jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Spot

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

Spot, usually, on the main subject. Landscapes, matrix

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

My choice of what meter to use is usually based on the subject but I can tell you right now that matrix is my least used exposure metering mode. I like to be in control and I feel more confortable with center weighted and spot metering. I know how they work and that is what I have been using for years.
Matrix has its place with me like when I cannot plan the exposure or when things are happening so fast that there is no time to think. Matrix makes the exposure on its own. I recommend to check the histogram to make sure the exposure is what the operator wants.
I find myself using spot metering more often today than I do the other metering modalities.

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

I use an external light meter for ambient light readings and usually underexpose for the sky.

Siemienczuk

Matrix as default, but Pv button (D7200) repurposed to Spot for use when needed, then main (thumb) command wheel repurposed to exposure compensation when needed, either intuitively or based on Spot reading.

bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA

I usually use spot metering unless it is a situation where it is not practical. I use a handheld incident light meter or flash meter when shooting in a studio.

timcc Loc: Virginia

Normally, on my Sony I use large flexible spot, placed slightly off-center on the EVF. This allows for focusing on a specific area off-center to minimize re-composing. I'll adjust the location of the spot when needed. I rarely use matrix unless shooting a landscape where there is not a primary focal point.

BJW

Used to use spot metering on my Nikon D500. But I wasn’t happy with it for sports photography, especially ice hockey. Then I read Steve Perry’s eBook on The Secrets of Nikon’s Auto Focus System and have been using the 3D metering mode. I find he’s right. This is a better mode for quick action sports with the face recognition enabled, I get good facial features, through the face guard. Facial expressions of hockey players can be priceless. Best to use with BBF.

Stanmckinney

Matrix for photojournalism.

PhotosBySteve

I have both my DSLR'S and my mirrorless all set to spot metering and manual mode. When I prepare for a shot I first focus on my subject using BBF then half press the shutter and center the meter by adjusting either the time value, aperture and/or the ISO dependent on the subject and type of image desired. I then check the histogram for proper exposure and clipping of highlights and/or shadows then readjust settings as necessary. I then refocus using BBF and take the shot.
I then look at the histogram again for final verification and then readjust settings if necessary. My exposure is now set for the scene. If indoors I will not have to readjust exposure for future shots. If outdoors, I seldom have to readjust exposure unless there are clouds moving across the sun or I step into or shoot into or out of the light. It will usually take no more then 1-5 seconds for the initial setup and 90% of the time I nail the shot and exposure with the first shot within milliseconds.
I have been using this technique both personally and professionally for many years with a 99.9% success rate. That in itself makes the culling process difficult, due to the lack of rejects.
I will also add the fact that I always use single point focus when using AF and will generally focus and decompose. I use manual focus about 80% of the time with my mirrorless and about 1% of the time with my DSLR'S. I also shoot strictly RAW for all three bodies, allowing for a much wider dynamic range from what the meter and histogram shows.
I also use single shot mode 99.9% of the time. Even when shooting sports. I will use external lighting when necessary and when allowed. Otherwise I will crank my ISO as much as necessary to obtain the proper exposure and sometimes open the aperture further then desired or decrease time value less then desired, all to achieve proper focus. I have found over the years that the image will have far less noise when properly exposed, regardless of how high the ISO is. I have even used an as high as ISO of 24,600 with good results.
Back to metering choice. If I am shooting a extreme wide dynamic range scene. I will sometimes take three different meter readings and note the difference of each then adjust accordingly for a well balanced shot, which will be evident by way of the histogram. I rarely have the need for bracketed shots anymore for HDR, when using one if my full frame bodies.

jimbuckley Loc: Arizona

Oh, and in a pinch, spot metering green grass or the back of your hand oriented like the incident meter....

DHooch

The only issue with spot metering is what Ansel Adams described in his Zone System, that an exposure meter or camera wants to meter like an 18% gray card. So, you have to be aware of the value of the area you target with the spot meter. I use spot, when appropriate and matrix most of the other time. I very seldom use center-weighted metering. My camera does a very good job of averaging the scene, to get a pretty good image every time. The exceptions, of course, are backlit and very contrasted scenes, such as spotlighted stage photos.

Siemienczuk

Yes. For example a Caucasian face should generally be set to Zone VI. The spot meter will default to Zone V. So we would need a little more exposure if this face is the primary subject. Other more extreme examples include spot meter readings of anticipated highlights, to make sure they aren't blown out. I would certainly not allow the meter to set highlights at Zone V, but I can at least make sure they don't exceed Zone VIII.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Spot. I measure the highlight I want detail in, then add 1.5 to 2 stops. It works 100% of the time.

a6k Loc: Detroit & Sanibel

For a camera with live view such as all The Sony mirrorless and even The Sony bridge cameras, using spot and also AEL when appropriate (a button on the back) you can quickly get an exposure that looks right and usually with no chimping needed. Often, a half-push on the shutter both focuses and sets exposure but sometimes I need to have some distance between them.

As Gene51 points out, you can also, time allowing, meter a highlight area and manually compensate. However, rather than his approach I'd be more likely to watch for the live view's Zebra stripes which I calibrated under controlled exposure and testing at home and with many viewers and editors to evaluate the results including, of course, RawDigger and FastRawViewer which can be used to find and see where overexposure happens and to what extent.

I don't know if other mirrorless cameras have that advantage but I'd think it likely.