On some images I have different treatments. I may have a black & white version as well as color,or a square crop and rectangular version. I put that information under copy.

Where I noticed the biggest difference between my 5D Mark IV and my R5 is when I was shooting birds that involved extreme cropping. I could crop further with the R5 and still get an acceptable image. On large prints of focus-stacked images, I could also see a difference, although not major.

Glad to hear. After mulling the decision point for several days and considering whether I would really benefit from the R5 or whether it was just GAS, it took me only my first session shooting to determine that I made the right choice. Glad that you are happy with your choice. I predict that the more you shoot, the more you will appreciate your new camera.

Thank you for your kind comments Wasabi. Plant photography is a passion of mine

Glad you enjoyed sb. Nature forms are fascinating.

Thanks you nimbushopper

Appreciate you looking and taking the time to comment, kpmac.

Irwin

This tiny haworthia, about an inch wide, has the dome of its leaves filled with a jelly like substance that protect the chloroplasts from intense sunlight. The main light was a softbox on the right side. A reflector (actually the front of a softbox) was on the left hand side for fill. The backlighting was from a spotlight. I played with the position and intensities of the light to get the glowing effect I wanted. I tried to avoid too much rim lighting as I wanted a gentle glow for this focus stacked image.

Let me know your thoughts

Irwin

(Download)

With a black background and light subject, halos are common. The best way to eliminate the halo with a subject that has a a simple profile like a shell use Zerene. After you run the stack (I run it in both PMax and DMap then choose the best for working with), then run a limited purpose DMap in Zerene. Pull the slider to the right so that the black cozies up tightly against the shells edges. Then retouch the haloed background. This should work regardless of whether you used DMap or PMax for your subject.

[quote=Orphoto]

Orphoto, you may be right. I get different set of camera profiles.

Gene has given very good advice. I would qualify his advice in one small respect. File naming and file structure may be a bit more personalized depending upon what you shoot and what your needs are. As someone who may shoot 30 similar plant species in a day with information such as variant, plant collection data, and scientific name being important, my file structure and naming tends to be more elaborate. My editors don't want to do a keyword search to find a particular species out of a set of images. But that is just my particular needs. It has to work for you.

I also want to deal with only the raw version and my edited PSD or TIFF file (dependent on my processing program). I often revisit old images when new software comes out that allows me to improve the image. If I have multiple copies of the image, then I have to hunt them all down and make the changes in each of the various file. I use keywords and collections to gather images for specific purposes. For example, If I am submitting preparing a book on haworthia species I will have a collection entitled "Haworthias for book" that will contain a virtual copy of each of the original images. Any subsequent edits of the original image will be reflected in the virtual copy. Hope that helps.

Thank you Mikey. Like you, I am very pleased with the system.

Irwin

Thanks Ed. Please count me in. I was traveling and did not see this thread until today. Lighting is the soul of photography. You can never have too much soul.

Irwin

If you are seeking the best noise reduction from Topaz Denoise AI, DO NOT use the export function as suggested. That converts the file to a Tiff and takes back a Tiff. Instead, drop the file(s) on the DeNoise icon. The file(s) will be processed as RAW files and ultimately left in a DNG format. If you are using Lightroom, you will have to synchronize the file(s) or otherwise import them back into Lightroom. On your return to Lightroom or you other processing programs, you will be working with a raw DNG files. Topaz has instructional videos on this matter.

Irwin

I have two that I have used extensively and like them immensely. I recently posted wood duck pictures with the RF 800. It is sharp, extremely light, and a bit quirky. A fun lens to use that gets you to 800mm cheaper than any option I know of.

Until my buddy show me how sharp his images were with the RF 24-240, I never would have considered the lens. Because of it's range, it is my walk around lens.

I have not used the RF 85mm but I would be surprised if it did not render a quality image. My suggestion is to purchase one from a reputable merchant that accepts returns, such as B&H. Save the packing and put the lens through it's paces. Then decide. I doubt you will return the lens. I think what you will find is that you have good optics in a lighter, non weatherproofed body, that does not have the fast apertures, trucklike build, or the Nth performance factor of their "L" counterparts. I suspect you will be happy with the tradeoffs.

Irwin