It is nice to hear all these old stories and get the help I need from such a great source of experiance. Thanks.

There does not see to be any shutter mechanism at all-just a small brass barrel type lens. I think if I had a cap for the end of it that would be one way to controll exposure time. My speed grahic does have a working focal plane shutter also and I will probably use some pretty slow b/w film. My friend the collector lent me an old Cyclone wet Plate magazine box camera that I was goning to try this ASA 50 film with it and I can use it with this lens on my speed graphic also. I did buy another old brass lens off the same dealer and waiting for it to arrive just is a 140mm focal lenght as appose to the one I am writing about that is a 240mm focal length. But there is no shutter to it--its pretty old--the glass is great. Thanks

Thats what I thought--I could not image using that on any camera gear. I just left a message with Discount Camera Repair about a rought estimate on the cost. This old lens is pretty simple--there is no shutter or focusing mechanism other than moving the bellows of my spped graphic with it attached to it. It has 2 lens elements one on either end which with removal leads acess to the apeture blades. There is a small screw to the side of the lens on a ring where the apeture blades sit so I doubt it would be a big deal for him. Thanks for all the info.

Thanks Pounder35--I'll look him up--I also know someone in a town about 20mi from here that could do the work. You are probably right on having a pro look at it.

Thanks cgchief, the apeture blades on this old brass lens are metal so do you think it would work on those? I have a friend who has used Radio Shack's Instrument Cleaner and WD40 on shutters etc and thought the Radio Shack product would be good. I don't know if there is any alcohol in the stuff nor do I know how alcohol would effect things. Thanks for any help--I'd like to get out with it this fall and take some old-timy looking photos. Would the Ronson or WD 40 leave to much oil on the blades?

Another question concerning my speed graphic has to do with finding lens boards for it--I have found a number on eBay but find them very costly. My camera uses the aluminum ones approx 94mm x92mm. Has anyone used wood ones? The sites on eBay that sell wood ones are not the right size and state not to be used with a camera that requires the aluminum ones--my camera is the Speed Graphic 4x5.

I have a 4x5 Speed Graphic that I have used a couple of years ago and hope to get out with it in the near future. I have a number of different lenses for it and just bought a couple of old brass lenses for it--one being a portrait lens. The apeture blades on it are gunked up which makes it hard to use, although they do work. Anyone know a good way of cleaning them-what kind of solvent or cleaning solution to use on the apeture blades? Does not appear to be oil but more of a solid greenish-black pasty stuff. I've used a soft synthetic watercolor flat brush that seems soft enough and seems to help but some kind of cleaning solution would help. Any suggestions?

Mine has the spot with the split image match up--which is not too useful since it is often looks dark and I don't see as well as I use to. In that regard I appreciate autofocus especially when there is something definite to focus on or if my eyes are too tired I can just listen for the ding.

Thanks every one--that solved my problem! I like these old clunker cameras for their simplicity but would'nt you know it--Nikon would sneek in a "Magic Button." I've had fun so far with it and I love the big viewfinder which is hard to find in digital cameras today. I take my color film to Sam's, the big brother to Walmart and have a Minolta Dimage Scan Dual III and Epson V700 flatbed scanner for film up to 8x10 for my medformat and Speed Graphic 4x5. I often use the c-41 b/w films that a color lab can process and although I know how to develop my regular b/w film my new apartment I now live in is not to keen on me using chemicals. But there seems to be plenty of places to dev. the reg b/w especially mail order. I am and always will be an old filmy person--as Gary Winogrand stated "I like to photograph to see something photographed" or something like that. I'm like that too--I just like film with all its imperfections--crappy cameras or lenses or great just to see what happens. I haven't even hooked up my Epson scanner yet and still have to hook up amy Nikon Coolscan V ed that I bought off a friend for $50. I don't have the software for it but wen I ready to use it I'll post that question then. Thanks so much people.

I recently purchased a Nikon FE (know very little about) and have trouble pulling up the rewind handle/knob to open the back of the camera. Is there a certain way to do this or is the knob need servicing? It's a nice little camera but when it comes to opening the back it is almost impossible. I only paid $50 for the camera and a 50mm f2.8 lens. I also have some one 20mins away that works on vintage cameras,clocks,stereos--you name it. I purchased off a individual with no return so that is out of the question but I do plan to biuld up my colection. I'm used to old Minoltas and have a Nikon EM that was given me awhile back.

hi-I doubt that they could print them do to the fragility of the emulsion. Think of the chemicals on the printing paper--cyanotypes,salted paper,platinum printing etc could damage the emulsion quite a bit. I have some glass plate negatives that have pretty strong emulsions on them and are in good condition that they have very little damage and survived all these years. I am not sure when they started useing them but I think it was later in the 19 Century. Dauguerotypes, Ambroytypes and tintypes date much earlier around the Civil War era and before. A good book on the history of photography is by Beaumont Newhall a contempory of Ansel Adams. It is a good read and and easy one too. John Wood has a number of books on old process especialydaugerotypes. But if you have study the chemical process of these old-time processes they use some strong materials. The book "The Keepers of the Light" by William Crawford is a very good book on subject with instruction on how to print old processes. There are a number of artists today that are still using wet plate Colloidion method most notably Sally Mann. There was a magazine called Fuzion that had an issue totally about current artists who are still using wet plate colloidion which is what a glass plate is made from.

Hi --I want to take a minute and thank all of you that have served in the Armed forces and I greatly appreciate your hard work and sacrifices. Thank you all very much and God bless or what ever Higher Power you may use.

Hi--I just bought Lumix FZ150 and haven't used it much yet. But with the manual on CD I took it to OfficeMax and had them print out into a book stye about 5x7 in size with a spiral binding and frost clear plastic cover which cost between $15-16. Much cheaper than using my own printer ink and less troubles. It was done while I waited. I live in a small town so they were not very busy then. I hope this tip helps any one with a CD for the manual. Cheers

Hi--another tip on how to determine a Daguerotype is when you hold one in your hand and tilt a little at different angles you should be able to see both positive and negative images. I hope that helps.

Hi Iam a new member using the name ArgusSnap1 and use a Nikond70,a new Lumix fz150,older Canon sx110 ps, various film cameras . My big set is the '70-80's era Minoltas with the SRT202, a couple of Nikons-EM,FE newly purchased. 4x5 Speed graphic press with a # of lenes. I also have 4 Med Format TLRs==Minolta Autocord(not used yet)a older Rolliflex, and 2 YashicaMats 124G whichI have used a lot. I collect old photos and old cameras--some to use later. Holgs a couple of the oringinal Dianas and have developed my own b/w and printed. I now will have to print my b/w and color film,slides etc which is my weakist link. Ialso used cheap plastic panoramas camers with b/w 35mm and do some "Crappy Camera Art" I am a Serious Amatuer and Fine Artist and have been hung in a number of good gallery shows. My spelling is terrible so please bear with me. I have learned quite a bit reading this site and hope to ask questions as well as help answer others. Thanks a lot.