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Posts for: ldhflyguy
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Nov 11, 2019 16:17:27   #
I have the Eizo CX271 monitor. It seems to be a wonderful monitor for photography images, with the following exception. I use Photoshop CC, Camera Raw, and Lightroom. With my Windows 10 computer monitor resolution set to 2560 x 1440 to get full picture quality and size on my CX271, I'm finding it impossible to make the print for dropdown menus and layer tool menus large enough for really comfortable viewing. For Camera Raw, the menus and adjustment slider labels are even smaller. I've tried all sorts of settings within Windows 10 and Photoshop Preferences>Interface and nothing really solves my problem. Lightroom is not a problem at all. In LR I can make the menu print and slider labels really big. When I set my computer resolution to 1920 x 1080 the Photoshop and Camera Raw print size problems are all resolved, but that seems to waste the capabilities (really sharp images) of the expensive monitor. A while back Adobe told me they hadn't felt the need to fully fix the 2560 x 1440 issue.

I don't think my problem is specific to monitor brand. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue with there monitor, regardless of brand, set to 2560 x 1440? Did you find a "fix"?
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Nov 9, 2019 12:59:33   #
If you are a Photoshop user you might find that the following is an issue:
I have the Eizo CX271. It seems to be a wonderful monitor for photography, with the following exception. I use Photoshop CC, Camera Raw, and Lightroom. With my Windows 10 monitor resolution set to 2560 x 1440 to get full picture quality on my CX271, I'm finding it impossible to make the print for dropdown menus and layer tool menus to be large enough for really comfortable viewing. For Camera Raw, the menus and adjustment slider labels are even smaller. I've tried all sorts of settings within Windows 10 and Photoshop and nothing really solves my problem. Lightroom is not a problem at all. When I set my computer resolution to 1920 x 1080 the print size problems are all resolved, but that seems to waste the capabilities of the expensive monitor. A while back Adobe told me they hadn't felt the need to fully fix the 2560 x 1440 issue.

I don't think my problem is specific to monitor brand. I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue with there monitor, regardless of brand, set to 2560 x 1440?
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Aug 31, 2019 10:49:54   #
I use the setup in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCI1tL-aHcE&list=PLwmt8qwjXqIficY71Q3jdyxqzTaZlryG8
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Jul 11, 2019 15:09:00   #
Thank You Guys.
You've made good points.
I'll be selling my f4 and getting
the new 500mm PF by around
Christmas. I'm 70 and lugging
around my f4 is starting to be
out of my capacity.
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Jul 11, 2019 11:20:12   #
Howard5252 wrote:
Actually I've had it now for about two weeks. I traded in my Nikon 500mm f4 and released the two Sherpas that I hired to carry it. I can now get closer to birds in a more graceful and less threatening manner - a slow walk. Moving closer with the larger 500mm mounted on a substantial tripod was very awkward and time consuming; now I just slowly get closer, with the camera at the ready.
I only had to wait about 6 months for the new lens and the lens itself is living up to all of its wonderful reviews. I am a happy camper, confident that I made the right choice by switching lenses.
Actually I've had it now for about two weeks. I tr... (show quote)


Hi Howard.
I'm just wondering if you've come across any lighting situations where an f4 would have made the shot possible or even just better?
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Jul 4, 2019 14:32:30   #
dhroberts wrote:
Have you tried HeliconFocus as an alternative to Zerene? I have done extensive tests of the two (and of Photoshop), and found that Helicon is superior. You can try it out for 30 days free.


Hi dhroberts.
I've been experimenting with focus stacking using Photoshop and I'm happy with the results. "Auto-Align Layers" and "Auto-Blend Layers" in PS seem to be pretty time consuming. I am wondering if HeliconFocus or Zerene would get the job done faster. I probably don't need any special features other than what I have in PS. I typically stack about 25-40 images.
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May 18, 2019 15:28:08   #
Nalu wrote:
Apeture = f/4 (400mm f/2.8 GM plus 1.4X) so wide open. FPS = 20. Hummer iso = 400, kingbird = 4000, flycatchers = 2000 @1/4000. Hummer was the only bird in good light.

Thanks for looking.


Thanks for the extra information Nalu. Your images are very motivating.
I'll try your shutter speeds and 9-10fps to see if I can get
House Wren images as they are taking off from my feeder.
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May 18, 2019 11:17:38   #
Pretty Amazing!
What about ISO and Aperture and Frames Per Second?
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Jan 9, 2019 10:54:41   #
Thanks pesfls.
I just ran across this phenomena the other day
and was frustrated that changing the EV on my
Nikon at full manual didn't seem to work as expected.
I figured it was just something I didn't know about
and would find it in the manual later.
You've saved me from having to figure it out.

Thank You.
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Aug 17, 2018 16:28:26   #
jak86094 wrote:
Try this...Draw your ellipse then pick Select > Transform Selection and move the cursor outside of the transform rectangle, near one of the corner or side handles. The cursor will change to a rotate cursor which you can drag to rotate your ellipse. I haven't yet figured out how to then change the ellipse shape after you have rotated it, but maybe you don't need that. Good luck...and maybe someone else knows how to draw a rotated ellipse.


Thank You jak.
I've spent a lot of time trying to figure that out.
With your help it only took me an additional 2 minutes!
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Aug 17, 2018 14:08:30   #
Is it possible to tilt/rotate the Elliptical Marquee selection tool before making the actual selection. I have no problem at all making Elliptical Marquee selections as long as they are vertical or horizontal; but, I would like to rotate the ellipse before finalizing the selection. After a selection is made, I can rotate the selection within the picture; but, that's not my goal.
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May 5, 2018 21:18:44   #
CSand wrote:
Be glad to. First of all is my amazing Canon macro EF 100mm lens. Shoots great in low light. My favorite time to shoot is 5 until dark. The light is wonderful at this time. And I love the light of an incoming storm. Actually I would say almost effortlessly. I let my camera find my shots. I look through the lens and float and move my camera about. Something will catch my eye,take my breath and there is my shot. I get down low and shoot up and through and into plants. I watch for blowouts. Light too bright on leaves, etc. and try to adjust view. I use a circular polarizer just about all of the time and I keep my exposure comp. at usually -1. Only in winter do I "set up". In this situation I use window light, late evening or low light from a lamp. Again I go into the plant or flower arrangement, letting my camera find the shot. It is there always. Multiple shots. I use LR for PP. My favorite adjustments are clarity, vibrance, contrast, sharpening-all with a light touch. I have a set of presets that I enjoy as well as save time. One quirk I find so important is to shoot vertically quite often as this gives long flower stems, etc., a natural flow. Nothing worse to me than a beautiful stem shot horizontally. You lose the rhythm totally. Flowers need to dance, flow, be natural. Not stiff and cropped too close. A natural environment of the plant, bush, tree gives great flow opportunity. Sometimes you have to center the bloom and it can look good, but most times go along the lines of your subject. Straight down into a bloom can work, but again more rhythm comes shooting at an angle across a bloom. I could go on and on as I love it so. Hope some of this helps and hope it makes sense to you. Sandy Oh, also important, I use aperture and most of the time choose 4. Then roll the manual focus until I get a look I like.
Be glad to. First of all is my amazing Canon macro... (show quote)


Thank You so very, very much CSand.
I am going to try to incorporate your techniques
into my next flower shoots.
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May 4, 2018 21:58:53   #
I have tried lots of flower pictures and setups in my basement with variations of lighting and focus stacking.
I can make "Okay" pictures of flowers and "Sharp" pictures of flowers. Big pictures of tiny flowers and big
pictures of big flowers. None of my pictures have the "artistic look" that yours have. Your pictures look
as though you do them effortlessly. And, I'm sure you don't do them effortlessly. I believe you spend much
time in making your arrangements of the flowers "just right". The bokeh is amazing in your pictures.
The rose in picture #2 has a certain blurriness that goes perfectly with the bokeh of the rest of the picture.

Please share a little with how you create your flower pictures.
Any special lens? Special lighting? Special software?
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May 4, 2018 11:22:17   #
You have wonderful skills for flower photography.
I'm jealous.
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Apr 2, 2018 18:27:08   #
EdJ0307 wrote:
One part sugar, three parts water in the hummingbird feeder. It doesn't need to be red or any other color.


Thank You Ed.
I'm going to head over to Menards and
get a feeder from their bird feed department.
I'll put it out when we stop getting freezing weather.

Any additional suggestions will be appreciated.
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