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Oct 3, 2018 06:26:51   #
bjtanddtr1 wrote:
I could likely use Google to research this; however, my experience in reading these threads is that the answers to a question or comments on a comment diverge and morph to limits beyond imagination. Now, my question. I have a Nikon D850 (camera is a lot smarter than me--and I know that), with various lenses--both zoom and primary. My primary travel lens (right now) is a Nikkor 28-300. My photo subjects while traveling are landscape, architecture, people, animals, museum art, flowers, etc. I love to take pictures of the smaller details on buildings (usually churches), so I extend the zoom all the way to 300. Often that is just not enough. Would it be a wise investment to get a teleconverter to extend this range? I'm not familiar with teleconverters or their function.
I could likely use Google to research this; howeve... (show quote)


Hi BJ,

First, welcome to the Hog. As to your question, you may have already found the 28-300 isn't teleconverter compatible. A very affordable alternative to buying another lens (150-600) as already suggested ( a beast of a lens) for what you're looking to do, which is get closer to your subjects to avoid excessive cropping is to buy your self a set of extension tubes. These will decrease the minimum focusing distance of your lens. Ranging from $50 to $125 a set that will allow you to maintain communication between lens and camera is a very good option to get you closer to your subject. There are even cheaper alternatives which in essence are just spacer tubes but you'll have to go full manual with them for focus and other settings. Like a teleconverter you'll loose a bit of light (f/stops) depending on the number of tubes you choose to stack between the lens and camera.

Unlike converters though there is no glass between the lens's elements and the sensor and therefore will not degrade your image quality. There are a host of manufacturers to choose from Kenko, Polaroid and Fotodiox among others. One draw back to extension tubes though is with their use you'll loose the ability to shoot out to infinity, but as you'll find out photography is all about trade offs. They're quite quick to change out though should you want to go back to shooting at distances once you've finished with your close up stuff. Which ever way you go I wish you the best of luck and happy shooting...
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Oct 2, 2018 06:47:06   #
alx wrote:
Looking at the OP's posted photos, she is clearly into birds and BIF both of which would benefit by a gimbal. While most of us (myself included) will always prefer inexpensive. Sometimes, however, an idea will come along that causes us to reconsider if it benefits our shooting. I merely was offering a non-standard option which she might not have considered that might appeal to her. Steve's link, which I provided, made me rethink my position and how much I would be willing to spend in terms of a monopod. At least it gives her something to think about.
Looking at the OP's posted photos, she is clearly ... (show quote)

I get it and did agree that the gimbal makes great sense but, the OP clearly stated she didn't want to spend much money to accomplish what she wanted. Rethinking positions is all fine and dandy, in most cases it's our budgets that prevent us from pursuing those avenues.
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Oct 2, 2018 06:26:58   #
SueScott wrote:
I recently posted this image over at Street Photography and then noticed several white dots on it when viewed in the download. At first I thought it was a dirty sensor, but then examined shots taken immediately before and after this one and no dots were to be found. Any ideas what could have caused them?

Thanks in advance!


Orbs, the spirits of long dead bagpipers...
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Sep 24, 2018 05:36:10   #
Insure your gear. No sense in getting yourself injured over things that can be replaced.
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Sep 21, 2018 06:56:41   #
alx wrote:
Since you seem to be into BIF photography, you might want to think gimbal. See Steve Perry's recent video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wbQgQKqglc. Makes a lot more sense than a ball head for long lens work.

It does make more sense than a ball head, although the OP is talking inexpensive. You'd be hard pressed to find a good quality gimbal for under 200 to 300 dollars. The gimbal head Steve's sporting in the video is a Wimberley, to the tune of 500 to 600 dollars, I pretty sure it's out of her price range.
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Sep 21, 2018 06:44:15   #
SonyA580 wrote:
I've used a small ball head on my monopod for several years and can give you a little advice. They do work well if sized correctly. The smaller ones simply will not stay in place with a large camera and a large lens. I'd get one rated for double the weight of the camera to allow for the weight of a long lens. The nice thing about a ball head is that you can switch the camera from horizontal to vertical format without the monopod being moved. This feature comes in real handy in tight spaces.


Generally use of a monopod is with a camera and large lens combination, the monopod affixes via the foot on the lens collar, no need for a ball head to go vertical, loosen the collar and spin the whole rig to the vertical position.
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Sep 20, 2018 12:06:02   #
Grace98 wrote:
I need some advise please. I recently purchased a Manfrotto Monopod - here's the link to the one I purchased : https://www.jessops.com/search?q=manfrotto+elements+monopod. i'm looking for a ballhead for it but don't know which one to get...don't wish to spend a lot of money, having just purchased a Nikon D7500. Any suggestions please. For the interim, I'm using the ballhead which I had with a Joby GorillaPod SLR-Zoom which fits and seems to work. Any help much appreciated. Thank you...Grace
I need some advise please. I recently purchased a... (show quote)


Rather than a ball head you'd be better served with a tilt head as you can already rotate about the axis of the monopod.
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Sep 20, 2018 06:38:12   #
Jules Karney wrote:
I must on occasion shoot a football or soccer game at the high noon or 1:00. The sunlight is terrible at the time of the day. I am looking for suggestions and comments on what filter to use to minimize those terrible shadows and highlights.
Thanks in advance,
Jules


Hey Jules, In looking at the exif data I can see a few issues with your settings that weren't in your favor, the (ISO 560, f5, 1/2000 and +1.3 exposure comp.), I'd suggest ISO 100, f8 to f11 maybe even as much as f16, 1/3000 - 4000 and no exposure comp., then PP to bring your shadows up. Test your settings for the conditions pre-game, check your histogram and run from there. The D500 is pretty sensitive and has a tendency to blow out the specular highlights, I find it's easier to deal with a little noise in PP should you need to pull your shadows up any significant amount. Shadows are still going to have a hard edge anyway, just the nature of bright sun light. Good luck and keep shooting...
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Sep 18, 2018 06:36:18   #
tuomi1947 wrote:
Has any one used this site and is it worth while ? Any help appreciate, thanks


You may find many UHH hogs have accounts, they do have a free trial period you can take advantage of.
https://rondubreuilphotography.smugmug.com/
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Sep 16, 2018 10:14:36   #
Rebel 1 wrote:
Both are kit lenses 18-55 and 55-200


Based on your lenses you'll definitely need your flash, both are what would be considered relatively slow lenses in the f/3.5 - 5.6 range, not ideal for shooting indoors. At the very least get yourself a mounting bracket to get the flash off the top of the camera and a diffuser/softbox cover for it. You'll be bouncing the light most of the time, the attachments that came with your speedlight will also help in this regard, depending on the ceiling and walls and their color. If you've got the funds get yourself a faster mid-range zoom (f/2.8) or prime 35/50mm 1.8 if you intend some lower light type shots.


Otherwise as suggested, beg off and don't do it as you clearly don't have a bunch of experience in this area based on the question you first posed. If you do decide to move forward with the shoot, good luck and I hope it turns out well.
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Sep 10, 2018 05:01:39   #
Photogirl17 wrote:
All wonderfully done RD..Pg. 6


Thank you PG, I'm glad you like them. I also enjoyed your series from the Old Mill.
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Sep 9, 2018 17:35:15   #
Roadrunner wrote:
Nice, real nice.


Thanks RR, I appreciate it, I hope all is well in Quebec. Recently visited family a couple weeks back up in Facette.
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Sep 9, 2018 17:33:27   #
lhammer43 wrote:
Very nice images, rdubreuil. We've got a black back race of the lessor gold finch down here that visits our thistle seed bag. They are fun to watch when multiples are on the bag.


Thanks lhammer, I'm glad you enjoyed them, gives me encouragement.
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Sep 9, 2018 15:31:33   #
judy juul wrote:
Peonies are just great, Larry! Goldies nice ,too!


Thanks Judy, glad you liked them, much appreciated.
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Sep 9, 2018 15:26:10   #
Sunnybuck wrote:
These are great shot rbubreuil. We have American Gold Finch and Scarlet Gold Finch that winter here. I haven't seen them this summer.


Thank you Sunnybuck, I'm glad you enjoyed them, they are quick little buggers.
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