Excellent Image.

I find that shooting through glass has a tendancy to make you lose some contrast so that can be fixed in PP.
I too a trip to Agawa Canyon (140km north of Sault St. Marie in Ontario Canada). You take a train there and back. I went during the fall and wanted to capture the fall colours. Except for the canyon itself, most of my pictures were through the train windows. There were a few people that were interested in photography. Most used cell phones and the odd P&S. THere were only a few DSLR's (at least in our group of people). I got together with a few of them after to trade photos and see what each other took on the trip. They were blown away with my photos when comparing them to theirs. I did 2 main things different besides using better hardware...
I used a Polarizing filter to cut down on glare and also at most times, held my lens against the glass or right up close to increase the contrast and elinimate the glare.
Here are just a few of the photos.

As someone else suggested, The dog collar sounds like a great idea.

(Download)

Did someone call for a computer nerd?

As Linary said, you should not change your default application to point to Lightroom. It should be some photo viewer. I personally use Faststone Viewer... excellent program. You can use Photoshop as the default but if you use Lightroom, I would change that.

The correct way to use lightroom is to import your photos into Lightroom first. I pull my card(s) out of my camera, insert them into an external reader plugged in to a USB port on my computer. I find a good card reader much faster and easier than using the camera directly. I then go into Lightroom and click on Import. It right away finds my card. I make sure all are ticked (Select All but that is the default) and then import them. They are added into my file structure that I have setup within Lightroom. I then just change the name of the folder by using rename in Lightroom to reflect what was shot; maybe the town or event added to my pre-configured YYYY-MM-DD. Once that is done I do 2 backups to external hard drives. Then and only then, I delete the photos from the card and start my editing in Lightroom and as others have said, I export to Photoshop any picture that needs additional work that cannot be done in Lightroom. Lightroom keeps getting better and better so there is not too much that I need Photoshop for.

I agree with what Gene51 write. I too am just building a new system.
I am going with:
A Gigabyte Z270 Gaming 7 motherboard (I wanted thunderbolt as well as USB 3.1 Type A and C). If I am going to spend all this money I want all the newest tech in there.
I went with the fastest SSD available right now, the Samsung 960 Pro. I am also going to use 2 - 480GB SSDs in raid 0 (Giving 960GB) for my main work drive. The one I copy my photos to and do the work on. Later I could move them off to my 2 different backup drives. I already have these available to don't want to spend more than I have to.
I got an EVGA Supernova NEX750 B PSU, 32GB of G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 3200MHz RAM, Corsair H100I GTX Water Cooler and an Intel i7-7700K CPU. All of that is being installed in a Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout Edition Case. The MB has all kinds of fancy lighting available... I got a case which should be quieter and has no window. I guess you can figure out how important all those lights are (NOT!).
I was originally looking at the X99 MBs and Intel 6850X CPU but besides being more $$, after watching performance reviews, they are actually slower for lightroom/Photoshop type which have more single core functions so I went that way. I already have a decent video card, GTX960 so I'll pull that one out of my older system and put it in this one and I have a GTX 450 from my older one to put back in there.
I am working on putting it all together now so haven't seen it fly net. Unfortunately I made the mistake of buying the SSD from Newegg with free shipping. It is taking more than 1 week to get it to me. I should have paid the few extra bucks to get it here faster. Expected to get here next tuesday (ordered it last Friday night) so can't finish the system until them but I have almost everything installed in the case and just waiting for the SSD to be able to start installing the O/S and software.
Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

I second that. It is really a great camera, easy to use (after you learn it of course) and gives great quality photos. You don't have to worry about changing lenses and had a decent wide to zoom lens. I got my brother to buy one before a trip and he was very happy with it.

To add to some of the things said above, make sure you shoot RAW. You can correct for a lot of problems easier and with a lot more latitude. The exposure could be blown or too dark and usually can be brought back. I have a similar problem when I am shooting planes as they can come from having the sun behind them to in front or to the side. I can usually end up with all keepers.
Always try to get it right in camera of course, but it will make it easier to fin them. If lighting doesn't change much I shoot on manual. Once you get it right you don't have to worry about it and can concentrate on the subject. If the light is always changing then I usually still use manual with auto ISO to get the photo. You know the speed you need to stop the motion of the bird. You know the aperture you need to get it all in focus so the ISO is the thing that can change to adjust just the exposure leaving the other aspects as they are. I will usually shoot spot metering if I can keep the focus point on the subject and want the subject correct not caring as much about the rest of the photo.

I am a Photoshop user from way back and only used Photoshop (along with the odd plug-in).
After Lightroom came out I moved to using that as my front end, for finishing the basic adjustments and most of the rest in PS.
As Lightroom grew and developed I was able to accomplish more so I used PS less and less.
I wish Lightroom was able to handle everything I need but it can't so there is always something on some photos that need to be addressed in PS.
A big example is like someone else said about removing wires. For me a biggie is if I straighten a photo, the only option in LR is to crop. I like to use Content Aware Fill to fill in the white around the borders that were caused by the rotation.
I hadn't used much of the cataloging features of LR until recently when I started going through ALL my photos over again and adding Keywords and face recognition.
I started at the beginning when I started taking digital photos, 2002 working my way to today. It is a large project (a few hundred thousand photos) but one that I feel is worth it. I am almost finished 2013. Doing this is not only letting me be more organized like letting me find a photo more easily, but is also making me go through my photos again which is nice to relive the memories from when I first took them.
For me, Photoshop just does the few things I need that LR cannot do as those mentioned above as well as putting on my signature and frame for the photos I upload to my photo site.

Great shot!

Nikon allows you to mount a DX (Nikons equivalent to Canons EF-S) lens on a full frame body but as others have said, canon does not.
You can however on either system mount a FF lens on a crop body.

I agree with you Jerry. I can only guess that some people maybe have nothing else to do so they have to keep themselves amused...
I believe either be helpful or just move on although I could understand someone leaving the good restaurant message where they may not be answering the question but maybe offering some good travel information.

I have used Reikan for a few years. The newer version (I had to buy it for my D500 support) is very good and is even easier to setup. As was said, it helps you make sure the target is setup right and can perform most of the adjustments on it's own. Unfortunately, with Nikon, it can't do it all. You need to go into the menu and change the +- amount as it instructs you to. I would prefer fully automatic but it is still easy to do. It then gives you a full report.

Very nice

I always have a grip on my cameras. For shooting vertical, it helps tremendously and it is especially great to have an extra battery in it so you don't have to change batteries and you can shoot all day without any worry. I have the larger battery from the D4/D5 cameras in it for an even longer use. I buy the original Nikon grip. I have heard some good things about some of the 3rd party grips and also plenty of bad things. Do you NEED to spend the money on the Nikon grip? No. My personal choice since I am spending so much money on the camera, why be cheap on an accessory that I will use Every Time I use the camera and will have to go through the same conditions the camera goes through (weather, dust, vibrations whatever...). I have originals on both my D810 & D500. I had one on all my Canon's before as well.

Hi Mary,
Congrats on your new addition. He looks exactly like my 2, both females. Similar coloring.
http://www.pbase.com/mkaplan/image/108148699/large.jpg
This is not long after I got them, at about 18 months old. That was in 2008.

Welcome and congratulations on your well deserved retirement.
Show us some of your photos when you get your new lens.