CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Looking at the image again this morning, I think if you limit this one to viewing on social media and / or phone size, you’d be justified in pushing back with this example as being a success in using ISO-10000. You might tweak the adjustments a bit more in LR: say contrast to -1 and highlights to +5.

Following the idea of technique over more equipment, consider cropping less and zooming more. The larger the image you capture directly onto the sensor, the better overall will be the final image, everything else being equal. This is a challenge, but if you favor a close crop image like the processed version, practice shooting closer to the target result. Your position for this example image probably had one of several players crossing the half court line with the ball with each possession change. At 100mm to 140mm, you’d have roughly the same crop and an opportunity for a sharper final result in the same light and exposure settings.

You might also consider an AF Point expansion, see pages 90-91 of your manual. You had your single point on the player in the example image. Expanding that point should help with keeping focus on a moving target. There's two variations. Given your success with one point, I'd use the variation that uses 5 total points described at the bottom of page 90. I might compare the results of this setting with a quarter of shooting with the variation that uses nine points at the top of page 91. Both or neither may have an improvement over a single point. You'll have to judge from your own results.

A final thought since every so often is applies, do you have a filter on this lens? If yes, how are the results with it removed? For me a high quality filter makes zero difference off or on and I have B+W XS-Pro filters on all my lenses, but other brands may have a negative impact or the same zero difference.

Starphotog

Ive owned and shot with nearly all the digital and film Canon “pro” bodies over the years for both my job and personal use! The BEST is the 1DX II! However, it’s expensive, VERY expensive! Go to Fred Marada and buy a good used 1DX with a low shutter count. A good used 1DX is absolutly the best camera for the buck! You will throw rocks at everyother body you’ve ever used in the past! If you dont get awesome pix with that body, IT’S YOU and not the equipment!

elliott937 Loc: St. Louis

I've Googled Fred Marada and should I have found a store? Online seller?

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

I've had success at Birds as Art, http://www.birdsasart-blog.com/used-photography-gear-for-sale/

You can subscribe to the newsletter, but need to actively monitor the for-sale page for specific models as there's no push notification of new entries. They can post and be sold before you even receive the daily newsletter.

billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM

Don't know if this will help or not. I went from shooting sports with a 70D to a 5d Mk4 and the improvements were amazing. I can shoot at higher ISO's and crop closer with out losing as much. I shoot with either a 24-70 f2.8 for tight gyms or a 70-200 f 2.8 for larger venues. The FF's just seem to produce better images as the light gets lower. This is cropped quite a bit from the original shot.

(Download)

Gampa

Hey ... great thread and helpful dialogue, especially from CHG Canon who spent a lot of time responding. It’s the reason I get a lot out of UHH!

rthompson10

Thanks all!
CHG_Canon- yes I am using the 9 point focusing option, including on the one that I sent you. I think the focus point in the data shows the one point of the 9 it picked
BillNourse- thanks for screwing me up that's a nice picture. A know that there is a difference in fps but if I have to hold it for 12 fps then I'm not that good of a photographer.
I have looked at Fred Miranda which is a forum for camera help-similar to UGG but that have an extensive buy and sell forum
My own analysis on a breakeven is a 5DIV refurbished from Canon, which they have in stock vs a used 1DX- pricewise its a wash
Thanks all

RT

hookedupin2005 Loc: Northwestern New Mexico

CHG CANON, and SS both seem to know what they are talking about :-), so I would follow their guide, and try improving my technique, before running to the camera store, and pouring my money into their cash register for a new(different) camera body. Even trying different glass may help....

the f/stops here Loc: New Mexico

RT, I'd probably look at a faster lens. You didn't say if your 70-200 was a f/4 or f/2.8 lens but in low light there is a lot of difference in focusing speed and ability. I had the 2.8 version and sent it back for the f/4 version as the type of photography I do does not require the additional speed. I have the 7D II as well as a 5D III and a 1DX. It's my opinion that the cropped vs full frame is not going to solve the focus problem. An example could be using a variable f/stop zoom lens such as a 100-400. Let us say that on the 7D, 100mm is the correct focal length, but on the 5D it would need to be extended to 160mm to cover the same area. On the 7D at 100mm the camera lens opens to f/4.5 whereas on the 5D at 160mm it is at a smaller f/stop. Just my simple way of thinking about your dilemma. Good luck and have fun.

Besperus Loc: Oregon

I’ve used Canon cameras in the film days mostly. So take what I say in this light. The Pentax does have weakness where you do most of you work, true. The compairison I saw was from 2016. I do know companies issue updates much like cell phone companies. Ricoh/Pentax has possibly(?) and there has been an update in the programming which brings the K1 up to date with the latest integration the K1 II. As to what changes the Mark II model has I have no idea. My area of interest is no longer sports/news work which seems to require stopping action and sharp focus work. You seem to have the plan and fast lenses to do it well. I do feel a full frame body is the best direction to go.