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Feb 4, 2016 10:52:49   #
No question that Seagate Barracudas have recently had terrible reliability. It's not the first time. Years ago the SCSI Barracuda 7 had millions of failures generating a recall. Prior to that, Seagate made some of the fastest drives around and were the drive of choice for performance - sadly no more.

Western Digital's hundred-dollar drives don't have a stellar record either, but nowhere as bad as Seagate.

As of today, HGST seems to have the best reliability of the available consumer drives. Backblaze regularly produces a report of the drive reliability in their data center(s). This year the sample size was >47,000 drives ( a pretty good sample ), and HGST was by far the clear winner:

http://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-for-q2-2015.

If you don't yet trust SSDs or they're too expensive, a pair of mirrored HGSTs or a RAID group composed of them is a good way to go with spinning disk from a reliability perspective.
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Feb 4, 2016 10:28:28   #
Rongnongno wrote:
Time frame between the captures? A few seconds.


Very strange indeed. Do you have ready access to a storm shelter? (Good protection against aliens as well...) :)
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Feb 4, 2016 09:56:34   #
bclaker wrote:
I tried both methods and neither one worked. I saw someplace, when I Googled, that some older iPads were not compatible. Mine is Apple IPAD174 Air with WIFI 32GB. My son gave it to me Christmas 2024. It was purchased on 12/20/2014. Maybe that is the problem.


Does your iPad use a wide 30 pin interface plug or the smaller "lightning" plug? (the 30 pin is approx 1" wide, while the Lightning plug is approximately 1/4" wide). You mentioned an interface device for your sd card, but is it an Apple product? Apple makes sd card reader adapters for both the 30 pin (camera connector kit) and the lightning connector (lightning to sd camera reader). I have used both - the camera adapter kit for my wife's older iPad (bought approximately 2013) and the Lightning adapter for my newer IPad Air, and both read sd cards perfectly provided the images are in a supported format.
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Feb 3, 2016 23:08:10   #
More Danang


(Download)


(Download)


(Download)
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Feb 3, 2016 23:01:13   #
Here's a few more from Danang, 1968/69


(Download)


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(Download)
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Feb 3, 2016 11:52:27   #
Thanks so much for sharing. Hard to believe it's been that long (US Army I Corps - Danang, 1968/69)
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Feb 3, 2016 10:54:11   #
CLF wrote:
Help! I am having a problem with my new Canon T6s. My RAW photos have a purple haze, the JPEG are fine. I saved a RAW with nothing done to it and a JPEG. Bothe shot with same card, etc. Only difference was one inside one out. No flash. Any ideas? I am reading the book but so far no help.

Thanks Greg


You might want to download the 4.x version of DPP (digital photo professional), Canon's raw converter and editor, from Canon's European site if you don't already have it.
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Feb 2, 2016 10:41:30   #
Capture48 wrote:
You are correct, I was trying to keep the information at a very simple level. Should have been more precise.


I think you're right. A storage discussion can quickly escalate in technical terms to the point that it's well beyond what most users actually want to know - how can I keep my data safe? Both you and others on this thread have done a good job in pointing out that RAID is NOT a backup solution. It's simply using the power of multiple disks to achieve better performance, reliability or size (or all three) as compared to a single disk. All the types of storage (working, backup and archive) need to be addressed in order to maximize the security of our data, and all three have different attributes and implementations.
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Feb 2, 2016 09:59:23   #
Capture48 wrote:
Which RAID is correct for you is really hard to say. Depends on your tolerance for data loss.

RAID 1= Is Mirroring. Data from one disk is copied to the other in the background. This is the simplest and cheapest fault tolerance you can get. This tolerance level can be achieved by software or hardware. It is slower than RAID 5, and may cause a drag on your system depending on how it is implemented. In case of a failure with RAID 1 you simply break the mirror and you are up on running on the good disk. There may be systems with Hot swappable RAID 1 disks now, frankly I've not used 1 for years.

Raid 5 = Striping with parity. This means your data and parity data is copied across a number of disks, usually a minimum of 3. With this type of fault tolerance you get 2 times your smallest disk in the set for storage. So if you have 3 disks the first 1TB, the second 3TB, and the third 3TB, you get 2TB of storage. This is because all disks have to formatted alike and since you can't format a 1TB to accommodate 3TB of data, all disks are formatted to the smallest disk. Why only 2X the disk, one disk is always used for parity data, so if any one disk fails the system can recover. Consumer level NAS devices like this often have HOT SWAPPING, meaning at any time you can pull out that 1TB disk and put in a 3TB disk and get up to 6TB of storage. The disadvantage of any RAID/NAS system is it leads people into a false believe that they have a great backup solution. Make no mistake a RAID/NAS is NOT a backup solution, it's a storage solution.

There are different RAID levels but these two are by far the most common, and most others are variations on these two.
Which RAID is correct for you is really hard to sa... (show quote)


Well said, but one small correction - RAID 5 arrays do not have a dedicated single drive for parity information (Raid 3 and RAID 4 use a dedicated parity drive). On RAID 5, the parity information is rotated across all drives such that every drive has both parity and data (with the data block and its associated parity information not located on the same drive).
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Feb 1, 2016 21:29:29   #
Welcome from Raleigh!
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Feb 1, 2016 17:07:45   #
suterjo wrote:
It would be nice if we didn't reply in a specific camera format--no Nikon, Canon, etc. I'm a Pentax guy and I don't recognize all this other BS.


Since the OP is shooting a Canon (from his post), it's entirely appropriate that some of the responses referenced Canon's raw converter/parametric editor (DPP), which may be valuable to him.
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Jan 31, 2016 20:00:08   #
One last thing to consider. I know you just spent lots for the lens and probably don't need an additional expenditure, but if your body supports micro focus adjustment, you might consider calibrating it with the lens using a fixture (perhaps borrowed) or FoCal SW (about $60 US for the plus version). Mine required +9 at 200mm and +4 at 70. Yours may be spot on, but if not (and you use AF rather than manual focus), it's a small percentage to pay for getting the max sharpness out of your lens. The FoCal SW is a piece of cake (automated) and can be used on all your lenses. (disclaimer: I have no business interest in the company - just very impressed).

Cheers,
Chris
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Jan 31, 2016 18:26:38   #
moonhawk wrote:
Hi.

What is DPP please? I probably know and am having a brain fart, but I'd appreciate a response.

Thanks.


Digital Photo Professional. It's Canon's raw converter/parametric editor for Canon CR2 raw files. Version 4 is now available and free for download from Canon's European site - you just need the SN from the bottom of your Canon camera.
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Jan 31, 2016 15:44:31   #
While my local commercial printing service will accept TIFFs, JPEGs or PDFs, I think you may find TIFFs rather large to transfer to a remote site. For example, a 29 MB raw file becomes a 120 MB 16 bit TIFF or a 60 MB 8 bit as opposed to a JPEG, which might be 8 -16 MB depending on quality. I'm sure others with more commercial printing experience may have other advice.
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Jan 31, 2016 11:17:57   #
warrior wrote:
Adobe raw converter is the ticket!


I'm not so sure depending on which of Adobe's converters are used. Recently, I spent the better part of the day refining my workflow with regards to file type vs IQ (especially noise and dynamic range). I used the latest version of Adobe's DNG converter (version 8.7) as well as DPP (version 4.3.31) to create DNGs, TIFFs and high quality JPEGs from raw CR2 files. Upon very close examination, the DNGs created by the Adobe converter were noticeably noisier and less sharp than the files created by DPP. I'm going to re-run the tests using ACR into PS and see if the results differ, but for the moment, I'm standardizing on DPP for raw conversion.
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