Pablo8 wrote:
This question comes up regularly. I am sure, given that you have been looking in on this site since 2016, you will have seen many answers to your own oft-repeated question. Possibly many answers will follow my post. I use one on most lenses . Have done since 1956.
It always amazes me that people are happy to shoot a zoom lenses having 20 or 30
surfaces but worry about a thin, flat piece of glass having only 2 surfaces!
Man, is marketing powerful! If UV filters cost $5000, everyone would wish they could
afford to buy one.
A UV filter (or plain glass filter, for that matter) can both hurt and help image quality--
but not by much. The only hurt is a tiny reduction in transmitted light (caused by
specular reflection) -- which can be greatly reduced by buying a coated filter. The
benefits of having a UV filter are considerable--and rarely discussed.
A UV filter is just a thin, flat piece of UV-asborbing glass.
Since it doesn't focus an image, it cannot suffer from any of the five aberrations
of Seidel, or from chromatic aberration. Since the filter's only aperture is its pupil --
very large as apertures go--the amount of diffraction is very small. It's as close to
as it gets to a "perfect lens".
Your camera lens does not contain any perfect elements. It does contain a number
of thick, spherical elements that create aberrations. It has other elements designed to
correct or partially-correct some of these aberrations. But the optical system isn't
completely corrected for all aberrations--that's impossible.
The camera lenses that come closest to "perfect" (diffraction-limited) performance are
long prime focus lenses. Except for their slowness, these are the best performing lenses
in anybody's catalog -- and also the simplest designs. But if you're shooting a zoom or
super wide angle, well, the filter is the
least of your optical quality problems. These
designs are all a compromise: the lesser of a bunch of optical evils.
And a camera lens does contain an aperture. At f/11 or narrower, diffraction becomes
significant (on miniature format = "full frame" cameras).
The surfaces in a modern camera lens are mutli-coated. Coatings reduce but do not
not eliminate reflection. The more internal sufaces, the more reflection. And coatings
do absorb some of the transmitted light (and more than glass does).
So an uncoated UV filter costing $10 is optically superior to a $10,000 Nikon or
Canon zoom lens (with lots of surfaces). And $20, you can get a mutli-coated
UV filter that is as close to a perfect optical system as you will find on earth.
The fact that the filter isn't optically flat makes no measurable difference. (But if you
want to buy a 10 nm optical flat filter--go right ahead.)
Since it's thin and only a single element, a UV filter won't cause visible flare nearly
as bad as the front element of the lens. Nor can it cause as much invisible flare and
contrast reduction.
So if you have to have a bright light (e.g., the sun) from outside the angle-of-view
(e.g, the sun) striking your camera, it is better that it fall on a coated filter than directly
on the front element of the lens. Try it, you'll see: lenses flare much worse than
filters do.
Light striking the filter at greater than its
critical angle will be totally
reflected and not enter the lens. This is a big benefit.
The front element of your lens is convex. This means that light striking
the sides of the lens more squarely than if it were a flat piece of glass.
So more of the light from outside the angle-of-view will be below
the critical angle and thus be transmitted into the lens, where it will
cause flare and reduce contrast. Again, the filter is a benefit.
It also extends the lens barrel a little bit, like a lens hood. This is a benefit
tht can be quite significant. Outdoors shooting towards the sun, any lens
hood is better than none.
If you use a lens hood over the filter, and the filter is shaded, then
flare is not a problem. The coating only helps by very slightly
increasing the amount of light transmiteed (by a small fraction of a stop).
Coating also absorb a bit of the light transmitted though them.
In that situation, you will not be able to tell the difference beween an
uncoated filter and a coated one -- there may not even be a difference.
Your lens
was designed to be used with filters. That is why it has a
threaded filter ring on the front. It is why Nikon and Canon sell filters
intended to be used with their lenses.
Now here's the ironic part: many modern lense use optical cement that
absorbs UV! So you may not need a UV filter to absorb UV. But you
probably should still put one on your lens to protect it-- as generations
of phtographers have done.
Given a coated UV filter from any major manufacturer---
Pros:
* protects lens from damage
* helps keep the filter ring from getting dented
* keeps the front surface of the lens clean (reducing cleaning)
* reduces visible flare
* reduces invisible flare
* may reduce UV and haze
Cons:
* absorbs a unmeasurably small amount of the incident visible light;
* reflects a tiny bit of the incident visible light (called specular reflection).
Install a filter, and you can clean it, not your lens. When the coating
on the filter wears out, throw the filter away and buy another one--
it sure beats throwing your lens away and buying another one!