That’s unnecessary and may well be incorrect - you don’t know the circumstances.

I’m struggling with the the use of the word inverter. By definition, an inverter converts DC to AC and many/most inverters use PWM to regulate the AC voltage produced. The power supply in a microwave is a common rectifier (AC to DC). As you say, the AC to the HV transformer is pulsed to vary the “on time” or pulse width (PWM) of the magnetron, but there is no conversion from DC to AC, which is why I am confused by the use of the term. Panasonic may call it an inverter microwave, but by the strict definition of an inverter, that isn’t accurate, hence my problem with the word in that comtext.

What does that mean?

Bill, you and I have had this discussion before (a number of times) and no one doubts your credibility, skill and experience as a professional. I understand your photos were good enough to sell and satisfy clients - my question to you is have you ecpver tried calibrating a lens/camera combination to see if it could make your images sharper (with an AF DSLR)?

Maybe now because of encroachment into South China Sea and historically when Vietnam was part of China, but not during the Vietnam war with the US. Per Wiki:

“ China's arms shipments to Vietnam included 270,000 guns, over 10,000 pieces of artillery, 200 million bullets of different types, 2.02 million artillery shells, 15,000 wire transmitters, 5,000 radio transmitters, over 1,000 trucks, 15 planes, 28 naval vessels, and 1.18 million sets of military uniforms."[3]: 359  It was China’s aid to North Vietnam from 1955 to 1963 that effectively gave the North the resources needed to begin the insurgency in the South.[7]: 215 ”

[quote=John Matthews][quote=BebuLamar]I found that the US did too much for the French. After saving them from Germany, the US let the French went back and occupied Vietnam again and that's how the war started. If the US didn't let the French went back and let Vietnam be independence they would not be a communist country and there would be no war.[/quote

Why would you think Vietnam would not have become a communist country? I think they likely would have sooner (not saying good or bad).[/quote]

I agree. Ho Chi Minh, who formed the Viet Minh, to fight for independence from the French was inspired by the Bolshevik Revolution and Lenin - he was oriented to Communism from the very beginning and supported by The USSR and China, and his goal was to overthrow emperor Bo Dai who ruled in the south. Communism was inevitable. The war only delayed it. The US can’t be blamed for communism in Vietnam. Even if Woodrow Wilson had supported the revolution led by “Uncle Ho”, it’s hard to imagine that he would have steered the country toward Democracy. Vietnam (formally Indo China) had nothing in common with the US and everything in common with China.

Goncha

In the early days of Windows that would work, but not any more. An application needs the appropriate entry in the registry as well as information in the program data files. If you don’t want to reinstall everything, make a clone of the drive.

After writing this, I see it’s already been mentioned. Sorry.

Yep, you’ve got to be very careful sharing your genetic information on sites such as 23 and Me - it can lead to unpleasant surprises.

I would venture to say that a large majority (likely most) of those drafted to serve in Vietnam and the American public at the time didn’t understand the background or reasons for the war. I know I didn’t. I didn’t understand the history of Vietnam until I retuned from the war in ‘69 and studied it in depth in college. How many Americans or Vietnam vets do you suppose ever read the Geneva accords or understood that originally Ho Chi Minh asked President Woodrow Wilson for help and was ignored?

My mother came from a large Tobacco farming Virginia family and had 8 brothers serving in WWII at the same time, and amazingly, they all returned alive. My Father in Law was an officer and spent the entire war on destroyers in the Pacific and was at some of the worst battles in the Pacific. He had great respect for the Navy and stayed in the reserves until he retired as a Commander. On his death bed while receiving the last rites, the Priest said: “you must be proud of your military service”, to which my father in law replied: “war is nothing to be proud of”.

Can’t resist commenting that the most vociferous voices against calibrating DSLR lens have never tried it, or magically, never had a lens/camera combination that front or back focused (or that they noticed). As to the classic objection that you can do more harm than good, the answer is simple - if you don’t like the result, just turn it off! Isn’t surprising that if this feature were unneeded or dangerous, that major camera manufacturers included it?

Right answer - no need for a cable.

Lens calibration on DSLRs is another long standing UHH discussion akin to JPEG vs raw, Mac vs PC, primes vs zooms, etc. With Mirrorless bodies, it’s not typically an issue, but with DSLRs, some pros do it religiously and some don’t. There are many ways to do it, but most require some subjective judgement by the user. One system that doesn’t is Riekan’s Focal - it provides a clear graph of acuity vs calibration or acuity vs fstop. Regardless whether you calibrate or not, it’s a great tool to tell objectively if a lens is up to snuff and where it’s the sharpest. I test all my lenses with it, whether DSLR or MILC, so I KNOW exactly what the acuity of each lens is and where it’s the sharpest. And for my DSLRs, I calibrate all my lenses, and I’ve found that the vast majority need some correction. What YOU do, is up to you.

Let me clarify. I do my raw conversion and editing in Capture One when I shoot Fuji XTrans and have found that the Denoise and Sharpen step of the latest version of Topaz Photo AI are superior to those functions in Capture One. BTW I didn’t buy Photo AI. Years ago I bought Topaz Sharpen, Denoise and Gigapixel (at a discount) and have been keeping them updated. Some time ago Topaz gave me Photo AI at no charge, and to my surprise, I’ve been able to update it without charge (so far). At the time I purchased them, the Original Topaz products were superior to the other sharpening and Denoise products I tested. Since then, I understand that other editors such as PS/LR have improved, but since I'm now standardized on a Capture One workflow, I can’t comment on that.

I have recently compared results of some soft images using Sharpen AI and Denoise AI with multiple adjustments vs just opening them in Photo AI and not adjusting anything and found the results in Photo AI superior in terms of lack of artifacts. I would refer to that is “one and done” regarding sharpening and Denoise. There are adjustments in Photo AI, I just found that in most cases, the parameters chosen by the app were as good or better than my manual adjustments . That DOESN’T mean that’s the only editing I do to my images.

Thanks Bill for the detailed response. I have a well ventilated darkroom with temperature controlled water bath for chemicals and temp controlled rinse in my washer. I have developed both E6 and C41 before and completely agree on the bleach or blix of the 3 or 4 step (plus rinse) of the chemistry I’ve previously used - nasty stuff. I haven’t done any color since the Cibachrome process became obsolete, but since I have a bunch of 120 Fuji NPS and Velvia in the fridge, I wondered if the blix in this 2 part process was as bad.

I also agree that dust during film drying is a real issue (I have a drying cabinet). That’s one of the reasons I like working with the larger negative of MF - a spec of dust isn’t quite the disaster it is on 35mm. When I was in VietNam and using the large PIO darkroom, we had a combat photographer run some Ektachrome E6 film and hung it to dry overnight. That night after hours, the “Mama San” came in and swept the floor which trashed the film. The photographer’s comments on seeing the disaster the next day are unprintable on this forum.

Cheers,
Chris