Properframe Loc: US Virginia

Welcome.
Based on the SS being high enough, the ISO of 640 adequately low and you wisely backing off the max range you should have more shots that are close like #2. But even #2 is disappointing as you admitted. Did you use the VR on the lens? What focus setting did you use and where was your focal point (the eye should be the goal here). Single point focus if you have the skill set. D9 otherwise. If you don't know what those are you have to study the camera. Last thing is you have to account for any movement of the object YOU are on if you are out in a boat. You said "post" which on land should have been steady enough to avoid this softness but if it was a post or rail on a vessel you are inviting troubles. Also you did not state how much cropping you may have done but the grain is high and the lack of DOF on 2 is odd based on what you indicated.

What you should do before you get in the field with new/rented gear is to test the lens with your camera on static (ie signage) objects to make sure you have no focus issues with the lens. If the lens is quickly focusing correctly then shoot some falling leaves/moving objects to see if you have VR/focusing issues. Tamron makes adequate glass - the G2 series are better - but you should have gotten better results from that lens. Work on things at home to determine if it is ongoing or a one off. You say you have issues with other lenses which is unnerving.
Get familiar with the focus settings of your Nikon and know what each does and why. And use Auto Focus C(ontinuous) not Auto Focus S(ingle).
Consider investing less than $20 for Steve Perrys download book on the Nikon Autofocus System. Read it front to back twice with your camera in hand in one setting and you will be a much better shooter the next outing.

Sometimes you just have a bad day. You just hope it is on a day shooting around the back yard and not on a great trip. Know your settings and check and recheck your settings often.

AF-S matter. Case in point I have a series of shots of a wild dog running directly at me and as the focus method was somehow jostled to the AF-S setting every one of them is slightly out of focus. (using back button focus). Hundreds of wall hangers on that trip but that silliness is stuck in my craw.

Cany143 Loc: SE Utah

First dSLR? A year and a half? Hah! With the problem seeing/problem solving mind evident in what you've written, you're light years ahead of a lot of us. And who isn't still learning?

mr_boyd

The photos were shot from land, with VR on and are not cropped. I have read that VR could be 'bad' when on a tripod. Would that still apply in a situation where the equipment isn't "attached" to the intended stabilizer?

I have other photos from the same trip. I need to go through them and evaluate them with the knowledge I have gained here. I think I am trying to learn how to evaluate a photo for 'good' sharpness and what contributes to 'bad' sharpness.

Are you suggesting that I should always shoot in AF-C? I was under the impression that AF-C was only used when the subjects are or could be in motion? AF-C would quickly adjust the focal plane to the movement of the subject, right? Wouldn't AF-C be bad for something like landscapes, or does it even matter? I think I have an experiment to do...

Thank you for all the suggestions. I will seek out the book, and add your suggestions to my preparation workflow.

BTW... How do you even stabilize on a boat??? It seems I have some trouble without a moving platform under me. These could probably be considered 'abstract' if I was on a boat LOL..

picsman Loc: Scotland

Maybe you need to fine tune the lens with the camera you are using. There various methods and software to help with that.

traderjohn Loc: New York City

Perhaps as useless as your response.

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

I used that lens a lot. I always leave the VC on as I hand hold or a mono. Like you I keep camera set to AF-C and BBF just release the button, recompose and shoot.

mizzee Loc: Boston,Ma

I think it was a lens issue. Did you try AF-S? I photographed sea otters from a boat under the same conditions as you described but used AF-S. I was using a d7000 with a 70-200 lens. Even with extreme cropping, I had excellent results.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I'm surprised no one has suggest this, but I'd recommend you buy this eBook from one of our members. Many of us have it and like it.
https://backcountrygallery.com/secrets-nikon-autofocus-system/

I would assume your equipment is operating correctly and take it from there. Getting sharp focus can be difficult, but it shouldn't be your only goal in photography. Those are nice pictures.

Focus -
https://digital-photography-school.com/tips-ensuring-get-sharp-photos-every-time/
https://www.wikihow.com/Focus-a-Camera
https://www.lightstalking.com/bite-size-tips-nail-focus-every-time/
http://www.lightstalking.com/these-steps-will-help-you-nail-focus-every-time/
http://www.thephoblographer.com/2015/03/28/how-to-get-the-best-autofocus-performance-from-your-camera/
http://www.reikan.co.uk/focalweb/index.php/why/about-focal/

MikeT9

First things first, your settings weren’t unreasonable for what you were attempting although you could have comedown to 1/640 to 1/1000. Have you tried to setting your camera up on a tripod and shooting at a fixed target. Use the settings you used for your pictures and take several pictures manually going out of focus and then using autofocus to take the shot. Following on from that, switch to manual focus and using live view, manually focus. See what you get, if the autofocus ones are ok, it’s you. If there’s variation between them it’s the camera/lens combination, one or the other. Look at the manually focussed shots for comparison. If it looks like the camera/lens setup, repeat using different lenses. If it’s still a problem, it’s the body, if the problem disappears it’s likely the lens. Have fun

Eddy Vortex

Remember also that the otters are covered with water so they might not be quite as sharp as a dry otter.

Chief Rob

Hi. You may want to study the ebook "Secrets To The Nikon Autofocus System" by Steve Perry. It is available at http://www.backcountrygallery.com.

Good luck!

Very Respectfully, cporob

AzPicLady Loc: Behind the camera!

I don't know if this will help you or not, but since I suffer from lack of sharpness sometimes, I thought I'd offer my attempts to wade through the dilemma. I bought a new lens a couple of years ago that was lighter than my current lens. I thought that would help. But I immediately started getting out of focus images. I put the new lens on my camera and the camera on a tripod and photographed books on my bookcase in natural light using a remote. Then I put my old lens on and did the same thing. I used auto focus on everything. I found that indeed the new lens produced out of focus images in about 80% of the shots. The old lens produced out of focus images on about 2% of the shots. So I sent the new lens back for recalibration. It was better, but it's still not perfect and seems somewhat sporadoc. Doing the test on a tripod takes out hand-held shakes and will tell you if it's the lens or you. If your problem occurs ONLY with that lens, then you've eliminated camera issues. Does this help at all?

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

I do not want to repeat what has been already said. My take on the shots is that they appear to be a little front focused. Micro adjusting may be necessary. Your lens manufacturer makes a device called, I think, the "Tap-In" which allows very fine levels of micro adjusting. However, you may be OK with just the in camera adjustments. Also the "Tap-In" allows custom focus limits. With these set to a longer close focus, you can reduce focus hunting that sometimes results in out of focus shots. I know this is a rental, but the value of this lens is largely, in my opinion, related to customization. With very long lenses, reducing focus hunting is very important. It could explain all of the focus issues here since your other settings really seem appropriate to the situation. Depending on the AF options set in your camera, the camera could just get tired of waiting to lock focus and think "just take the shot already." I am not familiar with your camera so I do not know what the options are, but I believe someone has provided links on this subject.

willy6419

If shot from a moving boat with engine vibration, resting on a post might be partial problem, and understand the 1/2000 SS could mitigate.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

Let me start by saying that the majority of focus problems are operator's problems. Although you did not use the feature that allows us to see those images larger, to my eyes those images do not seem to be lacking good focus.
You have not given us enough information and quality in our images depends more on us than in the gear we use. Many times simple tweaks to the editor make the images pop.