If you're doing post processing in Photoshop, familiarize yourself with "Adjustment Layers". There is an Adjustment Layer for most of the "adjustments" (curves, exposure, levels, etc.) and they act as non-destructive versions of the plain adjustment tools of the same name. You can make changes at a later date the same way you do with ACR. You can apply Adjustment Layers to specific layers, or to all layers below the Adjustment Layer. You must save the file as a .psd (Photoshop Document) for these to be preserved.

Flatten means bring all layers into one.
Merge is used when you have various layers selected.

[quote=LFingar]
. . . You realize that your camera will only shoot just under 30 min of video before you have to shut it down and start over, don't you. . . . The restriction is common to all DSLRs so that they don't get classified as video cameras. Import duties, I believe.

That's the first time I'd heard that explanation of the 30 minute limitation. I thought it had to do with the chip overheating.

When you say the reader stops functioning altogether, do you verify with a different format card?
I've had readers quit on me which I "revive" by blasting the interior contacts with air.

I agree on the Nikkormat. I could never get used to the front mounted shutter speed selector ring. It did have 1/125 second flash synch, though. Bought it as a "buddy" for my FTN.

I've been considering the same thing for years. I have an Epson V750 flatbed which is fine for proofing multiple slides or negatives at once, but the resolution is not there for anything useful (IMO) at least not for 35mm. A dedicated film scanner takes too long. The only other option is using a digital camera set up with a copy stage like a Bowens Illumitran. These are hard to find. Last year Pentax announced a film duplicator apparatus which sounded promising - except for the price. I've heard nothing about it since then.

http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2014/04/21/pentax-film-duplicator-helps-you-scan-35mm-and-medium-format-film-quicker

Here's a detailed link on using a Nikon bellows:

http://www.trippingthroughthedark.com/scanning/scanning-35mm-black-and-white-negatives-with-the-d800e/

After all of that bouncing, how did they know Rover would land right side up (wheels on the ground)?

Nikon has announced a mirror less FF (http://petapixel.com/2015/04/21/more-murmurings-of-a-full-frame-mirrorless-camera-by-nikon/) and it looks like it will not have an electronic viewfinder.
If rumors are correct, it will accept F mount lenses, but my question here is whether there should be a separate line of lenses for mirror less. Using a conventional lens on mirror less cameras requires that an extension be placed between lens and body to make up for the added distance a reflex mechanism takes up. This negates part of the advantage of mirror less which is reduction of bulk.

The imprint on the biscuit would be a mirror-reverse of the buckle.

Where is the Hedgehog logo and mascot?

SingleViking,

Thanks for looking further into the product. I didn't see the offer for blanks.
I did actually talk by phone with a sales rep at Norwood some time ago explaining my need. He offered to sell me a dozen "samples" at the high printed rate. I took this to mean over runs. I would have no say as to what was printed on the mugs so I was hesitant. No mention of smaller quantities of blanks at that time.

The other cost with these folks is shipping. You have to buy damage resistant boxes @ $6.25 which hold 16 mugs and weigh - when filled - 30 pounds. For 36 blank mugs, that would be 3 boxes. The costs add up.

It seems like all of the mugs I see are tall and intended for commutes in cars with cup holders. Try using them in a desktop work situation and they tip over at the slightest nudge. There are some wide bottom ceramic mugs out there but none as nice as this one IMO.
If I ever decide to tie up $400 to purchase 36 of these mugs (plain), I'll respond to this thread and see if anyone is interested.

Dale

I'm glad to hear that someone has met their "mug dream".
I know how much the right mug means.

This reply might be construed as "hijacking" the thread, but I figured as long as the readers were at least attuned to the subject I might have a say, in hopes that someone can help me find my dream mug.

I was given a mug years ago which I have considered the best mug for me. It is microwaveable and has a spill proof top, and skid proof bottom. The finish is impervious to stain.
The trouble is, I can't find it anywhere other than through the manufacturer which will not sell individual mugs. They only imprint mugs (minimum 72 @ $9), and the design is proprietary.

If anyone has seen mugs for sale like the one pictured here, let me know. The company is Norwood Promotional Products, the mug is a #45138 Ceramic Travel Mug 18 oz.
http://www.norwood.com/product/45138/Ceramic+Travel+Mug+-+18+oz./

Thanks,
Dale

It does seem unfair, but if it didn't work that way, everybody would be donating services to charities and ending up paying no taxes. A work-around would be to find someone willing donate money to the charity with the understanding that it would be used to contract your services.

I don't think you can deduct the market value of a service, only the actual out-of-pocket expenses you incur such as transportation, materials, film and processing (forget that).

I am interested in hearing more about the electronic view finder. None of the camera shops here (Louisville) carry SONY so I can't "view" for myself. How does the resolution compare to a through the lens DSLR? Also, what's the shutter "lag" with the A6000?

Remember the formula for the area of a circle:
A=∏r² where A is the area and r is the radius of the lens opening (aperture).
If you apply a factor of 2X or 1/2X to the radius, your Area is actually affected by that amount squared - 4X or 1/4X.
Note that the difference between f/2 and f/1.4 is a full stop, and that the square root of 2 (√2) is 1.4. Conversely, (1.4)² is 2.
If you want to double the light passing through a given aperture, you multiply that f-number by √2, or 1.4.