Wide angle Nikon lens question
Aug 7, 2018 12:19:20 #
Aug 7, 2018 12:24:18 #
Aug 7, 2018 12:28:31 #
I wanted a wide angle for a long time and had an opportunity to get a Sigma 14mm 2.8 Aspherical at a good price and did it. I had never had a Sigma and have been told that it is cheap stuff to stay away from it but this lens is a a good choice. It is great for a whole room but it is a wonder out of doors too. It is not a fish eye, I have never wanted a fish eye as you are really limited with what you can do with them.
I really wanted the Nikon 14-24 as I have used a friends before but I almost always used it at the wide end so I went ahead and got the Sigma. Fine lens. Fun lens. Not expensive lens.
I really wanted the Nikon 14-24 as I have used a friends before but I almost always used it at the wide end so I went ahead and got the Sigma. Fine lens. Fun lens. Not expensive lens.
Aug 7, 2018 13:00:00 #
RWR
Loc: La Mesa, CA
Bobspez wrote:
... I use the Sigma 15-30mm D zoom. ... Another benefit to this lens is it has a long depth of field. On landscapes generally everything from near to far is in focus.
For the benefit of those new to photography who may actually believe that myth, the focal length has no effect whatsoever on depth of field. A short lens will give you a wider field of view at a closer distance, but if you back up with a longer lens for the same field of view, and use the same aperture, depth of field will be the same. Put another way, depth of field is dependent upon the reproduction ratio and aperture - the focal length is immaterial. This can be easily confirmed with most any depth of field calculator.
Aug 7, 2018 13:51:54 #
rfmaude41
Loc: Lancaster, Texas (DFW area)
BboH wrote:
What camera? If you use the D850 a fish eye would work nicely
Please read the OP's entry: "with a Nikon crop sensor camera".
Aug 7, 2018 16:00:20 #
kskarma
Loc: Topeka, KS
RWR wrote:
I would avoid any wide angle zoom. The simplest would be a 35 or 50mm prime lens, and panorama stitching. It’s so easy even I can do it!
I'll have to 'second' this idea....even though I have a good selection of wide angle lenses..fish-eye, 12-24 zoom...I don't always have one of them mounted when I need a very wide shot...so, merely taking two...or more....overlapping shots with whatever lens you have on your camera will take in as much 'width'...(or, if shooting vertically), 'height' as you need. I have Photoshop and both the full version, as well as "Elements" has a very easy to use...and nearly "fool proof" option called PhotoMerge. When you select the frames you have shot...make sure that each of them has a 'comfortable' ..(20% will provide some 'insurance')….then click "Start" and in a few minutes...at most...the software will stitch, blend, mask, correct for distortion..etc. It's nearly a miracle to see the results when the pano view pops up on your monitor.
Don't worry about all of the dire warnings about such things as: keeping your camera perfectly level, making sure that you have identified the "Nodal Point", taken all of your images in Manual with AF turned off and more well-meaning advice. IF you have the time to do all of this 'set up', you will get good panos….but PhotoMerge is VERY forgiving....
You will find that Photomerge…(and maybe many of the other Stitching Programs!) can handle wide discrepancies in your shots....just be absolutely certain that you don't leave any gaps in your sequence. Software can't handle image that were not taken in the first place...…...duh..!
Aug 7, 2018 17:04:50 #
cameraf4 wrote:
OP is asking what wide lens for crop sensor camera. Don't think he needs a camera. Don't know your price range but for "whole rooms" I would think that you would need to be in the 10-14mm range. I've heard good things about Tokina 11-16mm zooms.
yes or Tokina's 11-20.
Aug 7, 2018 17:36:39 #
Aug 7, 2018 17:48:17 #
stanperry wrote:
Looking for opinions. What do you use for a wide angle lens for capturing whole rooms with a Nikon crop sensor camera? No fish eyes, of course.
For single exposure, Irix 15mm manual focus. For pano in portrait orientation, Nikkor 24mm f2 manual focus.
..
Aug 7, 2018 18:33:11 #
Aug 7, 2018 19:48:27 #
Gene51 wrote:
Yes, and it has the characteristic extension and volume deformation distortion, not to mention significant barrel distortion. The barrel can be corrected, but the other stuff you'll have to live with. And it's the reason I do not recommend ultra wide lenses especially if you are doing real estate. They are ok as a special application lens, particularly when you have no foreground elements that can get severely distorted, unless it is your goal to lend emphasis to those elements.
Yes you really need to learn howand when to use an ultra wide .
I’ve messed up enough pics with one to know .
Aug 7, 2018 20:47:10 #
I have a Nikon 5300D DX and I have had the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 which I bought for the price and it worked well for me. I wanted to try the Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 for the ultra wind angle and it was excellent, but pricey. Long story but I finally got the Nikon 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6 and I find it very sharp. What I would recommend is Googling: "review Nikon 10-20, or any other lens that you are interested in". There will be a lot of reviews to read and the best have detailed testing. It is the best way that I have found.
Aug 8, 2018 02:40:04 #
Have a look at the Laowa 15mm f/4 shift, macro. It is fully corrected, shifts so great for architecture and virtually distortion free.
Aug 8, 2018 06:19:59 #
bpulv wrote:
Try doing a panorama inside a European cathedral or castle, a museum, building interiors, etc. where tripods or even monopods are banned. If you are using your camera for travel, you need a super-wide.
Half the panoramas I do, particularly while traveling, are handheld. I am not sure why you would think that you need additional support for panoramas. The shooting conditions are no different for a single image or a series taken with stitching in mind. The bigger issue is having a lens that is fast enough and a camera that has relatively low noise at high ISO to be able to shoot with a fast enough shutter speed.
https://petapixel.com/2016/10/27/stitching-panorama-forget-wide-angle-lens-home/
Light levels were poor at the Jameson Distillery in Dublin, I needed to shoot the first image at 1/40, F4, ISO 6400 hand held (three frame stitch). The second was a four frame stitch, but it was slightly brighter - 1/60, F3.5, ISO 3200. The last was a three frame stitch, , 1/20, F4.5, ISO 1600. For these images I used a 45mm F2.8 lens on a D800.
.
Aug 8, 2018 06:29:06 #
DannyKaye wrote:
Have a look at the Laowa 15mm f/4 shift, macro. It is fully corrected, shifts so great for architecture and virtually distortion free.
It does have barrel distortion, which is correctable and extension distortion which cannot be corrected, and volume deformation distortion - which is impossible to fully correct in post processing. But it is hard to use because it does not have an automatic aperture, or even a preset like the old fully manual lenses. You have to focus in a dark viewfinder at the shooting aperture. It's a pain to focus and compose at F4, then close the lens down.
Also, for architectural use, the shift is not easy to use - you can only lock it at zero or at the extremes , +/- 6 mm.
It certainly is an interesting lens and the price is reasonable at $300.
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