Weddingguy wrote:
When using flash there are only TWO camera settings that affect exposure . . . ISO which is generally not an adjustment used from one image to the next, but is set according to the light situation at the moment. For best quality the ISO should be kept as low as possible for all situations.
The only other camera setting that affects exposure is the aperture. At a setting of F/16 or F/20 few flash units would have enough power beyond 5-7 feet.
Some of you are thinking that I have missed the FEC (Flash Exposure Compensation) setting, but that is really more of a flash unit setting than a camera setting.
For wedding and other event photography, where under time pressures, little time is allowed for multiple setting changes and test shots, we have always used settings that allow as much latitude as possible to handle different subject distances, room conditions, lightness or darkness of subjects (think black tuxedos and white wedding gowns).
Most flash units (speed lights) are automatic today, and while using them in TTL, it is unwise to have the camera set at any automatic setting including Auto, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, Program, etc. The camera in any auto setting sets the exposure based on the existing light BEFORE the flash fires. Indoors the result is almost always the too high of an ISO setting, aperture wide open, and/or slow shutter speeds as the camera tries to compensate for too little light for a proper exposure. By putting the camera on Manual, the existing (ambient) light is ignored, and the flash does it's own auto setting to achieve correct exposure up to it's power capability. Having both the camera and flash set to automatic confuses both the camera and flash and forces it to go beyond it's exposure analysis capabilities. The main result is inconsistency at best.
I know there are many ways to "skin a cat", but here is how we have been doing it for over a decade of digital wedding coverage, with results of over 95% success on exposure.
ISO 400 on all indoor flash shots . . . dropped to 100 outdoors with bright sun and 200 on cloudy days.
Shutter speed of 1/200 second to prevent camera/subject movement recorded from ambient light
Aperture F/4.5 for one or two subjects . . . moved to F/6.3 for groups and close in of three or more people for greater DOF
Because the flash TTL has latitude limitations, if, with those setting, shots are taken so close that the shot is over exposed . . . or so far away that shots become under exposed (when checked with histogram), we make temporary adjustments using the FEC. I should also add that we have always used Lite-Scoops on our speed lights that seem to disperse the light reducing the sudden drop-off of light. This seems to reduce the critical flash to subject exposure experienced with straight-on flash.
Sorry I couldn't give you an easy one sentence answer to your question. Hope that helps.
When using flash there are only TWO camera setting... (
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👍👍. I always shoot manual with a flash. But why do you always use ISO 400 indoors?