I hate it when they do things without asking...

I LIKE it, Nice shot!

the algorithms that process your photo into a .JPG are different using the landscape mode as to how it would process your photo in a different mode. depending on your camera you may be able to set some of the values such how much saturation, sharpening and so on is done with each photo in each of the settings. check out the book that came with your camera, the settings and how to change them should be in there.

All caps is like shouting, not very polite.

NICE!, Very nice.

not all the expensive ones are white, that little red ring is a dead give away.

You asked so here is my take. I'd look for a used camera. if you want a fancy camera for a smaller investment there are many professionals who are up-grading to the latest Canon has to offer and are selling their old platform. I started my kids (grown children) out on used camera's for pennies on the dollar. I have seen MarkIV's for less than a grand and these were freshly serviced by Canon. I bought my daughter-in-law (with her credit card) a 30D with a 35mm F1.4L and filters for less than eight hundred. If you do buy a used one from a "professional" wouldn't be out of line asking for a little help/instruction. might be worth more than you paid for the camera?...

I started with a Rebel and the first thing I did was buy a telephoto lens, canon 28-135. never did like that lens. what I learned is that you need to be closer to your subject than I first realized, a telephoto lens wasn't the answer, IMOP.

looking back and knowing what I know now I'd go with primes and not zooms. you already have an 18-55 kit lens so that could do the lower end until you get something different. If you want a little more magnification get a fixed 85mm in as fast of glass as you can afford. after that a 100 macro f2.8 or a 35mm, again as fast as you can afford, say 1.8 or so. you'll get fabulous glass for way less money than zooms, let your feet do the zooming... my 100mm f2.8 macro is the most fun.

WAY Nice! Thanks for posting.

try a split ND filter next time, should help.

Nice!

seems to me that if you were to include the sky there should be more of it or none at all. that small wedge doesn't add enough to the overall photo IMOP. the rock on the right was cut off?... my photographer educated friends chastise me if I cut stuff off. sometimes it is a tough decision.

F22 is it on this lens. more ND might be the only answer. don't see how 10 minutes is possible.

Anyone here doing long exposure using black glass? This evening I went down to the sea using a .9 and a 1.8 ND filters (first try). This reduced my light about 9 stops but I never could get my exposure over 4 seconds. Wasn't all that bright. I am reading on the internet about 10 minute exposures using a 3.0 filter (10 stops) mid day, how is this possible? My ND value I wasn't that far off, or so I thought. What am I missing? Hoya makes a 2.7 (9 stops) filter which I thought I'd buy if I can't make this combination work.

I set the camera manually using the light meter in camera, centered not under exposed or over exposed. My photos turned out under exposed. I'd guess the white surf might have had something to do with this although it was really grey and not white like snow. I might have to add some shutter time to fix that, not sure about how much? I wasn't happy with what I shot. Does anyone have some insight? If you have some examples please post them.

camera is a 5D with 27-70 f2.8 lens. these RAW photos were taken at ISO 100, F16, 3.2 seconds at 24mm, .9 and 1.8 ND filter on together, 9 stops, manual exposure, cable release. I'd like a longer exposure creating softer water.

they sure don't give this stuff away. transmitter is about half the cost of the flash. it would be easier to buy if I knew what I was doing?... my wife is sure I need "professional" help and not the photo kind.