Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada

Most modern cameras and strobes have electrical contacts that automatically determine the exposure. My old Canon SX20IS accepts my Speedlight 580EXII for my 7D... looks silly, strobe is nearly as big as the camera, but, it works very well. Both cameras have electrical contacts and 'recognise' the strobe. I still use the SX20IS... at short distances, it projects a grid on the object to focus on. With either the on camera strobe or the Speedlight, I can take photos at 10' or 15' in total darkness. Works great for fire investigations, etc.

Strobes used to have a guide number that you divided this number by the distance and this yielded the f-stop.

Shutter speed was sync'd for strobe and was often in the order of 1/125 second. Shutter speed should not be adjusted outside of the sync time. The f-stop was the only item that had to be adjusted to allow the light from the measured flash to achieve a proper exposure.

As strobes developed they had sensors that measured the reflected light and 'clamped' the flash so the exposure was correct. Early ones just 'dumped' the remaining capacitor charge. Newer strobes saved the charge for the next shot and effectively extended the battery life.

Dik

flightdog

Geeze dude,
Why do combative? These folks are trying to help you...

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

There is no easy answer to your question. I use YN460 manual flashes; they go from full power all the way down to 1/64th power (if I remember rightly!).

It's hard to comprehend this, but your shutter speed, aside from the flash sync speed, has nothing to do with the amount of light your camera will record on your subject in flash photography. The flash pops for only a fraction of the time your shutter will be open. The shutter speed affects only ambient (background) light. If you don't believe me, then shoot a photo at 1/200th and 1/60th with the same f/stop. The ambient lighting will be different (darker and lighter), but your subject will be lit the same.

The f/stop determines the amount of flash your camera will receive. Using the same flash power, I can make my subject brighter by opening the aperture or I can make it darker by decreasing the aperture. If you use a constant f/stop, then you will have adjust the flash output instead of the f/stop.

Using my YN460s, at your f/5.6, I would set my speed light at 1/2 power and work from there, either adjusting the aperture or the flash power; in your case, because you specify the aperture at f/5.6, I would have to adjust the flash power, usually decreasing it.

Once you grasp the basics of flash photography, you can usually determine the flash output (based on your f/stop) in three experimental shots.

photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA

Yes, it matters if you are using a studio strobe. The studio strobe puts out a lot more light than a speed light.

sailor2545 Loc: Victoria, BC

don't be such a fool. just give him the info and he may be able to help ypu

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

I am curious as to why you won't tell us the brand, model of the flash your using? Any reason? Just asking it might help us answer your question.

zzzynick Loc: Colorado

You have a computer, right.
Google f/stop and flash.
See what comes up.
Read.

cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA

Pardon me, but I've never seen an F-stop on a flash. There is no aperture on a flash, only on a lens. Manual flash settings are either calculated (as in the 'old' days) or determined by using a flash meter and setting the appropriate F-stop on the lens. I would suggest getting yourself a book on Flash Photography and reading through that to gain more understanding. Modern on-camera flash units, often called speedlights, and modern cameras, mostly control flash automatically and, for the most part, do a good job. Tweaking makes things much better but more knowledge is needed to accomplish that. Best of luck.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Does it matter if I am using a studio or on camera flash? Yes, as the power differs greatly. Studio strobes are much more powerful therefore they are more versatile.
They do put out an instant burst of light right? Yes, both do but that doesn't mean they are the same. For instance, some can be used for High Speed Sync, some can't
And will a flash meter read the f-stop output? Not usually, I think you'll get a distance readout not and f-stop readout. (on a speedlite)
And can you not adjust the flash from full power to 1/128th power? Yes, as far as I know both studio and speedlites can have the power adjusted in the same way.

Weddingguy Loc: British Columbia - Canada

There are three factors that determine the proper power setting on the flash. Aperture (F/5.6) . . . distance from flash to subject . . . and ISO (the amount of light needed for perfect exposure)
The information you are offering is incomplete.

If you are using the flash in manual mode, the first thing you have to do is determine a GUIDE NUMBER for the flash based on the particular flash unit and the ISO being used. Normally adjusting exposure on manual flash is done by adjusting the aperture . . but of course adjusting any of the three factors will work, just not as accurately or conveniently. Once the guide number is established, it is as simple as dividing the guide number by the distance in feet from the flash to subject to determine F/stop. (Example: Guide number of 115 . . . distance from subject 10 feet would be a setting of F/11)

Hope that is what you were looking for.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Al the flash meters I have used give a direct f/stop reading:
Minolta Flash Meter IV
Minolta Auto Meter IVF
Sekonic L-358

BebuLamar

Older auto flashes that use the sensor on the flash rather than TTL have the aperture setting. You set the ISO and aperture on the flash and then match the same setting on the camera and the flash will automatically give you the correct exposure.

wetreed

Your attitude is less than desirable. Learn how to spell, amerature is not a word . You are very confused about flash photography and need a lot of help. If you were a nicer person I would offer advice. I do think you should grow up a little.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

Since you’ve said all settings are manual, of course it doesn’t matter what flash you’re using. Set it to the same f/stop as your lens (f/stops are not a camera setting), divide the flash’s guide number by the f/stop to get the correct distance, or divide the guide number by the distance to get the correct f/number..
Flash meters are more useful for studio flash - my experience has been that guide numbers are generally accurate.
Not all flashes have variable power settings.