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Jun 6, 2018 09:14:15   #
akamerica
 
Shooting the Nikon D810 with the AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1:2.8 E ED. AF set to 3-D, AF-C, Programed mode, 51 focus points, Focus tracking with lock in AF 3 Normal.
My tale of woe:
This weekend the pelicans were swimming and suddenly taking off to dive for fish. Placed the focus on their white head and held the shutter 1/2 way, and waited for the moment. However the focus point started "jumping" off the bird's head and onto the body with slight camera movement following the swim. When the bird took off the focus point did not seem to stay locked on the birds head.

This same focus lock problem was also experienced taking movies of my dog running the the yard. Heard click click, click click, etc. as the focus point jumped around failing to maintain my chosen point - that was kept in the view finder.

Any difference in performance between view finder and live view screen?

So kind sirs & madams what say you? Me, the equipment, or the menu?

Art

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Jun 6, 2018 09:43:20   #
Meganephron Loc: Fort Worth, TX
 
akamerica wrote:
Shooting the Nikon D810 with the AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1:2.8 E ED. AF set to 3-D, AF-C, Programed mode, 51 focus points, Focus tracking with lock in AF 3 Normal.
My tale of woe:
This weekend the pelicans were swimming and suddenly taking off to dive for fish. Placed the focus on their white head and held the shutter 1/2 way, and waited for the moment. However the focus point started "jumping" off the bird's head and onto the body with slight camera movement following the swim. When the bird took off the focus point did not seem to stay locked on the birds head.

This same focus lock problem was also experienced taking movies of my dog running the the yard. Heard click click, click click, etc. as the focus point jumped around failing to maintain my chosen point - that was kept in the view finder.

Any difference in performance between view finder and live view screen?

So kind sirs & madams what say you? Me, the equipment, or the menu?

Art
Shooting the Nikon D810 with the AF-S Nikkor 24-70... (show quote)


Learn to use Back Button Focus and this may solve your problem. Would also limit focus tracking to nine point and use Aperture or Shutter modes. Shutter mode best for moving subject. In Program mode you are allowing the camera to make decisions.

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Jun 6, 2018 10:26:56   #
67skylark27 Loc: Fort Atkinson, WI
 
Agreed, I would use single or 9 point as well, shutter mode or full manual. I switched to back button
focus a few months ago and love it now. Only drawback is explaining it to someone quickly when
handing off the camera.

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Jun 6, 2018 10:28:48   #
Jim-Pops Loc: Granbury, Texas
 
Only drawback is explaining it to someone quickly when handing off the camera.




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Jun 7, 2018 06:37:20   #
CO
 
Does the D810 have Group-area AF? In that mode, all five focus points act as one. The focus points will not try to lock on to anything that is closer or further away than the bird's head. My D500 has it. I think the D810 has it also.

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Jun 7, 2018 06:45:06   #
rdubreuil Loc: Dummer, NH USA
 
CO wrote:
Does the D810 have Group-area AF? In that mode, all five focus points act as one. The focus points will not try to lock on to anything that is closer or further away than the bird's head. My D500 has it. I think the D810 has it also.



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Jun 7, 2018 06:46:09   #
DavidPine Loc: Fredericksburg, TX
 
Check out Steve Perry. He is a member here and an expert regarding Nikons and focusing.
akamerica wrote:
Shooting the Nikon D810 with the AF-S Nikkor 24-70mm 1:2.8 E ED. AF set to 3-D, AF-C, Programed mode, 51 focus points, Focus tracking with lock in AF 3 Normal.
My tale of woe:
This weekend the pelicans were swimming and suddenly taking off to dive for fish. Placed the focus on their white head and held the shutter 1/2 way, and waited for the moment. However the focus point started "jumping" off the bird's head and onto the body with slight camera movement following the swim. When the bird took off the focus point did not seem to stay locked on the birds head.

This same focus lock problem was also experienced taking movies of my dog running the the yard. Heard click click, click click, etc. as the focus point jumped around failing to maintain my chosen point - that was kept in the view finder.

Any difference in performance between view finder and live view screen?

So kind sirs & madams what say you? Me, the equipment, or the menu?

Art
Shooting the Nikon D810 with the AF-S Nikkor 24-70... (show quote)

Reply
 
 
Jun 7, 2018 06:59:14   #
Katcas Loc: Rhode Island
 
Also read Steve’s e-book on The Secreta to Nikon’s autofocus. Best reference book.

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Jun 7, 2018 08:40:51   #
Tracht3
 
Try changing focus to single point or group. Preferable single point. Remember the more points you use the more thinking the camera must do and it takes more time to think. Sadly it doesnt think smarter than you!

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Jun 7, 2018 08:50:10   #
boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander
 
I use back button,spot focus and spot metering. As well as A I servo and max burst, amd as fast a shutter speed as the light will allow. And most of my pics are still not tack sharp (camera movement)


(Download)

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Jun 7, 2018 08:54:17   #
Tracht3
 
Try what i said first. Equipment is another factor as well as technique. Do one thing at a time to narrow it down. Let me know what happens.

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Jun 7, 2018 09:01:21   #
Tracht3
 
Shooting Max burst is not always good. Take your time, a max burst keeps looking for the subject as it is constantly refocusing for the next shot and then the subject moves again. Learning Max burst requires technique and a knowledge of when and how to use it. Try taking your time and making the adjustment I said and then try slowing the burst speed in the menu. Im sure you are close to the answer.

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Jun 7, 2018 09:16:27   #
Meganephron Loc: Fort Worth, TX
 
Tracht3 wrote:
Try changing focus to single point or group. Preferable single point. Remember the more points you use the more thinking the camera must do and it takes more time to think. Sadly it doesnt think smarter than you!


I agree single point is best, hoever, bird photographers say focus on the eye. Very hard to do but agree with slower bursts to give you and the camera a better chance

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Jun 7, 2018 09:19:49   #
akamerica
 
Thanks for the ideas to try.

The objective is to have the camera lock onto a point and track the object (i.e. bird) when it moves suddenly. Don't think group focus or single point have the "lock on" feature of 3d only available in AF- C.

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Jun 7, 2018 09:37:17   #
Steve Perry Loc: Sylvania, Ohio
 
Your post explains precisely why I don't use 3D AF for wildlife - it's too unpredictable. It sees that you're trying to track white, but isn't smart enough to know you want to stay on the head. Use AF-C and Group or D9 in that situation - yup, you have to follow the animal, think about composition and such as action is happening, but you'll also get the shot :)

See my action page at the link below. Not one was taken with 3D, most were Group, D9, and sometimes even single point:
https://backcountrygallery.com/wildlife-action-shots/

And a shameless plug for my book which completely covers how all of this works :)
https://backcountrygallery.com/secrets-nikon-autofocus-system/

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