BIGRO Loc: NYC

Posted this earlier and NMGal suggested I check my DOF. Can anyone of you provide feedback so i can get better?

(Download)

wayne barnett Loc: Grants Pass, Oregon

Need details of what this was shot at, f stop, focal length, distance to subject.

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

Other shooting conditions too. I can't see exif data, so I would like to know what the camera is. It seems rather grainy, and not much is in focus. Is this hand held?.

BIGRO Loc: NYC

Handheld, canon 77d, 100mm, manual
Maybe a couple inches away trying to catch picture while rocking back in forth, iso 100, shutter 200 wide open, not on tripod and unprepared for cold, spur of the moment thing

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

Ok, I don't know your background so please forgive me if I say things that are not necessary.
Wide open aperture is the problem, as the depth of field is super thin and I am not sure if this lens (100mm macro?) is that sharp wide open. Other settings seem fine. I expect your lens will be at its sharpest at f/6 or f/8, though for this kind of photography we generally don't take advantage of that for single shots as the depth of field is still very shallow. Smaller apertures are more common for this sort of thing.
To repeat your experiment, go with an aperture of f/11 - f/14. You can try f/16 if its really bright. If you are going for the smaller apertures (giving greater depth of field) you will definitely need to shoot in good light, and if so I think you can get this without using the flash. The slowest shutter speed for hand held with this lens should be 1/100, no slower, though technically this 'rule' can be bent sometimes. 1/200 shutter speed was good, but you can sneak in a slower shutter speed if that helps exposure. Your ISO could be 200 or 400, which ever gives a good recording without blowing out white. I would not worry about sensor noise, giving the subject is very bright. Check your pictures on the lcd screen with the setting that shows the histogram, and look for blinkies that show blown out highlights.
These settings should put you on the road to taking a good picture.
Are you thinking of taking pictures of individual snowflakes? That would be interesting!

Dik

In the situation described, I'd use the highest ISO that yields modest noise. Maybe 1600-3200 with a 77D.
Aperature f/4, and let the camera pick a shutter speed. Shoot in manual mode, continuous shooting, and hold down the shutter button as you slowly rock forward to shoot all areas in focus.
Then stack the shots in Helicon Focus, or Serene Stacker (Free 30 day trial).
Do noise reduction and sharpening after focus stacking.

Practice on something indoors to polish your movement technique, then repeat the process many times, on anything good.

BIGRO Loc: NYC

Thank you both, really appreciate the help, now I have to wait till the next it snows, lol

clickety

With your camera a 100mm lens at F4 held two feet from the subject has a depth of field (sharpest focus) of only 0.2 inch.
I think a larger problem in your example is the minimum focus distance is around one foot for that lens. At a couple inches it cannot focus on your subject. Also smooth, glistening, monochrome subjects are among the hardest subjects for autofocus to lock on.
Hope this is helpful.

Nikonian72 Loc: Chico CA

You are confusing Focus Distance (sensor to subject) with Working Distance (lens front element to subject). Minimum WD for a Canon 100-mm lens is approximately 6-inches. Minimum Focusing Distance is about 12-inches.

clickety

Thank you, for catching that. Just another reason I shouldn't multitask anymore. 🤥
The OP wasn't specific on distance so it still may be playing a role in the lack of focus.

BIGRO Loc: NYC

Sorry as to not being able to be specific, catching this photo in the wild is not easy as only a few seconds before melting, not in a controlled environment where I have time to sit there and really focus or take my time , was all about getting the shot in itself. I appreciate all help, thanks