Manual exposure in bright sunlight
Jan 29, 2018 12:20:06 #
I carry a small hand held light meter in my bag. After testing the meter, it was adjusted to match the in camera meter. Though small, the hand held meter can be used as a spot meter, and incident light meter (my prefered mode), or a reflective light meter. It is a carry over from when I used a film camera and has been an excellent backup for the various digital cameras I hace owned over the past decade or two.
Jan 29, 2018 12:38:00 #
rmalarz wrote:
I wear glasses, too. I've never had an issue when using the viewfinder. That seems odd.
--Bob
--Bob
The problem is seeing in the viewfinder which I am the same as you I don't have any problem. It's not about shooting manual because even if you shoot in P you should check your exposure data too. If you can't see the data it's a problem.
Jan 29, 2018 12:48:09 #
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
Yes, the Sunny 16 rule.
Yep, copy the settings from his posting. Two additional notes here:
1) I always turn around so the sun is at my back and then lower the camera's screen down into the shadow I created and look at the image there.
2) The other point is that a lot of times f/16 is not sharp with today's digital cameras due to diffraction. So I use the sunny 16 rule too, but I always will decrease my aperture to f/8 and then halve the ISO to get the correct shutter speed. For example: At f/8, with an ISO of 200, I set the shutter speed to 100-125. If this is not fast enough to stop the action, but bump up the shutter speed and raise the ISO accordingly, but keep the aperture at f/8. Works like a charm and I don't have to worry about sand or snow reflections fooling the meter.
Jan 29, 2018 12:49:51 #
SharpShooter wrote:
Nuts, welcome to the Hog!
You must be a real beginner......, why else would you be messing with manual?!
Learn to use your camera and move on!!!
SS
You must be a real beginner......, why else would you be messing with manual?!
Learn to use your camera and move on!!!
SS
Whhhhhhaaaaaaaattttt????
Jan 29, 2018 12:58:30 #
I did at beginning of page 2...
mikegreenwald wrote:
Why has no-one mentioned an exposure meter? They still work fine, and not just with antique cameras.
Jan 29, 2018 13:06:32 #
nimblenuts wrote:
I wear eyeglasses so the shroud on the viewfinder cup will not prevent light from leaking in between the eyeglasses and the viewfinder. Are there any hoods manufactured for back screen? Seems that would help.
Wear a baseball cap and use the brim to shade the sun.
Jan 29, 2018 13:08:06 #
nimblenuts wrote:
I am almost unable to set exposure in the manual mode of my D3200 Nikon in bright sunlight. If I use the viewfinder I find I have to use my hand to cover the viewfinder, otherwise I cannot see the exposure setting. This slows me down considerably and makes me doubt that I should be messing with manual settings at all in bright sunlight. I have the same problem with back screen, it's just too bright out to reliably see the screen and exposure setting. Suggestions?
I have the same problem and honestly, I'm nearly resorting to throwing a black towel over my head like photographers use to 100 yrs ago to block out unwanted light to focus or make adjustments! I'm serious about the towel thing!!!!! But you get the idea.....
Jan 29, 2018 13:13:16 #
Jan 29, 2018 13:16:18 #
Would iso 400, f/8 = 1/1600s shutter speed?
I usually use f/8, auto iso set to - 100-800, and 1/2000s. Then I recheck the light meter and adjust f/stop to f/7.1 or 6.3 or drop shutter 1/1600s. But that’s a lot of tinkering to do when that Rough-legged Hawk is hovering nearby!
I usually use f/8, auto iso set to - 100-800, and 1/2000s. Then I recheck the light meter and adjust f/stop to f/7.1 or 6.3 or drop shutter 1/1600s. But that’s a lot of tinkering to do when that Rough-legged Hawk is hovering nearby!
Jan 29, 2018 13:37:13 #
What DeanS said. Put 'er on Aperture priority...ISO 100 or 200 and bang away. If you are skeptical, bracket plus or minus a little and shoot burst of 3. IMHO.
Jan 29, 2018 13:49:44 #
nimblenuts wrote:
I am almost unable to set exposure in the manual mode of my D3200 Nikon in bright sunlight. If I use the viewfinder I find I have to use my hand to cover the viewfinder, otherwise I cannot see the exposure setting. This slows me down considerably and makes me doubt that I should be messing with manual settings at all in bright sunlight. I have the same problem with back screen, it's just too bright out to reliably see the screen and exposure setting. Suggestions?
You *could* rely on variants of the "Sunny 16" rule... In other words, in bright sun, for front-lit subjects, use the fraction 1/ISO as the shutter speed at f/16, or 1/(2xISO) at f/11, or 1/(4xISO) at f/8...
For back-lit subjects in bright sun, record raw images and open up two stops from the "Sunny 16" calculation. Then recover highlights in Lightroom.
All cameras with pentamirror reflex viewing systems seem to have this problem for some users. Cameras such as the D7xxx series have pentaprisms, which transmit more light. They also tend to produce bigger images, which are easier to see.
Jan 29, 2018 14:18:11 #
Is this what is called the Sunny 16?
Uuglypher wrote:
Bright sun?
Sharp, distinct shadows?
F/16,shutter reciprocal of ISO
(...or equivalent, balancing dark and bright stops)
‘nuff said?
Dave
Sharp, distinct shadows?
F/16,shutter reciprocal of ISO
(...or equivalent, balancing dark and bright stops)
‘nuff said?
Dave
Jan 29, 2018 14:40:56 #
John_F wrote:
Is this what is called the Sunny 16?
Yes. See above.
Kodak used to print the full variants of the rule on the inside of a film box. Negative film had enough latitude that, if you followed their rules, you didn't really need a meter. Slide film was a completely different story!
In other words, if you use the Sunny 16 rule, record raw images and post-process them. Raw files are similar to unprocessed color negatives, while JPEGs are similar to processed color slides (when it comes to exposure latitude).
Jan 29, 2018 14:44:01 #
Shel B wrote:
What DeanS said. Put 'er on Aperture priority...ISO 100 or 200 and bang away. If you are skeptical, bracket plus or minus a little and shoot burst of 3. IMHO.
Certainly my way of thinking for most shots. But if timing is not a factor, play around as much as you like. Keep in mind though, that while you are tinkering, that big, beauty of an eagle is long gone.
Jan 29, 2018 14:46:37 #
photoman022
Loc: Manchester CT USA
Uuglypher wrote:
Bright sun?
Sharp, distinct shadows?
F/16,shutter reciprocal of ISO
(...or equivalent, balancing dark and bright stops)
‘nuff said?
Dave
Sharp, distinct shadows?
F/16,shutter reciprocal of ISO
(...or equivalent, balancing dark and bright stops)
‘nuff said?
Dave
you said it so I don't need to!
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