Actually, the idea is that focus and shooting are separate and not dependent on one another. So, you can focus first, shoot first it doesn't matter. The camera will always take the shot if it's set properly. Just make sure your AF-C priority setting is set to "Release" and not "Focus" or it may prevent you from taking the shot if you don't focus first.

Look for a Custom Setting called AF Activation and set it to AF-On only. That'll take it off the shutter release.

Thanks for the mention and the kind words :)

Note - to get the 15% off, you need to use this code at checkout:
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You need to turn it on in the playback display options. Press the menu button on the back of the camera and go to the main Playback Menu option at the very top. Scroll down to Playback Display Options and click. You'll find a list under there you where you can "check" the options you want to see. Just highlight the item and press the right side of the multi-selector to choose. It sounds like you're looking for RGB histogram. Hit OK when you're done or it won't stick.

Now, pop off a shot and hit play. Using the top or bottom of the multi-selector, scroll through your image view options. The RBG histogram will be one of the screens.

Your AF sensors may have a bit of dust on them. I had a similar thing happen to me in Florida with a D500. Slow to engage, wouldn't hold a lock. I blew off the AF sensors (actually saw something fall out) and it worked fine ever since.

Admin doesn't like me posting links to my materials here, but if you google "steve perry autofocus problems video" you should find a video that has instructions for doing it. It's tip #2 I believe.

Leave it on or the calibration won't be used.

Thanks for the kind words everyone. I'm glad you enjoyed it :)

I just posted a new video - it's an 18 minute crash course on bird in flight photography and explains all the fundamentals. I've put in my top ten techniques in this rapid-fire, no fluff presentation. Enjoy!

https://backcountrygallery.com/bird-in-flight-photography-crash-course/

Thanks!

LOL - I bet you never forget the noise-cancelling headphones again!!!

Thanks again for the kind words and support everyone :)

Its download only but you are more than welcome to print it if you like. That's never a problem :)

Thanks!

Thanks so much for the kind words :) I'm really glad you enjoyed the book.

~Steve

Thanks for the kind words.

Oh, and D500 without a doubt for wildlife. The Z50 is nice, but it's not up to the D500 - and it's the slowest focusing of the three cameras for adapted lenses. A lot of people wanted it to be a mirrorless D500, but it's just not. However, I think Nikon just may have a mirrorless D500 in the works - at least based on the latest rumors. (I have no "connections" so I just go off of Nikon Rumors.)

Hey everyone!

I just posted a new video for Nikon Z users that talks about the best settings for action work. Hope you find it useful:

https://backcountrygallery.com/nikon-mirrorless-performance-and-action-tips/

Enjoy!

The 2x just doesn't work that well on the 300PF. I mean, it's not terrible, but the 1.4 is really the best bet. You lose a touch fo sharpness, but it's negligible. Plus, the 2X will drop it to F/8 so only the center-area AF sensors will work (and usually slowly).

Also, the weight is 1.46 kg on the 500PF, vs .95 kg or so for the 300 + TC. About a half kg more.

Don't get me wrong, the 300PF is one of my all time favorites, but on a full frame camera, even with a TC, I'm worried it'll come up short much of the time. I know it would (and does) for me. However, if its weight makes it miserable to use, then it's a bad plan of course.

Another thought is to use the 300PF + TC with something like a D500. That's a match made in heaven for an effective, high performance, reasonably priced wildlife kit.