Gifted One Loc: S. E. Idaho

I bought my 10-22 before I had the 15-85. I don't know if I would have bought it. Hell ya I would have made the purchase but I make do with the 15 very often.

traderjohn Loc: New York City

"Don't upgrade just because your camera is old" That surely would apply to those that; have to have, yes..I need this. Everything before this was ...so nothing. Now everything will be so much better. The D850 has opened up the universe.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

No, it is not the same pizza, the cameras you mentioned are technologically more advanced than what you have and I know that but I do not use Canon gear.
Your question regarding upgrading is, do the new camera has features that I will use in my photography? Is my camera not doing the job for me? If yes is the answer you need a new camera. I can tell you right now without knowing your photographic expertise that a new camera will not make you a better photographer and no offense intended. I agree that a lens with a little more reach will prove very useful in your travels.

revhen Loc: By the beautiful Hudson

Totally agree with comments on 80D (I have the 70D which is almost there) and use the 18-135 lens as my walkaround: It covers 90-95% of shots.

boberic Loc: Quiet Corner, Connecticut. Ex long Islander

As has been said-if your current camera is doing what you need, there is no reason to change, so spend your money on better glass. That being said, there is a big difference between need and want. So if money is of no concern, go to a body that will make a big improvement, the 7d11. Again- if money is of no concern, spend the bucks= you only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough(quote, Joe E. Brown)

Gifted One Loc: S. E. Idaho

He currently has the GOLD Standard of APS-C glass! For Canon EF mount.

J. R.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

I upgraded from the t3i to the 80D and love it. Just too many Improvements to count. If you do go that way, think about a refurb from Canon. Right now with the 18-135 it is jut $1,199.00.
https://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/eos-80d-ef-s-18-135mm-f-3-5-5-6-is-usm-kit-refurbished
Body only $899.20
https://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/eos-80d-body-refurbished
This camera is new enough that a refurb is a pretty safe buy (relative to shutter count) and the inspection of a refurb at the factory is more thorough than the spot check process for new. A refurb is checked to make sure everything is at standard.

DebAnn Loc: Toronto

I've been in the same place as you on this. I still have my T3i as a backup camera. I think it is a great camera and has served me well. I upgraded to a 70D before the 80D came out. Again, it was a sound choice so I think you would do well with the 80D. I would definitely recommend getting the 18-135mm lens. It never comes off my 70D - it's my favourite lens. Just recently I bought a full frame 6D Mark II because I "inherited" a couple of great Canon L lenses. Haven't used it much yet, but so far, so good.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

DPAF is worth it alone for video or live view work. Can't be beat.

bobmcculloch Loc: NYC, NY

Personally I think your fine, I use a Sigma 17-70 90% of the time on a T1i or T4i, next most commonly used lens would be Canon 10-18, travelling with one lens it would be the Sigma no hesitation. Bob.

Photocraig

Just remember I was (one of) the guy(s) who bought it at a higher price to encourage the reduction.
Since I'm not Weather Sealed anymore (if ever) I've lowered that feature on my priority list. Love the camera, And by reports, DIGIC 7 helps with higher ISO. I haven't seen it, but I haven't tested it other than in a Jr High Gym. Kids all look like they have measles at 3200 ISO. 1200 they look like they're healing and 800 and they're cured. Since they're still pretty slow, motion blur is minimal @ 1/250. In a year or two, when the Evil Hormone takes hold, we'll deal with it! That's what GAS is made of!

C

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Hi Daryl,

An upgraded from the kit lens is a good idea, but...

Personally I'd want something wider than 18mm at times... especially for scenic shots while traveling in Europe. Two ways to achieve that come to mind...

Canon EF-S 15-85mm IS USM would be a good, single lens solution.... offering both wider and longer than what you have now. It's also a more "upscale" lens with better image quality, superior build, faster focus and higher performance IS than what you have now. It ain't cheap, though, at about $800.

Alternatively, a two lens kit... still reasonable compact and lightweight... combining one of the Canon EF-S 18-135mm IS (choose between the STM or USM version) with the Canon EF-S 10-18mm IS STM. These two would give you a very versatile range of focal lengths, even wider and a bit longer than the 15-85mm. There are actually three versions of the 18-135mm being widely offered. The original is a micro motor lens (not marked STM or USM). For the same or a little more money, I'd recommend the new and optically improved STM or USM versions of it instead. The USM (ultrasonic) version is the newest and faster focusing of those. Canon claims it's 2X to 4X faster than the STM (stepper motor). The 18-135mm STM is selling new for around $400, while the USM version usually costs about $600.

The EF-S 10-18mm IS STM is a real bargain at under $300. Really shook up the rest of the manufacturers when Canon introduced it. For the money, it has surprisingly good image quality. It also is smaller and lighter weight than most ultrawides.... and it was the first of them to have IS (Tamron and Nikon have since introduced stabilized ultrawides). It is a budget lens, with a poly-carbonate (i.e., plastic) bayonet mount.... like your 18-55mm. The Canon EF-S 10-22mm USM is also superb and a better built, but larger, heavier lens... at double the price.

I'd go for the two lens kit, personally. I figure the whole point of a DSLR is the ability to change lenses. I can understand wanting to "keep it simple" though. Either way, there's not much difference in weight... The 15-85mm is a bit heftier than the other lenses at a little over 1.25 lb. and using 72mm diameter filters. The two 18-135mm are only an ounce or two lighter than that, while the 10-18mm is around a half lb. All three of those use slightly smaller diameter 67mm filters (so they could share a Circular Polarizer, for example). So the greater range offered by the two lens kit would only be 6 or 7 oz. heavier than the single lens option.

As to the cameras... the T3i was a quite decent camera in it's day... but either the 77D or the 80D would be a nice upgrade in a number of ways.

Probably the most noticeable difference is the newer cameras' autofocus system. Where your T3i has a 9-point AF array with a single higher performance "cross type" point at the center, both the 80D and 77D use the same 45-point AF array where all points are high performance cross type. The 45-point AF system also is "f/8 capable"... meaning that it offers more versatility using lens and teleconverter combinations than the "f/5.6 limited" T3i. I believe the newer cameras are also able to focus in considerably lower light conditions... probably -2EV or -3EV... like most newer Canon DSLRs. Your T3i is only able to autofocus to -0.5EV. The newer cameras also have Dual Pixel AF in Live View... which is much faster than the contrast detection method used by your camera.

Another key difference is the one or two generation newer 24MP sensor the 80D and 77D share. The increase in resolution from your camerá's 18MP is nice, but probably isn't all that big a deal.... But the newer sensors also offer greater dynamic range and higher usable ISO. Where your camera has an ISO range of 100-6400 (expandable to 12800), while the newer models offer 100-12800 (expandable to 25600). What the numbers don't tell you is that's it's likely you'll actually be able to use some of the available higher ISO. Everyone has different opinions about noise levels... and how much is acceptable might vary with subject or how you plan to use the image. But basically I think you'd find the newer cameras good for about two stops higher than whatever you limited yourself to with the T3i (based upon my own experiences using 18MP 7D... versus newer, higher ISO capable models). Greater dynamic range makes for a bit more detail in shadows and highlights. I'd estimate it's a stop or so wider in the newer models, compared to the T3i.

Both cameras also offer other improvements. They have more direct access to a lot of frequently used controls For example where a single dial controls either aperture or shutter speed on your Rebel, and you have to press a button to switch between them.... both the upgrade models have separate controls, so you can more quickly make adjustments. They both also have a second, monochrome LCD on the right hand shoulder where you can see all the camera settings, versus having to use the rear LCD screen the way you do with your T3i.

The differences between the 80D and 77D might not be apparent at first.

The 77D's viewfinder is smaller and isn't as bright. It's similar to your T3i's, using a penta-mirror to save weight and cost, and with around 98% coverage. The 80D's bigger brighter viewfinder offers 100% coverage and uses a true pentaprism, which is part of the reason it's a bit heavier than the other cameras.

The 80D also has a higher specification shutter. Where the 77D is similar to your T3i with a top shutter speed of 1/4000 and a flash sync of 1/200... the 80D's top speed is 1/8000, with a flash sync of 1/250. I haven't seen any actual durability rating for these models, but typically the lower spec "Rebel" shutters are expected to be able to do 75,000 actuations, while those like the 80D uses are predicted to do 100,000 clicks.

Both the newer cameras offer faster frame rates and larger buffers than your T3i, too. If I recall correctly, continuous shooting with your camera tops out around 4 frames per second.... 77D can do 6 fps and 80D can do 7 fps.

80D also has Micro Focus Adjustment, where individual lenses can be fine tuned to work on the camera.

Both the newer cameras also have Anti-Flicker, which helps make much more accurate exposures under fluorescent and similar lighting.

The 80D also uses a larger LP-E6N battery which can be expected to give more shots per charge. The 80D is rated to be able to take close to 1000 shots per charge, while the 77D with it's smaller LP-E17 battery is rated for around 650 (these are standardized test methods and both can likely take far more shots per charge, with some simple power saving techniques).

drogers

Thank you again to this wonderful group for all the great info. Special thanks to Alan for your comprehensive comparisons.
I have printed all your comments and now I have to make some decisions. Luckily, I have some time to sort out my needs to move my photography game to the next level. I will say the discussions in this group are a great help promote thought about things I might not otherwise have considered.
I wish everyone a great Memorial Day weekend!
Daryl

rmacilroy Loc: pompano beach, fl

ditto

rmacilroy Loc: pompano beach, fl

prase and regcogntin or enjoyment and guiudance of photagrahy. Ego vs Confidance.