Most HDR shooters set the camera in aperature priority. Set up exposure bracketing over whatever range you like, usually -2, then 0 then +2, self time on 2 seconds or cable release and continuous shooting mode and then the camera fires a series of 3 shots. If you are shooting in a low light situation doesn't this continuous action create camera shake? Doesn't the mirror flopping up and down add shake? Also you can't use mirror lock up with this technique.
On the other hand, you could set the camera to manual, use mirror lock up and change the exposure by manually changing the time value for each shot and using single shot not continuous. You could still use the 2 second delay. Of course movement of the camera could be introduced when you change the time value.
What do you think? And, what has been your experience?
Steve
edh
Loc: Oregon North Coast
Stevieboy wrote:
Most HDR shooters set the camera in aperature priority. Set up exposure bracketing over whatever range you like, usually -2, then 0 then +2, self time on 2 seconds or cable release and continuous shooting mode and then the camera fires a series of 3 shots. If you are shooting in a low light situation doesn't this continuous action create camera shake? Doesn't the mirror flopping up and down add shake? Also you can't use mirror lock up with this technique.
On the other hand, you could set the camera to manual, use mirror lock up and change the exposure by manually changing the time value for each shot and using single shot not continuous. You could still use the 2 second delay. Of course movement of the camera could be introduced when you change the time value.
What do you think? And, what has been your experience?
Steve
Most HDR shooters set the camera in aperature prio... (
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Good question. I bet you would get some responses if you posted to the HDR forum. Judging from the shots I've seen, there's a lot of experience there.
Thanks. I thought that was only for before and afters
I normally use a tripod, 2sec timer EV O, EV + 7 and EV -7 shoot in RAW.
However depending on the subject, I also shoot a single shot and duplicate the image and change the EV with software. That's the way this one was done. The reason for this is the clouds are moving real fast, so if you have a delay in the next shot the clouds would not be in the same place causing the sky to be in a little blur.
Stevieboy wrote:
Thanks. I thought that was only for before and afters
I see that you have posted same question in the HDR Forum. You should receive a knowledgeable discussion there:
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-60087-1.html
I like this result. It is representative of the scene as originally seen by the photographer, IMHO. I am not a purist. No do I object to the more graphic, creative, creations of others wit artistic approaches. But I do prefer the "more realistic" view (with a little "kick" to help the cameras rendition.
Joe :thumbup: :thumbup:
HOT Texas wrote:
I normally use a tripod, 2sec timer EV O, EV + 7 and EV -7 shoot in RAW.
However depending on the subject, I also shoot a single shot and duplicate the image and change the EV with software. That's the way this one was done. The reason for this is the clouds are moving real fast, so if you have a delay in the next shot the clouds would not be in the same place causing the sky to be in a little blur.
The problem I see with this system is that you are not capturing the full spectrum of light as you would in a true HDR. You are simply fooling the software into producing HDR. While this will work in a well lit situation as your example. It would not be effective in a harsher lighting environment, where there was a great difference in the foreground and background and where you would get either blown highlights if you expose for the ground or lose the ground in shadows if you expose for the sky.
Sure it would, I can change the environment to anything I wish. I can make ten copies and change it to what ever I wish, to make a HDR for my liking.
HOT Texas wrote:
Sure it would, I can change the environment to anything I wish. I can make ten copies and change it to what ever I wish, to make a HDR for my liking.
Exactly but each copy is going to contain exactly the same information except for the exposure information. If the sky is blown in one it is blown in all 10 or 50 if you like. You cannot reclaim that information and you can't use it if it does not exist.
That's what makes a HDR is changing the exposure, if I shoot in RAW and the sky is blown out, I can change it.
No what makes HDR is capturing the different amounts of light at different exposures. Not capturing the light at one exposure and the changing the value in the computer to fool a program. It simply is not the same. The information is exactly the same information only brighter or darker. The tonal ranges does not change. By the way if you shoot in raw and the sky is really blown out you can't change it. If the information doesn't exist processing raw will not put it there. I shoot raw almost exclusively as most of my work is landscape and if a sky is really blown it just does not exist.
You are absolutely right on different amounts of light, but don't tell me I can't change the exposure.
I also didn't say that this is the way to do it, I was just showing this is the it can be done with excellent results.
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