Chief EW wrote:
I tried turning the OS switch to off and it stop the whirling noises and vibrations. Thank you for the advice
I just pulled this from the very hard to read (small print) manual:
Quote:
ABOUT OS (OPTICAL STABILIZER) FEATURES
This OS (Optical Stabilizer) lens effectively compensates for image blurring caused
by camera shake. Set the OS (Optical Stabilizer) switch to Mode 1 (fig.5). Press the
shutter button halfway down, confirm the image in the viewfinder is stable then
take the picture. (It takes approximately 1 second to produce a stable image, after
pressing the shutter button halfway). Mode 2, detects the vertical camera shake,
and overcomes blurring. It is effective on subjects moving horizontal to the camera.
Please do not use Optical Stabilizer in the following situations.
When the lens is mounted on a tripod. Bulb (long time exposure).
Although the viewfinder image may appear to shake immediately after shooting
and at the start of the flash charge cycle of the built-in flash of the camera etc., it
will not cause any effect on pictures.
If the camera power is turned off or lens is detached while the Optical Stabilizer
function is in operation, the lens may emit a chattering noise, but this is not a
malfunction.
For Nikon and Canon mounts, the Optical Stabilizer (OS) function will not work
with film SLR cameras except Nikon F6 and Canon EOS-1V.
ABOUT OS (OPTICAL STABILIZER) FEATURES br This OS ... (
show quote)
I have that same lens but don't recall ever having that kind of issue (or if I did it wasn't enough to get my attention). Sounds like it might be something to do with the IS (called OS on that lens). I have a Canon 300mm f/4 Prime lens that makes a good deal of noise when I have the IS turned on. Have you tried turning off image stabilization to see if you still get that vibration and noise?
gwilliams6 wrote:
How Many Megapixels Do You Need? | Ask David Bergman from Adorama Camera.
A good explanation of megapixels, resulting image quality, print size requirements, optimum viewing distance and more .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_gtjudp9dY
Do yourself a favor and actually watch the video before commenting.
Cheers and best to you all.
I watched the entire video. Agree with everything he said.
My first full frame camera was a Canon 6D @ 20.2MP. This camera really was great value for the money and had terrific low-light performance. I did occasionally run into situations where I had to crop so much that the 20MP wasn't enough. It did happen once in a while and I though it would have been nice to have more MP.
My second FF camera was the 30.4MP 5D Mark IV. OMG, was that a nice camera! For stills photography I honestly only ran up against cropping situations where I felt I needed more pixels maybe a handful of times. It really was a terrific camera and I hated to part with it.
My current camera is the Canon R5 with its 45MP sensor. Now, do I "need" 45 MP. Definitely not, but it is nice insurance in the event I do need to do some aggressive cropping. But the true advantages with the R5 over the 5D4 are more related to video capability. With the 5D4, I could shoot 4k at 30fps, but the R5 will shoot 4k at 120fps (which I love) and ever 8k (which I've never used yet). I also like some of the improved technology in the R5, especially related to the Auto Focus system. I also like that it has a "crop" mode that allows me to shoot like I was using an APS-C camera and still get reasonable MP. Also, the R5 is a lot smaller and lighter. But if the R5 had "only" been 30MP, I don't think it would have ever been an issue based on my experience with the 5D4. So, if I were asked how many MP do I "need" I'd probably say I "need" probably in the area of 24MP, but I still like having more to have the flexibility for more aggressive cropping, if needed.
MJPerini wrote:
In A & B the bird is flying into the edge of the frame, looks like missed framing
In C & D the bird is flying into open sky, looks like he has somewhere to go, Better
Since our culture tends to "read" left to right, D works best for me.
It's sort of a Photo 101 exercise, but a good one
I agree except to say C works better for me. As I naturally scan to the right. I’m lead to the bird. I can’t say why but subjects on the right, flying into the frame just looks better to me.
Congratulations Henry! Enjoy your retirement! Now you’ll need to take up a hobby to stay busy. I hear photography is fun!
clemente21 wrote:
I checked the site and did not get any alarms of malware. Otherwise, I would not have posted.
With respect, the fact it didn’t set off any alarms doesn’t mean there couldn’t be malware. Those guys are very clever and there is new malware hitting the net everyday.
Basil wrote:
I would not click that link. High probability you could pick up malware.
In fact, I'd suggest the OP remove that link lest some unsuspecting person click it. Seriously - it's probably a malware site and you can describe the issue without posting the link.
I would not click that link. High probability you could pick up malware.
Samsung 990 Pro in appropriate high speed enclosure.
I own the Sunwayfoto GH-PROii+. The "plus" version differs from the original GH-PROii that you (OP) mentioned in that the "+" version has an additional geared adjustment in the top portion of the head to allow for micro-adjustments in the panning movement at the top of the head. Of course you can still pan from either the base or the upper head with the non-+ version, but it's nice to have that extra geared knob at the top for small panning adjustments. Other than that it is the same as the non-+ version with the same max load. I could not find the + version on BH nor Amazon, but got mine at Adorama. If you're considering the GH-PROii, you might want to also look at the + version. It's a little bit more money ($55 more at Adorama) but I think that extra geared adjustment for the panning motion is worth it.
Now, as to the question of whether it would work with a "DSLR" (unspecified weight) and a Tamron 150-600. The advertising on Adorama says load capacity up to 10 lbs (I know the published specs says 8.0 lbs). I can only tell you that I have used it with my R5 with a Sigma 150-600 attached and it seems to handle that set up with no issues, even when the lens is fully zoomed out. (I mount it on the lens foot not the camera to keep the CG a bit closer to center) I'll attach a picture of this setup. My combo, with an EF-RF adapter on the lens and ProMediaGear L-bracket attached, weights about 6.2 lbs, which is within the 10lbs advertised max load (and even within the 8.8 max load in the spec sheet). I would suggest that you look at the weight of your specific camera and lens combo. If it is within the advertised weight I'd think you should be ok, but as others have suggested, you might want to make sure you can return it if not completely happy.
Now, that said, I would suggest that a geared head is probably not the best choice for a large zoom lens. Yes, I have used it, but honestly I prefer using my gimbal or a sturdy ball head with my big Sigma lens. I really purchased the gear head for landscapes with much smaller lenses. Yes, I have had the larger lens on the GH-PROii+ and didn't have any particular issues, but I'd really be concerned about the long term effect on the wear and tear on the gears.
I hope this helps.
For travel, I use a couple of SanDish Extreme Pros. They are adequately fast and fairly rugged so I'm not worried about tossing them in a bag. For home use, after a lot of research, I built my own 2TB SSD using the Samsung 990 Pro and an ORICO 40GBps NVMe SSD enclosure. This is where I keep all my photos and videos and it is crazy fast (nearly as fast as my M1 iMac built in SSD).
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1726548-REG/samsung_mz_v9p2t0b_am_2tb_990_pro_pcie.html
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B14SN11K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I just learned that one of my favorite landscape night sky photographers and YouTube personalities, Alyn Wallace, has passed away. Don’t know the details, but he was a fairly young guy. Really sad to hear this news.
I learned a great deal from his channel about milky way photography and even bought two of his Z-brackets sold through MSM. His Milkyway videos were always well done and informative.