The only answer, in my mind is RAW + Lightroom and this is why: JPEGS are a lossy compression and so throw data away EVERY time the file is opened and closed, even if nothing is done to it - Experiment: Take a camera original JPEG file with some shadows in it(I don't mean Hank Marvin though!!) - make a copy and then open and close the copy in photoshop, doing nothing each time, 20 times. Open both and compare - You will answer your own question then. If you do not want to shoot raw then at least shoot Tiff's as they are a lossless compression. The only need to shoot RAW and basic jpegs at the same time is to proof at an event that you are selling pics at! Hope this helps
Set your camera up on a tripod - Essential, ISO at 50 or 100 - Yes!, Aperture priority on f/16 WB 5600K or overcast daylight. Manual focus. Exposure not on spot metering. Frame the picture and focus. Use the 15/20 m ins before it really gets dark to get a dark blue sky rather than black. Shoot raw and open up the images in a raw file converter and make adjustments to suit. If it is exclusivley the neon tube lit that you are needing then go onto spot metering and set the point of focus/exposure on the tube. Bracket to 1/3 & 2/3 stops under and lift on the computer till you get the result you need. Go for it!
As a Nikon user I would go down that route but would suggest the D800 as the build quality is better (all metal etc) However it is a lot more money. I agree with some of the other comments - so as we say on this side of the pond: "you pays your money and makes your choice" !!
The idea of hiring and getting the feel is a good idea. If you get the Nikon then get the extra battery grip immediatley and it will feel a much better machine.
I have used the Benbo for over 30 years and would not have anything else. The secret to mastering it is not to undo the main bent bolt more than a quarter turn. With one of these you can get your camera from 1" to 8 Ft from the ground in a stable manner and the ground can be as uneven as you like. One of the legs can even be propped against a wall or big rock.
I have photographed offshore powerboat racing for some years and this is what I use in respect of settings - Might seem strange but try it:
ISO - Start at 400 but be prepared to go up.
Lens on autofocus, VR On - handheld, VR off if on a monopod or tripod.
Exposure set at APERTURE PRIORITY - and set the f stop to 2.8 or one stop smaller than the widest that your lens will go.
The camera will now follow focus and choose the fastest shutter speed for you. If this is too slow then go to 800ISO or higher.
Holding the camera - probably teaching you to suck eggs here but thus will make all the difference. Hold the camera with the right hand, index finger over the shutter and fingers wrapped around the grip. The left hand should be palm up under the lens with the base of the camera on the ball of the thumb. Thumb and one finger will then operate the zoom and thumb and another finger will operate the focus if needed. All this with the left hand. You should not have to move hand now when taking photos - tha same is when in portrait mode. Hope this helps. Brian P
It really is worth the money for lightroom 4 - it will do all you need other than creating layers etc. Brian P
Also look at nikonrumours website. Nikon lenses are sharper that Canon - we have done tests. The chip in the Nikons are in the top ten of all - no canons. D800E then D800 then D600 then phase one then D4 down to D3X in 10th place. Ignore ALL ELSE except lens quality and resolution per buck. You will get used to the layout and operating of the camera you choose. You cannot make better images but you can reduce the quality.
See www.nikonrumours.com videos at Photokina - looks pretty good but not a full metal jacket.
Nikon D800E - the best thing since sliced bread
THE BEST: Mac + lightroom = all solved! Simples!!!!!
RAW files are what all cameras create when you take a photo. You can save them as raw or have the camera convert them to TIFF or JPEG files. Some cameras have the option to save as RAW & JPEG. I shoot in the latter mode creating very basic JPEGS for e mailing/proofing etc ONLY. My raw files are imported using the Nikon Programme that came with the D8ooE and automatically opened in Adobe lightroom 4. Adjustments are then made as required and saved as TIFF files (only 8 bit needed for printing). DO NOT SAVE AS JPEGS as they are a lossy compression format. TIFFS are lossless. copy the tiff files at 70dpi to JPEGS for uploading and screen viewing. Hope this helps. Brian PLATT A.B.I.P.P.