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Am I expecting too much out of my equipment . . . or is it me?
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Apr 22, 2018 13:09:00   #
Retina Loc: Near Charleston,SC
 
Looking closely at the blur in some of the photos I would not be so quick to dismiss mirror shake as part of your concerns even at relatively high shutter speeds with IS enabled. It is less of a problem with heavier cameras (a=F/m) and possibly more expensive shutter systems. I was surprised how prone my similarly lightwight DSLR was to shake forcing me to always use a tighter grip and press my arms tight against my sides. That's not a bad practice anyway. With the older and heavier film cameras and metal lens barrels I was more concerned about me moving during an exposure but with the much lighter camera and lens, even with IS, I have to be more careful about the camera itself. At least that's been my experience. I wonder if any members out there found that a battery grip helped to stabilize hand held shots.

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Apr 22, 2018 13:27:28   #
Idaho
 
You'll need an understanding of how high a shutter speed you'll need, depth of field and how it may affect you, a cleans lens, and a steady hand if you aren't using a tripod. My guess is that your shutter speed is too slow. Since you haven't mentioned shutter speed, I assume you don't understand how critical it can be under certain circumstances .

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Apr 22, 2018 14:00:21   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
Sally D wrote:
I need advice again . . . I am shooting an Canon Rebel SL1 with a Canon EF 70-300 4 - 5.6 IS USM lens. I am just not happy with how soft the focus is. I'm posting some examples so you can see. The only one that seems sharp to me is the Thrasher. All four pictures were taken on the same day. The egret and the thrasher required only limited cropping so I suppose that's part of the issue but the egret isn't sharp either.
Does it look like there may be something wrong with my lens or me . . . or am I expecting too much from my equipment? And if that's the case, I'm guessing that a better quality lens is probably more important than a new camera body. Am I correct? And in that case, please give me your recommendations for a zoom. I take almost exclusively wildlife pictures so need to be able to reach out a bit. I should add that my shooting partner is a pro with thousands invested . . . makes for an unhappy comparison. Thanks for your help.
I need advice again . . . I am shooting an Canon R... (show quote)


You may be expecting a little too much......If you are using a "protective filter" over the lens, take it off and make sure your shutter speeds are appropriate if hand holding.

The SL1 is an OK camera but not noted for it's great image qualities by today's standards - same goes for your 70-300 lens.

Firstly, I would recommend the new 70-300 IS II nano - a great lens ! ( $400 used) . If you are serious about shooting at longer focal lengths, I would recommend a body that has micro focus adjust capabilities and use it.

..

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Apr 22, 2018 14:01:50   #
Bobspez Loc: Southern NJ, USA
 
Main question is what distance were you from the birds? The closest I have gotten in sharp focus with a 300mm lens is 75 feet in sunlight.

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Apr 22, 2018 14:02:56   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
Retina wrote:
Looking closely at the blur in some of the photos I would not be so quick to dismiss mirror shake as part of your concerns even at relatively high shutter speeds with IS enabled. It is less of a problem with heavier cameras (a=F/m) and possibly more expensive shutter systems. I was surprised how prone my similarly lightwight DSLR was to shake forcing me to always use a tighter grip and press my arms tight against my sides. That's not a bad practice anyway. With the older and heavier film cameras and metal lens barrels I was more concerned about me moving during an exposure but with the much lighter camera and lens, even with IS, I have to be more careful about the camera itself. At least that's been my experience. I wonder if any members out there found that a battery grip helped to stabilize hand held shots.
Looking closely at the blur in some of the photos ... (show quote)


Some very good thinking here ! .....

..

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Apr 22, 2018 14:05:26   #
Diocletian
 
imagemeister wrote:
Some very good thinking here ! .....

..


You guys are so helpful.

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Apr 22, 2018 14:20:06   #
Selene03
 
Hi there, You have gotten a lot of good advice here, so I don't know if I have much to add. I have been using the sl1 with the 70-300 II USM Nano lens. it might be a bit sharper than yours, but I have gotten sharp photos from the combination. I can't really tell from what you say are the parameters here as to why the photos might not be so sharp. I am usually shooting from a moving kayak, through reeds, so it is tricky. I usually use f8 and single point focus and aim for the eyes of the bird (not always that easy to do if the kayak is bouncing up and down, hence f8 works a bit better for me than 5.6). You can increase the ISO to about 400, especially if it is bright out to help with the shutter speed. I have also set the ISO to somewhere between 400-800 and used shutter priority with shutter speeds between 1500-2000, then let the camera pic the aperture (often comes out at 7.1). The Sl1 is ok at higher ISOs, but I would not go above 800--it then starts to get noisy in shadows.

What I am saying I am doing here is not all that different from what it looks like you are doing (though I am handholding everything and not using a monopod). I keep IS on, but you might want to experiment with it off since you are using the monopod.

You should try turning the is off on the monopod, using different aperture, ISO combinations and see what happens. If you still aren't happy with the results, you might want to see if there is something not quite right about the lens. If you do decide on a new one, I really like the 70-300 II Nano. I have purchased a couple from Canon refurbished (for different cameras and uses--my kayak camera lens gets pretty trashed every time I take it out). They are relatively inexpensive compared to the L version and they are so much lighter, it makes them easy to hold in moving vehicles like boats. I also find them very sharp. The 100-400 is also a great lens that I would highly recommend!!! Good luck in solving your problem! I really enjoy being out with the birds!!!!

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Apr 22, 2018 14:25:43   #
Sally D
 
Diocletian wrote:
I am having the same problem with my SL1. even if I set it at F8, put it on a tripod, turn the image stabilizer off and use remote shutter my images are still not sharp . I do use the kit lenses so that might be the problem; and one other suggestion that I've read in the above posts is to back off on the zoom a little bit, so that's great, one more thing to try. Sigh.


Have you had your lens calibrated? Mine took quite a blow when I fell on it so I may have caused the problem. Regardless, thanks for replying . . .you know what they say, misery loves company. I'm glad I'm not the only one struggling with this lens!!

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Apr 22, 2018 14:28:51   #
Sally D
 
Selene03 wrote:
Hi there, You have gotten a lot of good advice here, so I don't know if I have much to add. I have been using the sl1 with the 70-300 II USM Nano lens. it might be a bit sharper than yours, but I have gotten sharp photos from the combination. I can't really tell from what you say are the parameters here as to why the photos might not be so sharp. I am usually shooting from a moving kayak, through reeds, so it is tricky. I usually use f8 and single point focus and aim for the eyes of the bird (not always that easy to do if the kayak is bouncing up and down, hence f8 works a bit better for me than 5.6). You can increase the ISO to about 400, especially if it is bright out to help with the shutter speed. I have also set the ISO to somewhere between 400-800 and used shutter priority with shutter speeds between 1500-2000, then let the camera pic the aperture (often comes out at 7.1). The Sl1 is ok at higher ISOs, but I would not go above 800--it then starts to get noisy in shadows.

What I am saying I am doing here is not all that different from what it looks like you are doing (though I am handholding everything and not using a monopod). I keep IS on, but you might want to experiment with it off since you are using the monopod.

You should try turning the is off on the monopod, using different aperture, ISO combinations and see what happens. If you still aren't happy with the results, you might want to see if there is something not quite right about the lens. If you do decide on a new one, I really like the 70-300 II Nano. I have purchased a couple from Canon refurbished (for different cameras and uses--my kayak camera lens gets pretty trashed every time I take it out). They are relatively inexpensive compared to the L version and they are so much lighter, it makes them easy to hold in moving vehicles like boats. I also find them very sharp. The 100-400 is also a great lens that I would highly recommend!!! Good luck in solving your problem! I really enjoy being out with the birds!!!!
Hi there, You have gotten a lot of good advice her... (show quote)


Thanks so much for the lens suggestion. I'll take a look at the Nano. Weight is an issue for me, not to mention the cost of the L lens.

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Apr 22, 2018 14:55:30   #
was_a_guru
 
Perhaps your lens needs calibration? This article explains AF Fine Tune. https://photographylife.com/how-to-calibrate-lenses

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Apr 22, 2018 15:27:51   #
Selene03
 
Sally D wrote:
Thanks so much for the lens suggestion. I'll take a look at the Nano. Weight is an issue for me, not to mention the cost of the L lens.


Canon Refurbished has it on sale right now for $379.99. I have been very satisfied buying lenses from them. They have a one year warranty and the equipment I have gotten from them seems like new, if not new. I tend to buy stuff from them when it is on sale, and they are apparently having a sale right now.

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Apr 22, 2018 17:36:03   #
mgoldfield
 
So many focus problems! Rarely is the lens or the autofocus at fault.

Look first for camera shake. Long focal lengths (don't forget crop factor if your camera
is not full frame); long exposures all contribute to blur.

Whenever possible use a tripod; use either a shutter delay or a remote shutter release.
When using a tripod, turn off your lens' vibration control.

If you aren't sure, learn how to use your camera's autofocus. Consider learning
BBF (back button focus).

Good luck!

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Apr 22, 2018 18:17:52   #
bittermelon
 
If pressing the shutter slightly moves your camera, you want want to look into using back button focus (Google it). This way you would set focus first, and your shutter button would not affect your focus.

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Apr 22, 2018 19:38:07   #
Roland2027 Loc: So. Cal
 
Sally D.,
All of these replies are surely helpful. I think your pictures look great. There are just too many aspects to cover thoroughly online and make any cohesive sense. May I suggest you ask your "shooting buddy" how to get better pictures, or hire a one-on professional to join you in your shooting sessions. In person is really the best and quickest way to get going. It is often the photographer experience level that counts the most, followed by your existing equipment. Once you get to a more experienced level you can consider purchcasing better equipment and continue progressing. Good Luck and Have Lots of Fun Too!

Roland D.

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Apr 22, 2018 20:36:39   #
kdogg Loc: Gallipolis Ferry WV
 
What AF lmode are you using? For BIF I use AI Servo mode with continuous shooting with back button focusing. I also use manual mode set the shutter speed and f/stop and use auto ISO. Found my keeper rate has improved.

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