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Posts for: kb6kgx
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Feb 24, 2014 15:50:20   #
If one has nothing, better to get a D300S, which is still available from Nikon directly or go for the newer D7100? I know it’s not all about “megapixels”, but can anyone expand not he pros and cons of each? I really don’t care about video, though it’s nice to have for those “just in case” situations. Thank you, in advance.
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Feb 24, 2014 15:45:23   #
Nikonian72 wrote:
What is a Cannor?
Cannon is a towel manufacturer;
Canon is a camera manufacturer.


Right. Not sure how one could make such an error. The “r” key is a “right hand” key, and on the TOP row, whereas the “n” key is a “left hand” key, and on the BOTTOM row. Whatever.

You left out, though, that “Cannon” is also a military weapon that fires large, heavy projectiles.
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Feb 23, 2014 01:46:32   #
I do like the idea of all of the “programmed” functions of the new flash units that are specifically designed to work with these cameras, just that the idea of shelling out $300-500 on a new flash when the ol’ trusty Sunpak would work… not sure. Yes, it’s a “thyristor” type, and that’s exactly how I used it back in the day. Just set the thing to “f8” or whatever and shot away.
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Feb 23, 2014 01:43:13   #
kb6kgx wrote:
What about what was quoted from that website?


I’ll repost it again here:

The "bozilla" link states the following for the Sunpak Auto 555:

Voltage demonstrated from 4.1v to 6.9v.

The person who posted the test results also stated:

"E-mail from Sunpak assured me that no cameras have ever been harmed by a 555."

Trust that?
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Feb 22, 2014 18:58:32   #
joer wrote:
Be careful. I've read that the higher trigger voltages of some older flashes may damage a digital camera


What about what was quoted from that website?
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Feb 22, 2014 14:53:14   #
The "bozilla" link states the following for the Sunpak Auto 555:

Voltage demonstrated from 4.1v to 6.9v.

The person who posted the test results also stated:

"E-mail from Sunpak assured me that no cameras have ever been harmed by a 555."

Trust that?
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Feb 22, 2014 02:11:44   #
Good advice from all.

Yes, I have looked at the Sunpak that you mention. It looks good. Not quite the GN of 150 that the 555 is rated at, but close enough, and considerably less $$$ than the Nikon.
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Feb 21, 2014 22:53:28   #
I have a Sunpak Auto 555 “potato masher” flash that I still have only because it wasn’t in my car when it got broken into and the bastard(s) stole my gear. Several point-and-shoots later, I’m ready to get a DSLR soon. I’m looking at the Nikon D7100. But this question applies to ANY current model DSLR.

Can I use the Sunpak on the new cameras? It’d be a shame to shell out hundreds of dollars if what I have will work fine.
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Feb 21, 2014 22:50:10   #
PhotoGenesis131 wrote:
If you get to Rockwell see what he says about the 18-200 and the 18-300. These are good zooms- fill in with a couple if great primes. Consider a refurb 7100 body only and get the lense you really want. I have had good experiences buying used lenses.


There doesn’t seem to be a huge gap between the price of a refurb and the price of a new 7100. I’d think it would be better to have the new, with full warranty.
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Feb 21, 2014 10:41:46   #
Of course, faster is better, generally. But for a general “walk-around” lens, especially for traveling where you just want to have that one lens, the 18-140 would be more than adequate.

There is s considerable price difference from the 80-200 to the 70-200. Is it really worth it for those 10 mm extra?
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Feb 20, 2014 02:09:18   #
wings42 wrote:
the 18-200 at 200mm takes clear and sharp photos within about 10 feet and in the "macro" range, below 5 ft. down to the minimum 1 1/2 ft. It's almost useless to take a photo beyond about 50 feet


That doesn’t sound very good at all. I know that longer zoom rations are not good for the “sharpness” factor, but it boggles my mind that Nikon would knowingly make a poor product.

But then, Nikon DID make the “EM” back in the 80s.
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Feb 20, 2014 00:32:57   #
I’m planning to acquire a D7100 in the not-too-distant future. It is packaged with one of three “kit” lenses. My question is, which is the best way to go? Based on what I know about zoom lenses, it would make sense that the 18-105 would yield the sharpest images as its zoom ratio is the smallest. The 18-200 gives the best “reach”, but I’d heard that the greater the zoom ratio is the less sharp the lens will be.

Or, as consumer expert Clark Howard puts it, don’t get the cheapest, don’t get the most expensive, get the one in the middle. Your best bang for the buck is the one in the middle. By that logic, the 18-140 would seem the way to go.

I’m also concerned about the lens mount. Some of the newer, “kit” lenses have plastic lens mounts. Has that been a problem for anyone?
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Feb 17, 2014 12:24:41   #
I'm hoping to get a Nikon D7100 in the immediate future. My wife thinks it is "so expensive" and why do I need "so much stuff" (flash, couple of extra lenses, etc.), and wonders why the point-and-shoot isn't good enough.

But then she thought nothing of buying for herself this Swarovski crystal bird thing. For $1400. Because is pretty. And it sits in the cabinet on a shelf and nobody ever looks at it.

But the camera that I want, that I will USE, is "too expensive".

Ugggghhhhh!!!!!!
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Jan 13, 2014 23:30:31   #
Glider wrote:
According to www.nikonusa.com, price of a D7100 is $1,199.xx, body only. Now maybe there is a better deal elsewhere, but other than cost, why would you stay with a cropped sensor if you could get a full frame sensor for close to the same money. You get versatility, better low light capability and more lens options. If you could buy a D700 for $1,200, the you could also buy a used but excellent 50mm f/1.8 for around $80 and you essentially have a D3 with a slower frame rate. No brainer!


Of course I’d rather have full frame! Who wouldn’t? Continuous shutter is nice, on occasion, but I wouldn’t be shooting sports. The only time I could see me needing it would be at air shows to give me a better chance at getting the shot rather than just taking a single chance of getting it right. It was one-at-a-time with my FE2 and F, before that, and it seemed to be OK for me. What’s the frame rate on a D700? About 5-6 fps?
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Jan 13, 2014 22:37:35   #
Glider wrote:
The three digit DSLR's are not all less well built than the pro level bodies. I shot a pair of D700's for years with MB-D10's attached and they were bullet proof. I finally broke one. Dropped just the body onto granite rocks from about 5' up. Viewing was screwed, but the camera continued to focus sharp and shoot for another 4 hours. Sent it to NPS and they turned it around in 4 days including replacing the shutter just as a precaution. D700 shutters were guaranteed for 150,000 actuations, but despite blowing way past that number, in 56 years behind a Nikon, I've never had a shutter problem. Besides, replacing it at Nikon is relatively cheap. $300, including the prism repair.
I've moved on to a pair of D4 and one D800 and the D4 shutter is guaranteed for 400,000 actuations. The camera is so fast it almost reads your mind. Buffering is also lightning fast, supporting more than100 frames at 11 fps. Rain is a non issue. So is temperature within what a human can tolerate. The 51 point focus points are not enough points. In studio, need to put the focus point in the eyes without having to reframe.
I'm really anxious to see what the D4s improves. If it's just video, I may pass. The current 4 does 1080p pretty well, but needs an external mike. I do not expect better low light. Now, iso of 12,800 is perfectly usable. One can always hope for more dynamic range, but the 4 is pretty good right now.
Anyway, that's my mind currently on Nikon. If someone wanted to be budget conscious and they are not concerned about video, I'd go for a used D700 for about $1,200-1,300. Same sensor as the D3 and tough as they come. With the D3 battery in the grip, it shoots 8-9fps.
The three digit DSLR's are not all less well built... (show quote)


I don’t really care about video, but it’s a nice feature to have for when the need comes up. But not a deal-breaker if it doesn’t have that.

Still, if that’s the price of a used D700, and I presume that is for the body only, but a D7100 can be had with the lens. Yes, it’s the “kit” lens, but…
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