I selected the canon 8700 series for fine art paper.

Fall in the Las Vegas desert.

I recommend RAW and jpeg. I'm shooting with a d500. Serious work use the RAW files and tweak them all you want. Then when you have a shot you want to post of FB or one of the other social sites, just pop in the jpeg card and send it as is. Or you can load it into your RAW processor and tweak it if you insist.

Bought one for my 7200, not OEM, and it worked fine, hardly ever used it. It fits on the new d500 but frankly I've never found the need. It's a lot cheaper to drop a spare battery in your pocket and change batteries if necessary.

One has to take everything that you read with two grains of salt. Never just take one review, bias pops up everywhere.

My Tamron 16-300 stays on my camera. 16mm/24 cropped is plenty wide and the 300 zoom/450 cropped is great plus you have all those in between. It's also a micro, focus down to 19 inches.

Settings for Photoshop to manage color
Profile is set for iP8729
Normal printing
Absolute colorimetic
Cannon matt or semi-gloss paper
Computer screen is calibrated.

The pictures print out too dark and I usually have to go in and add about 60 units of brightness to get a suitable print. Matter of fact instead of printing that dark print I just automatically add 60 units of brightness before I start.

Any suggestions other than just winging it?
Thanks

I too live in Las Vegas. Wasn't the rain nice! I shoot a d500 and primarily birds in flight, flowers, animals. The clouds make no difference, it's the amount of light getting to the sensors. On the focus points, you see on the screen 4 corners of the field, there are 9 focus points active. I leave my 16-300 on the camera all the time and shoot single point focus.(150-600 worked fine in Africa) I'm not getting the book out but my memory says the buffer will hold 200 images, get off the shutter for a second and then another 200, etc. I've never had shots turn out black unless I had the shutter speed too fast or ISO too low and not enough light could get to the sensors. Use the histogram for a quick check. If you have problem with camera shake, if you have Photoshop, use shake reduction filter and you will be amazed. Just have enough RAM or it takes awhile. I bought a laptop with 16mb just for that reason. I live up in the northwest, come back with a private message if you want to meet and we can compare notes on the 500. I'm male and retired.

I ran a copy through Photoshop using the "Shake Reduction" filter, cleans up nicely but I don't know how to add the new picture here to show you.

I wonder why no one mentions that a filter feature in Photoshop is "Shake Reduction". I use it on any hand held shooting that I do, it makes a definite difference. On occasion it goes crazy but just run it again after you drag the box to a different location.

Last time I saw Vietnam was in my rear view mirror in 1969. That's the best view, and only view, I want to remember!

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I'm using live view to set up the photo, practice and for the real thing because I'm not an expert either. Thanks for writing.

Well Rongnongno if you want to practice shooting the sun with a flashlight, go ahead but on the 21st the moon will never pass in front of your flashlight. Eh?

I would suggest that if you plan to photograph the eclipse next week, go practice. Here's my results after a lot of tries and adjustments. For starters, Nikon d500, manual focus, (a mountain top 20 miles away) Tamron 16-300 at 250 so that the "f" stop could be set at 40. 1/250, hand held but for the real thing I'll use a tripod. Processed with Photoshop, adjustments to the exposure, vibrance, black, and shake reduction. Cropped to 300ppi For a filter I was using a 4x5 #10 lens from a welding helmet. It provides the UV protection as well as the light reduction. Have fun.

(Download)

For an easy filter, go to one of the hardware stores that sells welding equipment. They sell spare #10 hood lens that work very well. Hold or tape it on the camera lens. $4.00 at Lowes.