Beautiful Marc!
Been wondering how you are doin.

Well, I'm at 20 flats (20ea in L,R,G,B filters), 20 Darks, and 20 bias'. It about creams a 64GB flash drive.
So I ordered a 2 TB portable hard drive to collect these dad burned monster sized fit's files on.
I never have liked fit files.
I made two new Flat file filters for my telescope with 7" embroidery hoops and white linen cloth.
After a bit of trial and error I got NINA Flats Wizard working .
And I've found out I do need to put the cover (Blank) on to get good Dark/Bias files. My previous "dark" files have never been as dark as they are now.
I also did them at the same -15° F as the images. For consistency. (Told you I was anal.)

I spent so many years doing things wrong that I need to format my brain so I can learn the right ways of doing things. But I couldn't do things right with the equipment I began with.
I've been runnin around like a chicken with my head cut off, so haven't made as much progress as I had hoped.
But I do have the LRGB files, and the HA, SII, and OIII. I wanted fresh flats before I try and introduce color channels. And have a good pile of 20 each to shuffle around. (Guessing/hoping 20 would suffice.)

I have the greatest family next door. They tend to stay dark on the backyard when they see my telescope is aiming.
Lately I've been picking my targets very near the Zenith, so my Meridian flip is earlier than before. Once the flip is done, I will go to bed and let the run finish on it's own. So far, so good.
Last night the flip was done before 11 PM (23:00). I'm getting picky about those middle of the night flips.
I'm a grumpy old man.

We have a condominium complex behind us, across the ditch. Those buttworms (management) put in all really bright LED perimeter lighting. At first it was like living close to a prison with it's lights. I put up a 36" wall topper after that and now hide behind my 8' wall in the shade at night.
The out-of-town management are real jerks. But I've out smarted them for now.
I just saw a segment today that the county has enacted controls on light pollution violators. So I may have a shiny new arrow in my quiver.

My currant (and probably last ever) mount has a capacity I will likely never exceed. I'm still using my original Orion guide scope, but an updated (several years ago) guide camera. No lack for strength or rigidity in the rig. Things are rock solid.
I'm at a point I used to dream of. But I still can't post-process worth beans.

But I won't give up...

I will Ballard, Thank You!
Right now I'm taking notes on where I'm messing up. Like running off my flats with a single filter.

My EFW has 8 positions. So in the 8th hole I made a flat black filter from an old filter for a dark position.
I have a Dark, and a Bias programmed using that position (8) and its been working great for those. Just another run in NINA. Shot at the same temperature as the rest (-15 degrees F).

Would you suggest the same -15 for Flats? Just curious, mostly.
I'm a very literal type person and strive for consistency in what I do. (Made me a great worker bee in my trade. But kind of anal about cooking. A cup is 8.0, not 8.1 or 7.9 ounces. And how big are the fingers used for a pinch of salt? )

I am my own worst enemy.

I'm finding multiple places I will fine tune my madness with this method.
I didn't realize I should do my adjustment frames (Darks, Bias, Flats) with the certian filters. My "shortcuts" are most likely stumbling blocks.
It's a great video.
I vill be boch. Got errands to do.

I'm sorry to hear about your bone spur(s) holding you back. I know the pain, I had a bone spur in a shoulder once. Very painful when it would hang up. Now it is Arthritis, but Turmeric has helped a lot with that.
My bone spur finally wore down to the point it isn't debilitating like it was. It still is there, just not the sharp agonizing pop it once was.

I'm currently doing 300 second (5 minute) subs for each channel (HA7nm, SII, OIII), 30 second DARKS, and .001 second BIAS'. And all at 20 images per filter. A random number that has worked.
When I bought my ASI 1600MM I got the Pro model which came with the EFW (Electronic Filter Wheel), a set of filters, LRGB, HA7nm, SII, OIII. My hope was that by getting the set all at once, they might be better matched for focus. And when I tested them they are so close there is no appreciable difference (or offset). (About 7 points from the lowest to the highest. Scores: 905 to 911)
Still, I have my NINA set to refocus every time it changes a filter, and also after each dither (currently dither after 5 images). So it runs a HDR refocus every 5 images.
When I was starting out, I was running my dithers at every 3 images. But it was wasting time, in my opinion, doing too many functions per filter. So I moved my dithering out to 5 images I'm using now.

Why? A legitimate question!

Basically, because I am a very visual learner. If I can't see a result, I work towards getting something I can see.
I use, and have used, Stellarium as my planetary program to decide on an object to image. I was delighted when I learned I could find a star or object in Stellarium, then bring that object or star into NINA as the pinpoint for NINA to solve for. So far it has been pretty amazing to me. Because I go into the Imaging part of NINA and then I can zoom in or out on the current image it has taken. (My visual needs fulfilled.) The better I can see it, the better I can tell if I'm going in the right direction or not. Or if I've overshot my hopeful result.
This same self-taught method applies to to the LRGB filters. But generally they don't offer anywhere near the clarity or definition the Narrowband filters do.

In fact, of all 7 filters, the HA7nm offers the best definition. Craig Fair helped me to learn about the HA7nm filter way back when I was struggling with my Orion camera, which turned out to be horrible. But the HA7nm is a king of filters to bring out reds and sharp images, in my experiences.

I guess my desire to "get it right in the camera", combined with "if I can't see it, I need to tweak it", is what steers me along even still.
Back when I was struggling with everything, and with my first and sub-standard equipment, I had to find ways to make things work. Guiding was one of the early goals, and long exposures were the only way to get something I could see with my crappy camera. But those trials taught me more than I ever knew at the time.

When my friend loaned me an Infinity OSC camera, I got instantly good pictures. Because my guiding was nailed, and my Polar Alignment was better than I thought. But I didn't know because my Orion camera was so poor.
When I finally decided to get the ASI 1600MM, I expected to set myself back because I would have to figure out how to colorize the LRGB images.
But it still eludes me how to flip that switch and get the coloring.

But I'm watching Ballard's talk and think I will find what it is I'm missing. I'm so close, but will find that switch to see a color appear soon.
The narrowband images tell me I have the ducks in a row. I just have to herd them through the channel and colors will magically appear.
It's like a foreign language. I have to take the instruction, and turn it into what I'm working with. It can't be that hard. But I can be that dumb.

OK, back to the struggle.

I hope you can get back out there soon.

Thank You Ballard! I'm watching the Youtube and trying to digest it.

I'd like to but haven't gotten there yet.
I guess I'm going to be forced to buy a program to make my red, green, and blue images series' colored.
I am enjoying the narrow band images (HA, SII, OIII) I'm getting, although monaural B&W and Grey scale. I like how fine the detail is.
I've considered going back to a Color camera, like I used to use. But haven't.
If I get any interference like planes or Musk Trains, I delete those images before stacking.

I have my hardware performing great now. And NINA running the entire operation with me just watching. I choose an area, or a star in an area that is central to what I'd like to capture, and bring is coordinates into NINA's sequencer as my target. Save it as what it is and kick it off.
Last night my meridian flip failed, but when I went out to see what was going on my sky had turned to glowing fog due to the light pollution I have. So I parked the telescope and put everything away.
Sigh! There will be better nights.

But my present stumbling block is how to insert the color channels. And I think my programs I'm using are my problem. Got to bite the bullet and get modern.

Me too. But not holding my breath.
Haven't figured that part out yet.

Thank You!
I did crop it slightly, but nothing else. As imaged and then stacked HA7nm, SII, OIII, Darks and Bias.
Put it together and that's what I got, Bibitty, Bobity, Boo.

Great capture!

No, I haven't. Honestly, I do not know we had a new one in the sky.
If you have a Intervalometer, you can set up and shoot a series of images.
I've done that with my DSLR mounted on my Asto Mount to keep the camera aimed as the comet is visible. You can do the same thing with whatever tripod you have.
I don't recall right off hand what I was using, but 30 second exposures comes to mind. It's long enough to collect the light and more importantly, whatever tail may be recordable.
By using an Intervalometer you can record the stars, with the comet moving in front of them.
Comets are a great object for you to chase. Just play with your settings and find what works best for you.
Good Luck and have fun with it. Please post whatever you can gather.

https://youtu.be/bW1SCH3E4GM?si=xGowW1u5uWIHO0XK

https://youtu.be/0l9eqexZocY?si=cgzJ4lSEiu1pL9NI

https://www.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEB&search_query=Imaging+comets

I just update Stellarium (which I use as my Planetarium software) to include C/2023P1 (Nishimura)

I followed this guy:
https://youtu.be/_eLcfj5ywTs?si=A6rXe5udBzXAyM5P

He's good and goes slow enough that you can follow him. But feel free (if you use this after downloading and installing Stellarium) to pause the video as you make the additions. If the comet isn't already in your program.

Here is more info about it:
https://starwalk.space/en/news/new-comet-c2023-p1

Thank You, Bruce!

Wanted to hang this here to show a friend online.
Narrowband filters HA7nm, SII, OIII, Dark, and Bias frames used.
No processing other than to crop.

As always, feel free to download and process if you'd like. Just a jpg file.

(Download)