ONLY be shot on manual. Yes, I too shot some sports in the old manual days. When EOS came out, I went kicking and screaming very loudly, but that was a long time ago, in a land, far, far away. A guy with a cheap little Canon Rebel will out-shoot you at the baseball games. Just my puny opinion. ;-)
Good luck

i'm hurt, you've gotten lazy!!!
SS
Tom, welcome to the Hog. br I don't know anything... (show quote)


:)
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Jan 23, 2014 14:12:28   #
teresad679 wrote:
I'm using PS Elements 11 and would like to PS a person into an image but in the background. I can PS a person in the foreground how do I get them into the background, say standing behind a person sitting?

Thanks!
Terri


does not such a substantial editing of an image bring up the question of ethics, or are most people desensitised to this.
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Jan 23, 2014 14:03:57   #
JC56 wrote:
when photographing moving objects it's all about FOCUS I don't care if you focus on the eyes or the ass. If your focus is off or blurry hit the delete button...... no amount of pp will help.....now how do you achieve that tack sharp focus.

1. use a 1000lb tripod...there heavy but stable.
2. use a very fast prime lens....there expensive but if you hit the lotto who cares.
3. buy a canon camera.........their focus system is second to none....and only a couple of bucks more.

let's go back to your original concern. for critical focus, and camera and lens brand really doesn't enter into it here, you want to manually focus.
now, some folks will say the action happens too fast. this is really a red herring. knowing your subject. studying the game, competition, whatever, will allow you to place yourself where your subject(s) are most likely to be and where activity hits its peak. Cartier Bresson called it "the decisive moment". for his images he used a leica rangefinder camera with a 35mm f2 summicron. sports photographers, in my youth, used 5x4 speed grahpics, and were not disadvantaged by their equipment. they knew their camera and knew their subject matter. and there really is no substitute for that.

I'm a pentax owner but it seems to me that canons lock focus and hold it much better than other brands.

I may be wrong....... opinions are welcome
when photographing moving objects it's all about F... (show quote)
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Jan 23, 2014 13:55:53   #
mosbenav wrote:
I spent hours on buses today for a round trip to Jerusalem and I took over 300 shots.

What I want know from you people with big bucks invested in your photo equipment: what do you do in crowds? What do you do when there are teenagers everywhere and they all seem to be looking at your stuff? What if all of a sudden it gets very tight (too many people in a small place) and you've got the most to lose? And what do you do when they start running in all directions, making tremendous amounts of noise?

plain old black camera strap. rangefinder camera with name taped over in black. 35mm lens is perfect for using close up. one camera body, one lens, both insured. the faddish dslr with the 28-200mm lens is terribly out of place in such a situation. dress in gray or brown - dark neutral colours. nothing fancy. do not draw attention to yourself, whatever you do. if no one is wearing a jacket or hat, then don't wear one either. blend in and look like everyone else.

I never had expensive camera equipment before? What do you do?
I spent hours on buses today for a round trip to J... (show quote)
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Jan 23, 2014 13:51:13   #
r.reeder wrote:
Perhaps someone out there in the ether can point me in the right direction. Not long ago I tried some Arista ASA400 120 film & I had a difficult time threading it onto the reel to develop. The film base was very thin & flimsy, & it was like trying to feed cellophane onto the reel. Well, not that bad, but you get the picture. Does anybody know of a B/W film, ASA100, both 35mm & 120, that has a film base that would be similar to Kodak Plus-X film? (I use older cameras & the higher speed films are not suitable.) Thanks.
Perhaps someone out there in the ether can point m... (show quote)


i'd call the folks at freestylephoto.com, they will be able to advise you of many other 120 roll film brands out there and their characteristics. the phone number is 1-800-292-6137.
good luck!
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Jan 23, 2014 13:49:00   #
kshaffer wrote:
Sorry, if this has been covered, but I'd like to know something... On the dxomark website comparing the Canon 70d (overall score 68), Nikon D7100(overall score 83) and Sony a77(overall score 78) with of course separate categories for portrait, landscape and sports.
The Canon comes in with the lowest score in all the categories, but yet, Canon is a very popular brand. Are the ratings on there as drastic as they seem? Or are these differences that are even perceptible to the human eye?


since most digital are using aps sized sensors, it's really imaterial
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Jan 23, 2014 13:46:44   #
Ace and Deuce wrote:
I'm not bashing, but it just seems like b&w is the fad of the year already. I see many pics that I wish were in color, or that I feel don't 'need' the b&w treatment. I can understand if you're going for an old photo look, or your subject is something that is, or can be interpreted as an older item (Like an antique), but most of the time it just seems unnecessary to me.

Again, I'm not bashing anyone, I'm just asking why so many people are converting pics to black and white. What do you see in your pic that makes you say "It needs to be converted to B&W"? This is an honest question, not sarcasm or meant in a derogatory way.

Thanks for your time,

~Ace
I'm not bashing, but it just seems like b&w is... (show quote)


well, you just knew i was going to weigh in on this one!

black and white photography is not and never has been a fad. underneath all the digital industry advertising and propaganda, we black and white photographers have continued to do what we've always have; make black and white pictures. do i also use colour film? yes, when the situation warrants. does that happen often? no.
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Jan 23, 2014 13:42:05   #
PVR8 wrote:
I have a Nikon D70 camera that I used for a back up to my D200. I put a bad memory card in the camera and broke some pins in the reader. The camera now gets the CHA error message because it needs a new card reader. The camera has less than 3K actuations. It's a great little back up camera but it doesn't have high value now because of its age. I would like to get it fixed. Nikon factory repair is totally outrageous in cost and turn around time. If anyone knows of a place that could repair it for a reasonable fee, I will get it fixed. Thanks for any leads.
I have a Nikon D70 camera that I used for a back u... (show quote)


okay,...here we go. some of the pins in the camera body serve as grounding pins. it is possible, and admittedly a risk, to remove one or two of those and replace them in the slots where the other pins are damaged.
in order to do this, you will need the service manual for your camera. or...you might want to speak with a local tech about this.
hope this is of some assistance to you.
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Jan 20, 2014 08:46:17   #
houdel wrote:
Gossen Luna Pro SBC, an oldie but a goody. I still shoot a lot of film. It is a necessity with my Mamiya RB67 which does not have a meter and I also use it to double check the meter in my 35mm camera to avoid wasting film. Sometimes used with my digital camera in difficult lighting situations, although I am more likely to take a test shot with my digital camera and use the histogram to refine the settings on my film cameras.


good grief, another mamiya 67 user! hi there! i agree completely with you. i use a gossen lunapro, ultrapro and pentax spot meter. only the ultrapro is digital. the others are analog as i like to have the advantage of seeing other possible combinations of exposure. it should be noted the gossen luna pros will meter to 8 hours. i've used the long exposure times often, especially with the mamiya and hasselblad, to obtain great photos in difficult situations. the truth of "on board" camera meters is they cannot cover the range of an instrument specifically designed to measure light and dark.

besides, it takes longer to make a picture and that's all to the good!
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Jan 20, 2014 08:31:48   #
Mogul wrote:
For the most part, a true statement, although it may be a little out of historical context.

"In manufacturing the "Hansa Canon," Nippon Kogaku was responsible for the lens, the lens mount, the optical system of viewfinder and the rangefinder mechanism, while Precision Optical Instruments Laboratory was responsible for the main body including the focal-plane-shutter, the rangefinder cover as well as the assembly of the camera body." (Citation available on request)

and these days, worth a ton o money. also, for the early zenza bronicas, nikon made all the lenses. later on, komura and finally zenzanon were making lenses for those cameras. that would include the s, c, s2, s2a, ec and ectl bronicas. i still have a great love for the s2 and s2as, my first 6x6 slr.

It was, indeed, a joint venture which was to everyone's benefit.
For the most part, a true statement, although it m... (show quote)
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Jan 19, 2014 13:26:30   #
Cdouthitt wrote:
Why would I want to ruin something I enjoy by making it my "work".


that happens a lot in the business. if, however, you can find a niche (wildlife photography, just as an example) then doing what you love no longer stunts your creativity or enthusiasm.
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Jan 19, 2014 13:24:18   #
yup, we call it Nikon Committing Suicide.

hard to believe, but since they went digital (sorry, but true, folks) not only will they not look at grey market equipment for a fee, the will no longer supply independent repair technicians with parts for any nikon product.

the Better Business Bureau has rated their authorised repair facilities with an "F". and yup, Canon, these days, is a lot better, and this comes from a 55 year nikon user!
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