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Auto ISO sensitivity advice
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Mar 11, 2018 12:36:40   #
redhogbill Loc: antelope, calif
 
watching

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Mar 24, 2018 11:16:26   #
rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA
 
DavidPine wrote:
The D500 handles higher ISO's quite well. The D750 not so well, in my opinion. I don't normally shoot RAW

Most of the Nikon users who post here say the opposite .... in fact they consider the D750 to be a "high ISO monster". I believe DxOMark agrees with them - but I'll leave you guys to figure that out. As a Pentax user, I know that their latest cameras have the ISO range I want.

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Mar 24, 2018 11:31:19   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
rehess wrote:
Most of the Nikon users who post here say the opposite .... in fact they consider the D750 to be a "high ISO monster". I believe DxOMark agrees with them - but I'll leave you guys to figure that out. As a Pentax user, I know that their latest cameras have the ISO range I want.


Those Nikon users are correct, as good as the D500 is, a FF like the D750 of similar vintage is going to have an advantage in low light, high ISO situations - usually in the neighborhood of 1 - 1/12 stops. A quick look at the chart from this site confirms that: http://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm

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May 12, 2018 12:39:11   #
RickL Loc: Vail, Az
 
willy6419 wrote:
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mostly landscapes and wildlife, working on BIF skills in preparation for 5+ weeks in Alaska. Nikon D 500 and D 750 bodies with a variety of lenses. Normally RAW and Lightroom post processing. Tripod or monopod when i can.

I'm experimenting with Auto ISO for wildlife to maintain desired shutter speed image quality, in varying light conditions. My goal is tact sharp image.

Any advice to speed my learning curve or redirect my thinking is appreciated.
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mo... (show quote)


The goal is to capture your subject well. I use both straight manual and auto iso.

Rick

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May 12, 2018 13:46:00   #
jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska
 
Last weekend I photographed another motorcycle trials event. As usual, I set the camera to continuous 1/1000, f5.6, auto ISO, 1/3 stop underexposure, and 2200 images later have 2200 useable images to select from. This combination assures me that the ISO will be between about 200-800 depending on the light/shade conditions. Don't know how I'd do it otherwise.

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May 13, 2018 14:03:11   #
via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP
 
willy6419 wrote:
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mostly landscapes and wildlife, working on BIF skills in preparation for 5+ weeks in Alaska. Nikon D 500 and D 750 bodies with a variety of lenses. Normally RAW and Lightroom post processing. Tripod or monopod when i can.

I'm experimenting with Auto ISO for wildlife to maintain desired shutter speed image quality, in varying light conditions. My goal is tact sharp image.

Any advice to speed my learning curve or redirect my thinking is appreciated.
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mo... (show quote)


Wow, a lot of advice on this topic and all over the place. I would recommend that you know your equipment well to begin with and then experiment. I never say "never" when giving advice except to use it to say don't use it! I shoot wildlife as often as possible and a lot of birds in flight. I set my camera for whatever is happening at that point in time to get the image I want. I use manual, aperture and shutter priority depending on the moment. I use auto-iso or set the iso as I determine is needed. When taking advice from others be sure to check their photos out to see what they've shot as many people think they got great photos but then someone looks at them and goes, "huh?" I only take advice from people who show me the proof. The photo below was shot yesterday, setting was ISO 800, F/8 because I had plenty of light, and a high shutter speed, 1/3200 (you need to figure out how fast the subject is moving and then what shutter speed will work for that particular subject at that time): I'm into a high shutter speed for motion photos so everything is secondary, including noise to within an acceptable range. I think you should use whatever settings work for the moment and if you know your camera you will know what the settings might be. Also, listen to Steve Perry!

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Jun 12, 2018 18:20:29   #
IDguy Loc: Idaho
 
If you think about it, not having an “I” mode on digitial cameras is a mindset throwback to film, when the way to change ISO was not doable with camera controls. Hopefully some camera manufacturers will correct this anachronism in the future.

I pretty much only use auto ISO with M when photographing wildlife handheld with a long lens. I learned it from Steve’s excellent book. It made my shooting so much better on my Africa trip where the animals often didn’t leave you time to fuss with ISO as they moved in and out of shadow.

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Jun 12, 2018 18:22:29   #
IDguy Loc: Idaho
 
via the lens wrote:
Wow, a lot of advice on this topic and all over the place. I would recommend that you know your equipment well to begin with and then experiment. I never say "never" when giving advice except to use it to say don't use it! I shoot wildlife as often as possible and a lot of birds in flight. I set my camera for whatever is happening at that point in time to get the image I want. I use manual, aperture and shutter priority depending on the moment. I use auto-iso or set the iso as I determine is needed. When taking advice from others be sure to check their photos out to see what they've shot as many people think they got great photos but then someone looks at them and goes, "huh?" I only take advice from people who show me the proof. The photo below was shot yesterday, setting was ISO 800, F/8 because I had plenty of light, and a high shutter speed, 1/3200 (you need to figure out how fast the subject is moving and then what shutter speed will work for that particular subject at that time): I'm into a high shutter speed for motion photos so everything is secondary, including noise to within an acceptable range. I think you should use whatever settings work for the moment and if you know your camera you will know what the settings might be. Also, listen to Steve Perry!
Wow, a lot of advice on this topic and all over th... (show quote)


Steve’s photos demonstrate why we need to pay attention to him.

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Jun 24, 2018 10:11:53   #
wapiti Loc: round rock, texas
 
Steve Perry wrote:
Auto ISO is simply a tool and can be incredibly beneficial if you know how to use it. The only autoexposure mode I use when shooting wildlife is Manual + Auto ISO. This allows me to set the shutter speed and F/stop while the camera floats the ISO. This puts the two most important exposure controls into your hands. Sure, sometimes I need full manual mode, but when the situation is such that you can let the camera do some of the work, I don't think you can beat M + Auto ISO (often with a little exposure comp).

Check out my wildlife galleries - 70~80% of the images you see were shot using M + Auto ISO (The rest were full manual mode)
https://backcountrygallery.com/wildlife/

I did a video on the technique if you want to take look:
https://backcountrygallery.com/manual-mode-with-auto-iso/
Auto ISO is simply a tool and can be incredibly be... (show quote)


Wow, great video, Steve. While I subscribe to all of your "stuff", I guess that this came up prior to my signing up. Thanks. BTW, I have your ebooks, but Auto ISO is something that never appealed to me. Until, now.

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Jun 24, 2018 12:31:19   #
RickL Loc: Vail, Az
 
MT Shooter wrote:
I have been shooting wildlife professionally since the early 1970's and Auto ISO would be one of the LAST settings I would choose. I always select my ISO & WB based on the scene and light I am shooting in.


Steve Perry is a pro and has a good discussion on auto iso.

I use auto iso for action nature and all manual for landscape

Rick

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Aug 17, 2018 10:53:56   #
SpyderJan Loc: New Smyrna Beach. FL
 
Steve Perry wrote:
Auto ISO is simply a tool and can be incredibly beneficial if you know how to use it. The only autoexposure mode I use when shooting wildlife is Manual + Auto ISO. This allows me to set the shutter speed and F/stop while the camera floats the ISO. This puts the two most important exposure controls into your hands. Sure, sometimes I need full manual mode, but when the situation is such that you can let the camera do some of the work, I don't think you can beat M + Auto ISO (often with a little exposure comp).

Check out my wildlife galleries - 70~80% of the images you see were shot using M + Auto ISO (The rest were full manual mode)
https://backcountrygallery.com/wildlife/

I did a video on the technique if you want to take look:
https://backcountrygallery.com/manual-mode-with-auto-iso/
Auto ISO is simply a tool and can be incredibly be... (show quote)


Steve I just went back to your wildlife gallery. What a great portfolio. Ever since I got my new D500, I have used Manual with Auto ISO almost exclusively. I started photography a long time ago in film so I am not unfamiliar with manual. Thank you for your great advice and training videos.

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Aug 17, 2018 12:27:08   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
willy6419 wrote:
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mostly landscapes and wildlife, working on BIF skills in preparation for 5+ weeks in Alaska. Nikon D 500 and D 750 bodies with a variety of lenses. Normally RAW and Lightroom post processing. Tripod or monopod when i can.

I'm experimenting with Auto ISO for wildlife to maintain desired shutter speed image quality, in varying light conditions. My goal is tact sharp image.

Any advice to speed my learning curve or redirect my thinking is appreciated.
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mo... (show quote)


[deleted]

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Aug 17, 2018 15:59:33   #
Daryl New Loc: Wellington,New Zealand
 
Thanks Steve,appreciated.

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Oct 18, 2019 07:34:12   #
Jimmy T Loc: Virginia
 
Steve Perry wrote:
Auto ISO is simply a tool and can be incredibly beneficial if you know how to use it. The only autoexposure mode I use when shooting wildlife is Manual + Auto ISO. This allows me to set the shutter speed and F/stop while the camera floats the ISO. This puts the two most important exposure controls into your hands. Sure, sometimes I need full manual mode, but when the situation is such that you can let the camera do some of the work, I don't think you can beat M + Auto ISO (often with a little exposure comp).

Check out my wildlife galleries - 70~80% of the images you see were shot using M + Auto ISO (The rest were full manual mode)
https://backcountrygallery.com/wildlife/

I did a video on the technique if you want to take look:
https://backcountrygallery.com/manual-mode-with-auto-iso/
Auto ISO is simply a tool and can be incredibly be... (show quote)


I use M + Auto ISO whenever there are rapidly changing lighting conditions, and it vastly increases my "keepers".
Steve is always a great resource for all things photographic.
Smile,
Jimmy T Sends
Bravo Zulu

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Nov 6, 2019 18:54:38   #
RickL Loc: Vail, Az
 
willy6419 wrote:
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mostly landscapes and wildlife, working on BIF skills in preparation for 5+ weeks in Alaska. Nikon D 500 and D 750 bodies with a variety of lenses. Normally RAW and Lightroom post processing. Tripod or monopod when i can.

I'm experimenting with Auto ISO for wildlife to maintain desired shutter speed image quality, in varying light conditions. My goal is tact sharp image.

Any advice to speed my learning curve or redirect my thinking is appreciated.
I'm an amateur hobbyist that shoots some macro, mo... (show quote)


Watch Steve Perry on the case for auto iso. I used full manual for two years and find it works best for landscape and portrait photography but not action wildlife photography. I use auto iso for wildlife under varying light conditions and have won many international awards for my photography. I still use full manual for landscape and portrait. My goal is to get the best shot. For many years I shot full manual with Film using both twin lens and single lens reflex. My advice, use what best works for you. It isn’t a competition for right or wrong try them both and use what gives you the best results

Rick

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