So this is my first real attempt at this technique. It was a slightly windy day. I shot at f/20, 1/5 sec, iso 250, on tripod. Although I'm overall happy with it, on magnification the leaves are a little blurry. What could I have done differently?
Thanks in advance,
Fran
John N
Loc: HP14 3QF Stokenchurch, UK
Did you have lens stabilisation turned off? Leaves may have been blowing in a very slight breeze - and not much can be done about that. Top right hand corner shows definite signs shake. A no. of reasons could cause this.
A lightweight tripod - one not really suited to the weight of the equipment you used.
Pressing the shutter button - use the timer or a remote switch.
Accidental knock.
But we've all got to start somewhere, and I think this start shows promise for future efforts.
Nice work. I usually wait for an overcast day that allows for longer exposure. The example was shot from a tripod, 2 second exposure. 400 ISO & f10 aperture. There was a slight breeze that early morning. Straight Branch Falls in Damascus Virginia.
Not bad. There is a lot of variation possible with "blurry."
Ben's nana wrote:
So this is my first real attempt at this technique. It was a slightly windy day. I shot at f/20, 1/5 sec, iso 250, on tripod. Although I'm overall happy with it, on magnification the leaves are a little blurry. What could I have done differently?
Thanks in advance,
Fran
ND filter works good for this Fran, first attempt is pretty good.
Two things pop into my mind why. And remember, my opinion and $1.19 gets you a coffee at the Marathon gas station.
First, you made a long exposure in windy conditions. If you were using a big camera, big lens or even just zoomed out, that can act like a sail and catch the wind. Even if you use a heavy tripod. As a corollary to that, wind also has a habit of making leaves move. In short, wind and long exposures don't work well. Long exposure can make water ripples look smooth, but it will make waves fuzzy.
(A heavy tripod will help reduce vibrations and wind shaking, but it doesn't take much movement to effect the shot)
The other thing, though it may not be the issue, is small apertures have a tendency to diffuse. That makes them soft. An aperture of f20 would be bordering on that softness. The solution is to use a Neutral Density filter that will drop your aperture two or three stops.
In a pinch, if you don't have a ND filter, use a Circular Polarizer for some light reduction. Also, fix your ISO at 100. That should give you three stops and allow for that larger aperture. My preference is to try and keep shots in the f6.0 to 16 range. Of course, there will always be those shots where you need to go bigger or go home. But dropping down to a f8.0 or f11.0 might make a difference.
As mentioned above, shooting on an overcast day also helps with light reduction. However, often you want to have the sun bouncing off the trees / water. If you are interested in taking long shots, investing in some ND filters would be wise.
Good luck
I also have a strong interest in shooting water. I went out with a class from the University of North Georgia a couple of weeks ago to shoot streams and waterfalls around Dahlonega and Helen. I used a tripod with a remote release, generally ISO 100, f10 most of the time, between 3/10 - 1 second, all with a circular polarizer. If your tripod is lightweight try attaching a bag of sand or rocks to it.
dparenton wrote:
I also have a strong interest in shooting water. I went out with a class from the University of North Georgia a couple of weeks ago to shoot streams and waterfalls around Dahlonega and Helen. I used a tripod with a remote release, generally ISO 100, f10 most of the time, between 3/10 - 1 second, all with a circular polarizer. If your tripod is lightweight try attaching a bag of sand or rocks to it.
Thanks for the suggestions. BTW your pictures are great
Fran
John N wrote:
Did you have lens stabilisation turned off? Leaves may have been blowing in a very slight breeze - and not much can be done about that. Top right hand corner shows definite signs shake. A no. of reasons could cause this.
A lightweight tripod - one not really suited to the weight of the equipment you used.
Pressing the shutter button - use the timer or a remote switch.
Accidental knock.
But we've all got to start somewhere, and I think this start shows promise for future efforts.
Did you have lens stabilisation turned off? Leave... (
show quote)
Thanks John. I did use the shutter, will get a remote. Thanks for the encouragement
Fran
yonderplace wrote:
Nice work. I usually wait for an overcast day that allows for longer exposure. The example was shot from a tripod, 2 second exposure. 400 ISO & f10 aperture. There was a slight breeze that early morning. Straight Branch Falls in Damascus Virginia.
Very nice photo. I will try your settings next time
Fran
jerryc41 wrote:
Not bad. There is a lot of variation possible with "blurry."
Thanks Jerry. I'm determined to get this right
Fran
J-SPEIGHT wrote:
ND filter works good for this Fran, first attempt is pretty good.
Thanks Jay, I'm going to have to get one
Fran
Joe Blow wrote:
Two things pop into my mind why. And remember, my opinion and $1.19 gets you a coffee at the Marathon gas station.
First, you made a long exposure in windy conditions. If you were using a big camera, big lens or even just zoomed out, that can act like a sail and catch the wind. Even if you use a heavy tripod. As a corollary to that, wind also has a habit of making leaves move. In short, wind and long exposures don't work well. Long exposure can make water ripples look smooth, but it will make waves fuzzy.
(A heavy tripod will help reduce vibrations and wind shaking, but it doesn't take much movement to effect the shot)
The other thing, though it may not be the issue, is small apertures have a tendency to diffuse. That makes them soft. An aperture of f20 would be bordering on that softness. The solution is to use a Neutral Density filter that will drop your aperture two or three stops.
In a pinch, if you don't have a ND filter, use a Circular Polarizer for some light reduction. Also, fix your ISO at 100. That should give you three stops and allow for that larger aperture. My preference is to try and keep shots in the f6.0 to 16 range. Of course, there will always be those shots where you need to go bigger or go home. But dropping down to a f8.0 or f11.0 might make a difference.
As mentioned above, shooting on an overcast day also helps with light reduction. However, often you want to have the sun bouncing off the trees / water. If you are interested in taking long shots, investing in some ND filters would be wise.
Good luck
Two things pop into my mind why. And remember, my... (
show quote)
Thanks for all your your input. I will try these suggestions.
Fran
The image looks fine although if it were mine I would do a color correction. I see lots of blue in it.
The little branch is blurred because of the effect of the wind with a slow shutter speed.
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