We were dropping our daughter off for orientation and I was struck how the sun refected off the globe on the left. I pp to get to how I remembered the moment. I left in the flare on the cupola.
I hope I made the file small enough, I think it is too small, I guess we will find out. Snipe away, but be gentle.

Once, with my OMD-1 was doing candids at the wedding of one of my friends and I realized that the motor drive (or I) had advanced the film so that it tore free from the canister. I turned off the camera and took it to the neigborhood photography store and they were able to salvage 11 shots. The bad news was that they were out of focus.
About three years ago, I was taking pictures of some of the Vendors with my Minolta DSLR at a Flea Market; we managed to spent a great deal of time posing them and making sure that the exposure was correct. I checked each shot in the LCD screen before going to the next. The pix were for a monthly publication and the deadline was that day. When I returned to my office i discovered that the Compact Flash Card was sitting in my computer and three hours were wasted looking a the shots from the buffer. Rushed back and reshot what I could, live and learn...

Try brigtening the doors in the first B&W. The pix would now have much more punch. Nice tonal range...

I have the Sigma 10-20 f/3.5 and use primarily for real estate shots. Stopped down slightly it is extremely sharp and easy focus (Sony A mount). I have shot a few landscapes and panaramas with it, you will not be disappointed, but use the hood (protection and flare reduction). I have an UV filter (82mm!) and get occassional flare. I have used Tokina lenses and own a monster 28-70 f/2.8. great lenses, also. I prefer the feel of the Sigma lenses to the Tokinas, but that is very sujective.Sigma is my go to lens maker now. Another lens you might look at is the Sgma 17-70 f/2.8-4.0, a very competent "Contemporary" series lens. I have not used the dock on it. If Adorama or Cameta is the Seller, they usually give a "kit" at the MSP to give better value. Good luck with your lens search.

Amazon has some LED flashlights that have an output as high as 800 lumens, though the ad copy may say 1000 or 1500L. the good news is that are great for light painting or illuminating subjects, and searching one's kit bag.
the brands are: spot w/moderate flood-UltaFire WF502B and for vaiable flood to square(!) spot-UltraFire CREE with a zoom ability. they are not built as well as Fenix, but sell, with charger and rechargeable battery(ies)from $10 to $20 shipped from US and usually arrives in five days or less.

Crop, PP, play and have fun...

When I used my film Olympus cameras I used a motor drive and it was a great help in balance and sequence shooting. I went digital with Minolta 7Ds and kept the factory vertical grip on one body all the time. It added some weight, but I had a more stable body for my shooting. My current Sony 65 does not have a grip available, I do not really miss it. I was at a tennis tournament this past week end and there was a guy with a Nikon B.A. lens on a Nikon camera with verical grip and a glow in the dark Nikon strap. One of the younger players said, "Does that big camera take good pictures?" I have no further comment except for you try to hold an acquaitance's camera with grip; see if you like the heft, stability and ease of Vertical Shooting. (You might go to a Best Buy to demo in the store, if there is not a local camera store near you. Factory prices are the same whether from a store or mail order.

I love mine, the 3.5 10-20. very responsive for grab shots, but i use mine mostly for real estate pictures. Sharp, extremely sharp @ f5.6 & f8. My Sony Alpha has internal IS.

Get a Sony Alpha 77ii or a Pentax with internal IS. Just a thought...

Amazing, how this looks like a Sony lens, LOL.

I dont want to be laughed at, but... if your AOV was somewhat consistant, you could use one of the photo stitiching programs with your original shots. One could resize and try to PP consistant exposure etc. insert in the program and maybe you will get the result you want.
I am referring to MS ICE or othe PP panoramic software. even some collage software might do it for you.

My better half has raced with Fuji bikes for years. They work better than well with easy mantainence. She started out with a steel Fuji that would be about twenty-five years old by now, except a car backed into it with my wife riding. OUCH! Here is a picture, this bike is about eight years old.

My wife's Fuji

(Download)

I own and use one. It is a great camera for action pictures. Your lens will play a major role in satisfactory results. you can start out in SCENE and chose the "running figure". David Busch has two books on this camera that will help you to take pictures to your liking.

I bet that was the cause of the issue. I do not recall checking a box but...? Maybe I did. Thanks for the Info.

Oops, Win 7 and newest iteration of LR CC. Cannot figure out why it occurred, there were other changes to the program as well, I just adjusted those that I could. Darn blue screen drove me nuts. Searcher's suggestion fixed ALL the issues. Thanks for your helpful respose.