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Weight is very important to me. I use my Canon 7D mainly in the studio or for wildlife and sport with a long lens, tripod mounted. For travel I have a Nikon D7k, and the only reason I don't use a D3100/5100 is the viewfinder.

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Glad you all found this informative. Thanks for the comments and replies. Good luck with your entries.

You won't like the answer to that....

From a four thirds sensor you will get a print 7.98 x 10.84 inches which is as near to 8 x 10 as dammit is yo swearing for printing purposes.

An APS-C or a full frame sensor will give you an aspect ratio of 3:2. That would mean an 8X12 inch print. To obtain an 8x10 inch print, you would have to crop an inch off either side or two inches off the long side in total. A four-thirds sensor has an aspect ratio of exactly that, 4:3, which will give you an 8X10 inch print without any cropping. If you send an image file to a lab for printing, and you don't edit the file beforehand to the correct print size, the lab's equipment will usually crop the file in an arbitary manner to fit the print.

Use the search function above, and search for "Print sizes" and "Aspect ratio"

This may also help:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-103643-1.html

It has nothing to do with DX and FX. The image size is in pixels, width and height, irrespective of what type of camera was used. The ratio of the width to the height in pixels is the aspect ratio. You have to crop your image to suit the aspect ratio of the print that you want.

Some of the older third party Canon EF mount lenses (Sigma, Tamron, Tokina) may not work properly with the newer Canon camera bodies because the communication "chip" may not be compatible. The lens would have to be re-chipped, but I doubt that there are still chips available.

Then keep 'em and use 'em....

Nikon should give a round-trip ticket to a hazardous destination of your choice, away free with the camera.

Does your local college or high school have a photo school?

There are two important optical effects that lenses that are specifically designed for digital use, reduce or eliminate. One is ghosting, which is caused by light reflecting back and forth between the sensor and the rear element of the lens. Digital lenses have a coating on the rear element, as well as some internal elements, that absorbs most of this reflected light to reduce or eliminate ghosting, resulting in a higher contrast image. The other is linear chromatic abberation, commonly called blue, purple, yellow or red fringeing, which is a colour effect along high contrast edges in the image. This can be corrected in post processing, and is still a problem in some digital lenses. Dust sealing is also something that the designers of digital lenses pay attention to, even if the lens is not "weather sealed." On a digital lens steps will be taken to reduce the "air pump" effect of the zoom mechanism to reduce the amount of dust that can be sucked into the camera. Film camera lenses paid little heed to this.

With which camera?

Sounds like "I want to be a professional, what settings do I use?" to me.