rbk35

Opinions for best lens to take baseball team group photos.

Thanks

rbk35

Using a Nikon D7200 body.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

I use the 24-105mm L. Works incredibly well.

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

agree with Architect1776...
This is one scenario where zoom optics are highly desirable...
Also the longer the focal length (and faster the glass) the easier to render background distractions less obtrusive... and with a narrower angle of view it becomes far easier to isolate from the aforementioned distractions... albeit you lose some of the charisma of being up-close and personal when directing team members...

The above assumes an outdoor venue...
btw, quartering sunlight can and does eliminate squinting eyes... albeit back-lit with a speed-light key is my favorite illumination scenario by far and away...

Hope this helps rbk35 or is at least food for thought...

billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM

With your crop frame body the Nikon 18-120 should serve you well. Would also be great general purpose lens.

Bill

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

No wider (shorter) than 35mm actual focal length. A 24-70mm or 28-75mm on DX Nikons is about right for most team and individual work. Those are common choices in the school and sports portrait industry.

I like to use 35mm minimum for groups and about 55mm for individuals photographed on DX/APS-C.

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

Whatever lens you use, get a 6' step ladder to view the group from above. Much more natural than the ground level shots.

JP Morgan's The Slanted Lens has a great group shot tutorial. More complicated than you probably need, but he addresses using a ladder.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMjzK-BiohA&t=493s

Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC

thanks rgrenaderphoto... poignant video... hits all the important points... Bookmarked to share with others...

All the best on your journey rgrenaderphoto...

JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco

Also, if the group is in rows, a longer focal length will give you more even head sizes. Too wide a lens and the people on the front row will have larger heads than people in the back rows.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Use fill flash in bright sun for clean faces... it needs to be industrial strength (800 to 2400 w/s).

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

I do my share of large groups- sports teams, military units, orchestras, choirs, business and corporate groups. etc.

I try to use a NORMAL focal length whenever possible. I know there is a temptation to use a wide angle lens or zoom focal length and stay in close, however, I only go to moderately wide if there is no other alternative due to lack of space.

This is especially important if there are multiple rows of people and the concern I have is perspective. I want the folks in the rows that are further away from the camera to appear about the same size (head size) as the closer rows. Working in too close with a wide angle lens will visually diminish the size of the folks in the back rows. I also want to avoid foreshorteing if I need some elevation to bring the camera about to the level of the folks in the second row.

On large groups I sager the elevation of the rows using bleachers, risers, chairs or makeshift platforms made of chairs so all the subjects are viable and try to compose so the aspect ratio will fill the format of the finished prints or publication. With the normal focal length, most groups will require a distance of anywhere form 12 to 25 feet. Out of doors, if flash fill is required, an on camera flash set at 100 to 200 watt seconds will usually do the job. I am usually working about f/11 or 16 which provides enough depth of field for multiple rows of subjects. Indoors, I use a couple of moonlights with large umbrellas.

Unlike other kinds of portraiture, I usually avoid shallow depth of field, especially with multiple rows, however, I usually visit the location well in advance and plan an appropriate and aesthetically pleasing background that will add to the theme of the group.

With a full frame body, I will use a 50mm focal length- I will never go beyond 35mm- I usually plan for enough back up space to accommodate the normal focal length for the format.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

DEPENDS. How many on the team? Are you going to have one row, two rows, three rows, what? Will you include coaches, managers, water boys?
When I did team photography, I found a zoom lens worked well. Something that will give you at least 35 mm at the wide end of even 28 mm would work out well. My favorite new Nikon prime is the 28 1.8. All you need to do with a prime is physically move toward them or away form them. With a zoom you can stand in one location and zoom to fit.

pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY

Depends on how many and how many rows. If you trying to get all of them in a single row you will need to go real wide adn the real wide gets you small people. Put them in rows and hopefully on a hill such that each player's head shows. If no hill or bleacher seats, bring a ladder. The best lens has to do with how you plan to stack them. My 24-105 always worked for me. That's full 24 on a full frame.

BuckeyeBilly Loc: St. Petersburg, FL

.....what burkphoto said!

queencitysanta Loc: Charlotte, North Carolina

I use a Nikon 20-35 2.8