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Jan 7, 2018 11:46:23   #
hankswan
 
If you were using corel Paint Shop Pro you could use the thinify (sp) command to take some of wideness off! Just a thought.

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Jan 7, 2018 11:47:51   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
jackpi wrote:
That only makes sense if the computer screen's pixels are 1 7/9 time as wide as they are tall!


No. Depends on the screen resolution. The aspect ratio of the screen resolution that’s set does not necessarily match the aspect ratio of the display. Easy enough to prove. Pick a wide screen monitor and try changing the screen resolution to several different settings with the ap or image full-screen. You can easily pick resolutions that fill the screen and make the image too wide. Remember that the number of pixels in the image do not map directly to the pixels on the screen - the video card and driver interpolate as required to produce the image that fulfills the requirements of the resolution set.

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Jan 7, 2018 11:51:03   #
Linda Ewing Loc: Lincolnshire,UK
 
Thank you all, your replies have been very helpful indeed.

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Jan 7, 2018 11:52:52   #
Burtzy Loc: Bronx N.Y. & Simi Valley, CA
 
daffygirl wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell me why the people (including me) look much wider in my photos than we are in real life I am shooting with a Nikon D3200 in portrait orientation and no matter how close or far away I shoot- people look fat! Is there a remedy for this (other than dropping a few lbs)???

Shooting from too close with a wide lens exaggerates (distorts) shots of anything. The human body is a victim of this. Also, it is worse of the camera is shooting from below. In portraiture, it is best to shoot from further away with a longer focal length and keeping the camera nearly vertical. A slight down angle doesn't usually hurt. And if you are actually shooting a portrait, try keeping the camera at the subject's eye-level. These aren't rules, but suggestions. And if they are rules in your opinion, feel free to break them to accommodate your particular taste.

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Jan 7, 2018 11:54:29   #
cjc2 Loc: Hellertown PA
 
Backup (back away from the subject) and use a mild, or stronger, telephoto. 85mm at least, 105mm, 135mm or a 70-200 in that range. Try it and see if it improves things in your view. Best of luck.

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Jan 7, 2018 12:03:18   #
chrisg-optical Loc: New York, NY
 
daffygirl wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell me why the people (including me) look much wider in my photos than we are in real life I am shooting with a Nikon D3200 in portrait orientation and no matter how close or far away I shoot- people look fat! Is there a remedy for this (other than dropping a few lbs)???


I sometimes kid with my mom when a really obese person appears on TV and tell her the TV is making him/her look fat.

Of course, in photography, we can post in Ps and use the "slenderizing" filter for a flattering effect :) Also depends on the lens used....longer telephoto works better for portrait/ people photos 50-100 (apsc in your case) or 75-120 for FF. Wider lenses tend to exaggerate curves and features.

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Jan 7, 2018 12:03:49   #
RRS Loc: Not sure
 
daffygirl wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell me why the people (including me) look much wider in my photos than we are in real life I am shooting with a Nikon D3200 in portrait orientation and no matter how close or far away I shoot- people look fat! Is there a remedy for this (other than dropping a few lbs)???


First , what lens are you using? Second there's an easy way with the right software to take off those 10 lbs. HOWEVER, if you ever do this, don't ever, ever tell anyone what you have done. It's like retouching, should never be obvious but people will always like their picture but not know why!

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Jan 7, 2018 12:04:33   #
JohnSwanda Loc: San Francisco
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
The camera or the lens adding “weight” or width to any subjects, as a rule, is pure mythology. If this is happening in all your images, somewhere in your process you are introducing some form of distortion due to a technical error or poor photographic technique. If you are going to solver this problem, some logical troubleshooting is in order.

If this distortion is being introduced in the camera due to an error in focal length usage, an awkward camera position or even some defect or aberration in the lens, this distortion would be apparent in your viewfinder or on the viewing screen of you camera, that is if you observe the image carefully. This kind of distortion would also affect the shape or proportions of objects, other than human subjects. As a troubleshooting test procedure, photograph a few common objects around you home and see if the are rendered somewhat correctly using your normal lens or focal focal length setting (such as a focal length of 50mm on a full frame body or 35mm on a crop body.). Do this keeping the camera parallel to the object- do not shoot up or down at the object.

To level the playing field, so to speak, you need to make sure that your monitor is set at the proper aspect ratio and is not stretching the subject to fit the full screen. If your viewing system is out of adjustment, you will not be able to establish any norms. On the old CRT TV sets, a test pattern was employed to establish horizontal linearity- see if you can create a test target with a perfect circle in the middle and make certain that the circle does not appear as an oval or elliptical shape on the screen.

If everything is working properly, the next thing to consider is your “portrait” technique. Portraits or just general photographs of people are best done with a normal or moderately long lens. Camera position, in relation to the subject is important to consider as well. A full length image with the camera between 10 and 15 feet from the subject, depending on their height, with a normal lens or focal length setting, the camera should be positioned to a height at the subject's waist level. In a ¾ length image, again with a normal lens or setting, the camera at about 6 to 8 feet from the subject, the camera height should be at the subject's chest level. In a head and shoulders image, with the camera tat about 5 to 6 feet away, again with a normal focal length, the camera height should be at the subject's eye level or slightly above. If you make the mistake of shooting down at your subject, some foreshortening will occur. Shooting from a lower than normal height will cause a disproportionate lengthening of the subject. ¾ length, head and shoulders and closeup head shots are best done with a longer lens or focal length setting (between 85 and 105mm is ideal for a full frame camera).

If the subject is actually heavy set or full figured and you wish to minimize this appearance, there are posing and lighting techniques that can be employed. Establishing a stance where the subject's body is NOT head on to the camera is helpful- a position whereby the body is approximately 45 degrees to the camera is advisable. Flat lighting should be avoided- natural light or off camera flash striking the subject at anywhere between 35 and 90 degrees from the camera/subject axis will have a slimming effect. Darker clothing in solid shades and the avoidance of horizontal stripes or patterns will be helpful as well. Of course, all of this is applicable in some kind of a planned shot or formal session. If you are shooting on the fly or indiscriminately, you get what you get- it is what it is!

Most of theses aesthetics can be managed at the camera and should not require all kinds of unnatural “slimming” during editing and unless you are a skill retoucher, most of that stuff looks artificial.
The aforementioned are excerpts from traditional portraiture techniques and obviously can not necessarily applied to situations where the photographer has no control or does not wish to exercise such control. In formal portraiture, theses things are often a question of vanity and the subject's self image. I have been involved in professional portraiture for a very long time. I find that most folks like to appear at their best in photographs yet, they don't expect to look like “somebody else”. I can write a book about body types and self image but suffice it to say that most heavier folks don't expect to look “skinny” but do want to appear heavier than they are.

By the way- shooting in "portrait" orientation only refers to a vertical composition as opposed to "landscape" orientation means a horizontal format. So...portrait orientation does not automatically set things up, technically, for correct perspective and some portraits can be perfectly and artistically composed in a horizontal orientation.

I hope this helps.. If you are especially interested in portrait photography, visit us the “Advanced and Professional Portraiture” section here on the Hog. We are planing lots of Q&A and other interesting tutorials for the new year.
The camera or the lens adding “weight” or width to... (show quote)


"most heavier folks don't expect to look “skinny” but do want to appear heavier than they are."? I hope that was a typo and you meant to say they don't want to appear heavier than they are. I do mostly business portraits, and even though I know the tricks of lighting and posing and use a long lens, I still get people who feel they appear heavier in the photos than they think they are. And not just obviously obese people - they are often more realistic. And they are mostly grateful when I can slim them some to match their perception of themselves.

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Jan 7, 2018 12:04:36   #
bamfordr Loc: Campbell CA
 
How are you looking at the photos? I wonder if there is some horizontal distortion if the image is being resized to fit a “window” that does not have the same proportions as the original image.

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Jan 7, 2018 12:10:30   #
lsupremo Loc: Palm Desert, CA
 
daffygirl wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell me why the people (including me) look much wider in my photos than we are in real life I am shooting with a Nikon D3200 in portrait orientation and no matter how close or far away I shoot- people look fat! Is there a remedy for this (other than dropping a few lbs)???


Sorry daffygirl for all the non helpful comments, but the cameras image can be misleading because it focuses on your subject and blurs all else. It also can blur the models edges if your shooting wide open giving aa feeling of being wider. As stated a wide angle lens also can distort.

You can skinny up your images in PP if your want.

Keep creating!

Frank

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Jan 7, 2018 13:09:20   #
Paul Buckhiester Loc: Columbus, GA USA
 
daffygirl wrote:
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone could tell me why the people (including me) look much wider in my photos than we are in real life I am shooting with a Nikon D3200 in portrait orientation and no matter how close or far away I shoot- people look fat! Is there a remedy for this (other than dropping a few lbs)???


Posing is critical when you want to make you subjects look their best. I recommend you check out some of the excellent posing classes on CreativeLive.

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Jan 7, 2018 13:11:48   #
Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States
 
daffygirl wrote:
Also, I am shooting the pic in "portrait orientation" I am not necessarily shooting "a portrait". Any shot with people in it turns out on the wide side. And not just the people in the pic, but buildings, trees, cats, dogs, etc... EVERYTHING looks squat and wide.


Not knowing how you are viewing (or printing), it almost sounds like your display or printer is set to "fill" the screen. This will widen (stretch) a portrait orientation. It will also vertically stretch a landscape orientation. For example, printing a 3:2 image to fill an 8x10 will widen the 8" side. A 3:2 image will fit an 8x12 with no distortion.

Look at the second comparison (aspect ratio conversion) between the first and third images. The third image is stretched, thus looks wider. http://mymindseye.us/AspectRatio.html

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Jan 7, 2018 13:17:46   #
eviemyoung
 
Thats why they have the liquify tool in PS

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Jan 7, 2018 13:38:00   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
@John! Yes! that was a typo- my computer is down and at the shop and I am typing on my phone- so my ordinarily bad typographical skills are worsened by the small keyboard and my disproportionately large hands.

I also do quite a good volume of business and corporate portraiture as well as general and theatrical work. Undoubtedly, most of my clients appreciate flattery in their results .Of course, in most studio and location conditions, I have very finite control over lighting, posing and camera position. I also do quite a bit of wedding photography and have learned to apply many of my studio techniques in less that ideal conditions. The OP, however, does not mention any kind of formal working environment so all I could suggest is to apply a few simple troubleshooting procedures and issue a few tips for better results.

Thanks for your heads up on the typo. I need a secretary! Good thing- my lovely wife runs the office and looks after communications, however, she does not want to encourage my hanging out on the Hog on my days off!

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Jan 7, 2018 13:51:13   #
tdekany Loc: Oregon
 
daffygirl wrote:
Also, I am shooting the pic in "portrait orientation" I am not necessarily shooting "a portrait". Any shot with people in it turns out on the wide side. And not just the people in the pic, but buildings, trees, cats, dogs, etc... EVERYTHING looks squat and wide.


On this site, most people have this terrible habit of only reading the first/initial post and will never know if the op provided additional info.

If everything is wide, it is not your camera gear, but most likely a setting in your computer.

You really need to provide all the info you have and post a few examples, although how your computer is setup is not going to be addressed by the picture exif.

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