robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

You are welcome.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

KIS-Keep it simple- Very simple!

For starters place the gem stone on a background that will emphasize its color- a green stone will look outstanding on a pinkish or magenta background or a neutral shade if you wish. Set this up near a north-lighted window, that is, light from the sky- not directly from the sun. If there is only direct sunlight, use a simple white curtain or translucent white cloth as a diffusion screen. If the stone is highly polished you may need a CPL filter. A lot depends on the surface texture, finish, facets and/or light absorbency of each specimen. A simple white card, close to the subject can proved fill lighting to bring up shadow detail if required. Mount the camera on a tripod, focus carefully and shoot.

If you like the results, you can simulate this lighting when natural light is not available with a simple light source in a soft box modifier. For small stones you will not need a very large soft box- something between 12 and 24 inches should work well.

If you are now experiencing difficulty, it is difficult to asses the issues without a example of the images that you are dissatisfied with. Shoot a few different stones with various shapes and surfaces so I can better advise you. Translucent stones can be effectively photographed with transmitted light from a simple light box.

If you want to bring out the shape a texture and/or depth of color in a stone,ring lighting is not necessarily advisable. If the stone is mounted in a setting or an item of jewelry, there are other techniques.

Just like your other craft, there are technical issues involved in the art. Read up on ANGLE OF INCIDENCE in lighting. The rule is; the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of refection. It's not terribly complex but once you have a handle on this theory it becomes easy to control reflections, render textures and shapes with extremely simple lighting. When you are working with a fixed window light situation, oftentimes just moving the camera to a slightly different angle to the light source will make all of the difference and place the reflections in the right place.

Of course you can get pretty sophisticated with macro lenses and some fancy studio gear but you will be surprised what you can do with your existing gear and the right technique.

Looking forward to your images!

Post some shots and I'll bet you will have this in hand pretty quick!

AndyH Loc: Massachusetts and New Hampshire

DannyKaye Loc: Sheffield now but soon moving to Blanzay

There is a technique that works for cut glass, get a sheet of black card, cut a hole smaller than the object, sit object and card on a sheet of glass for support, light with a remote flash from below. Not sure if it would work for gem stones but worth a try.

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

I collect Sea Shells as another hobby, and to photograph the smooth shiny ones I have pretty much the same issues as you do with gem stones. Because of that I mainly photograph the rough and spiny ones. But for Cowries and similar, yes a light tent is the way to go.

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

I shoot marbles that go from 1" to 2"s in diameter - the issue I fought with was glare. So, I made a light tent of black felt, lighting the marble from below. My avatar is one of the shots. Here is another

BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD

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JimKing Loc: Salisbury, Maryland USA

This is probably too easy to be correct but since washed out is one of the problems, have you tried a wide range of exposures for a given shot? I shoot all studio type shots manually. Again these are probably not a solution, but I did not see exposure mentioned.

Neil Barry

Try shooting with transmitted light. A black velvet background, with holes cut into it of the appropriate size, and light coming up from the bottom, through the gemstones. Experiment with many kinds of light, direction, etc. My experience was that point light sources worked best. I would think that some of today's LED flashlights, with adjustable beam with might work. I used microscope lamps. The same technique worked well for me photographing glass sculptures, and fine glassware.

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

The process can be challenging. There can be delayed gratification, however.

Toment Loc: FL, IL

b roll wanabee

I bought a $30 USB microscope and you can do a lot with it.
A smartphone is not to be underestimated as a shortcut to true macro dslr photography.

Try doing the above as a shortcut then get back to the hard work of doing it right.
Macro photography is stunning when done right with your quality gear.

Macro photography is its own art
Lighting is its own art.
You have the gear to do amazing shots.

Best of luck

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

Light is key to your quest in getting great images of gemstones. Perhaps a good light box is the answer along with a good tripod and remote shutter release.

hankswan

Lots of ways to set up for gemstone photos. I have been cutting for 38 years (UltraTec) and working on photos of the finished products for almost that long. Go on eBay and look for light boxes, available in several sizes and led lights. One of the things overlooked by many photographers is the Kelvin temp of their light source. As faceters know, the apparent color of a gemstone is largely controlled by the light source lighting the stone. Hence, so called color change gems are in fact just the light source that is illuminating the stone. If you are using a light box, it is unlikely that you will need a Circular Polarizer. Buy a good Micro (Macro) lens, NOT a wide angle lens. More like a portrait lens. Wide angle lenses tend to distort your subject up close. If you are familiar with the company Rio Grande, jewelry supplies, etc. The sell a product called the "Clour Dome" take a look. Research, try and research again. It will come to you as you practice this art. IMHO

Real Nikon Lover Loc: Simi Valley, CA

Lighting, position (composition) and focal point are what you need to capture your stones. It really isn't rocket science. Since it is macro photography, there is a macro section on UHH with many "experts" that give great advice and show examples. Posting up what you think are bad photos may lead to critique to make better/great photos.

It doesn't take the most expensive equipment. I have been breaking into macro photography with my Nikon D810, ambient light and a very old 55mm Nikon macro lens with macro tube. The fly photo is an sample I took outside in ambient light. If you view the fly in large format you can see the cataract in his eye.

I do not have any small stones to really experiment with although I have a few rocks and screws that have fallen out of my head on occasion...trying to get the best shot! LOL

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