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What camera to buy can 5d mk4 or nik D500
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Jan 1, 2018 13:07:09   #
Haydon
 
1.) What's your budget?
2.) What subject matter is in your interest list?
3.) Do have have lenses from either manufacturer?
4.) Do you have any full frame lenses presently?

More information will give you a more informed answer.

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Jan 1, 2018 13:16:08   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
amfoto1 wrote:
Canon vs Nikon... both are good.

Previous response is correct... D500 and 5DIV really aren't comparable types of cameras.

Nikon D500 is a "crop sensor, APS-C" camera (as are Nikon D7200, D7500, D5600, D3400 models... Nikon calls these "DX" cameras).
Canon 7D Mark II is most comparable to D500, also a "crop sensor" camera (as are Canon 80D, 77D, T7i, T6 and SL2).

Nikon D850 is a "full frame" model (as are D750, D610 and D5... Nikon calls these "FX" cameras).
Canon 5D Mark IV is most comparable to the D810... both are 36MP models. The D810 has recently been discontinued, but is widely available.
Canon 5DS-R is a 50MP model that's more comparable to the 46MP Nikon D850 (and other full frame Canon are 6D Mark II and 1DX Mark II)

Your Nikon Photomic (I'm assuming an F or F2) 35mm film camera was "full frame". By definition, "full frame" digital capture an image that's 24x36mm, same as most 35mm film SLRs did. Any lenses used upon it that you still have MIGHT be usable on the above Nikon DSLRs... but ALSO can usually be used on the Canon cameras via inexpensive adapters. Nikon cameras may be able to use many excellent old Nikon F-mount lenses... But, in addition to F-mount, modern Canon can utilize many DIFFERENT vintage system lenses via adapters (Nikon cannot). OTOH, Canon "orphaned" their own FD/FL mount lenses (discontinued prior to 1990), and those are largely not usable on modern Canon, even though adapters exist.

Lenses "act differently" on crop versus full frame cameras. They behave the same on FF, but due to the smaller size sensor they "act longer" on the APS-C crop sensor models. For example, while a 50mm f/1.4 lens serves as a "normal" lens on full frame and film cameras, on any of the crop sensor cameras the came lens will act as a short, fast telephoto (equivalent to "75mm on film" on the Nikon bodies, or equiv. to "80mm on film" on the Canon APS-C models... they use slightly different size sensors). The crop sensor works for you in some respects, against you in others. Telephotos are more powerful (so can be smaller and lighter). But wide angles are no longer very wide (so there have been "ultrawides" developed, especially for use on crop cameras).

Full frame/FX cameras basically require full frame/FX lenses. Crop sensor models, on the other hand, can use both full frame/FX lenses and crop-only/DX lenses that have been developed in recent years.

Crop sensor cameras and the lenses used upon them can be lower cost, smaller and lighter weight. A typical 21MP or 24MP crop sensor camera can make excellent images. They also often have faster frame rates, faster flash sync and some other advantages over full frame. Nikon D500 and Canon 7D Mark II, for example, are top performing "sports/action" cameras... pro quality. A step down, Canon 80D and Nikon D7200 are slightly slower shooting, but slightly higher resolution. (Technically, D7200 is discontinued and replaced with D7500 that's faster, but lower resolution. D7200 is still widely avail.)

Full frame cameras generally excel when you want to shoot in particularly low light with especially high ISOs. The higher resolution models also are able to make larger prints than crop sensor cameras. These are the "ultimate" in image quality and detail, short of going to a medium format digital (Mamiya, Pentax, Fuji, Hasselblad). But to see the image quality benefits of full frame/FX, you really need to make BIG prints. For what most people print... and certainly for most online image display which is even smaller size... you will really struggle to see any difference between crop/DX and FF/FX.

Personally I use both types of cameras. Most of my shooting is sports with crop sensor cameras. I also prefer them for most wildlife and some other purposes. I use the full frame camera for landscape, architecture, some portraiture and some macro. I also used FF for low light in the past, but my newer crop sensor cameras are actually better at high ISO than my older FF, thanks to continuing improvements. Once I upgrade the FF model to a newer one, I'm sure that it will again be superior at low light work.

Let's talk about lenses....

If you get a Canon camera DO NOT buy the cheap EF 75-300mm "III" lens. It's one of Canon's worst... slower, noisier micro motor autofocus... no image stabilization... and marginal image quality, especially at the 300mm end of the zoom. You'll often see it "in kit" with various camera models, simply because it's inexpensive. Canon makes several 70-300mm lenses that are much better choices, though a little to a lot more expensive. EF 70-300mm IS USM "II" is about $450 and the latest version, with a new, advanced form of autofocus motor, image stabilization and more. EF 70-300mm "L" IS USM is premium/pro quality, costs a lot more at $1350, but is durable, weather resistant, and can optionally be fitted with a tripod mounting ring. A longer alternative that's even better is the EF 100-400mm L "II" IS USM, on sale for about $1900 right now.

The above are all Canon "full frame capable" lenses that will work fine on either FF or APS-C cameras. If you purchased an APS-C crop 7D Mark II or 80D, you'd also have choice of EF-S 55-250mm STM IS lens for about $300. EF-S lenses are designed for and can ONLY be used on the APS-C Canon cameras. They are NOT full frame compatible.

Canon uses three different types of autofocus drive... Micro motor is the slowest, noisiest and is found in the least expensive lenses. Lenses that use it aren't marked "STM" or "USM". STM is "stepper motor" and is faster, smoother running, and it's very quiet. It's often recommended for video, but is fine for all but the fastest action. USM is "ultrasonic motor" and is typically 2X to 4X faster than STM (so also far, far faster than micro motor), and is what you'll find on most premium and pro-oriented Canon lenses. USM is great for sports photography, active wildlife, as well as anything less demanding. It's quiet, but not silent, and it may not be as smooth running as STM... so may not be ideal for video. HOWEVER, in 2017 Canon introduced three lenses with a new "Nano USM", that's the best of both worlds. It's quiet & smooth like STM, plus it's fast and great tracking movement, like USM. The above mentioned EF 70-300mm IS USM "II" is one lens with the new drive. So are the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM "II" and the EF-S 18-135mm IS USM (the latter was the first lens introduced with it... there happen to be STM and micro motor versions of that lens too).

Finally, I've mentioned image stabilization in passing above. Using an F or F2 Photomic, you are probably unfamiliar with it. Canon pioneered putting stabilization in their SLR system lenses in the 1990s. It proved so successful that today EVERYONE offers some sort of stabilization... either in lenses (Canon IS, Nikon VR, Sony OSS) or by moving the sensor in the camera body (Pentax, Sony, Olympus). Stabilization is particularly helpful on hard-to-hold-steady telephotos, but more an more in normal to wide lenses too. The earlier forms of stabilization allowed two to three stops worth of assistance... while more recent offer up to around four stops worth. This means a 100mm lens you needed to use 1/100 shutter speed to insure a high percentage of sharp shots before... then it's stabilized you may be to hand hold with reasonable success at 1/12 or even 1/6 shutter speed, and with very good confidence at 1/25 or 1/50. Stabilization has been a real game changer... though higher usable ISO in newer cameras might seem to offset the need for it, the truth is that this just makes for even more flexibility to shoot in situations you never dreamed possible, back when you were shooting Ektachrome 100 and Velvia 50 with those old, manual focus lenses and clunky SLRs.

DO NOT scrimp on lenses. They're more important deciding the qualities of your images, than the camera they're used upon. ALL current DSLRs are quite capable... even the cheapest, most entry-level models. You'd be wise to spend less on the camera, more on the lenses.

I've used Canon examples above because that's the system I use and know best. There are similar choices among Nikon, I'm sure.

Nikon and Canon offer the most choice of DSLR models, as well as the broadest system of lenses and accessories to use upon them. For example, they each have about 90 lenses to choose among. I know Nikon has some limitations and it's a good idea to check compatibility charts on their website or elsewhere online, to be certain a lens under consideration will work on a particular camera. Aside from EF-S lenses only being usable on their APS-C cameras, there are no issues with Canon lenses and cameras made the last 30 years. Even the oldest EF lens will work just fine on the newest DSLR model.

Pentax, Sony, Olympus and others offer some excellent digital cameras too... but their systems just aren't nearly as comprehensive.

Third party manufacturers such as Tokina, Tamron and Sigma... as well as flash, etc. makers... also make the most items for Canon and Nikon... which they may or may not offer for other systems.

What lenses you might want depend on:

1. What you want to shoot and how you want to shoot it.
2. Whether you'll be using a crop sensor camera, full frame camera, or both.
3. How much you want to spend and how heavy gear you're willing to carry around.

Without knowing more of your particular plans and preferences, it's hard to recommend beyond the generalities described above.
Canon vs Nikon... both are good. br br Previous ... (show quote)



Much GOOD info here. You must understand the difference between full frame (FF, FX) and crop sensor (APS-C, DX). The FF uses a sensor the same size as 35mm film. The APS-C type has a smaller sensor that equates to using a lens of focal length 1.5 (or 1.6) times greater on a FF.

FF bodies are mostly more much expensive than APS-C, and many lenses are only available for the APS-C bodies. Lenses for FF work fine on APS-C bodies, as long as you realize the magnification factor.

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Jan 1, 2018 13:29:49   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
CHG_CANON wrote:
They're not the same class of camera. If you want a sports model with a cropped sensor, you'd look at a Canon 7D II vs a D500.

If you want a general purpose, high-resolution, full-frame model 1 step below the top-line models, you'd look at the 5DIV vs a D850.

If you don't own anything, you should look at Sony as well.





Ditto I second this.

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Jan 1, 2018 13:48:13   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
Another point; the advantage of FF is that for the same pixel count, the pixels are much larger and can function with much less noise levels and can work in dimmer light as they collect more light per pixel.

Reply
Jan 1, 2018 13:57:28   #
davyboy Loc: Anoka Mn.
 
DonaldSteinman wrote:
Hello
Don from glen cove here happy new year everyone
Just getting back into photog as hobby
Can I have some input please
Need lens advice as well
Thanx


Here is the real deal checkout the new ground up built magnesium bodied Panasonic G9 mind blowing

Reply
Jan 1, 2018 14:00:18   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
DonaldSteinman wrote:
Hello
Don from glen cove here happy new year everyone
Just getting back into photog as hobby
Can I have some input please
Need lens advice as well
Thanx


Here's my answer to a similar question in another thread.

Here's what I did:
-Budget: no more than $500. (This was the most important criteria I had.)
-Searched for $500 DSLR's on eBay & Amazon in order to understand what I might get.
-Found some favorite models that I compared side by side at cameradecision.com. I refused to have any brand preferences.
-I read plenty of reviews on the cameras I found interesting.

Here i€™s the compressed and abridged version:
Canon - Good for video. User friendly interface.
Nikon - Lots of very good lenses. Great pictures.
Pentax - Weather sealed. Excellent user interface.
Fujifilm - Mirrorless with great results.
Sony - Mirrorless. Makes the sensors for Nikon.
Olympus - Good cameras.

All cameras are compromises. Some are better for this, some are better for that. Some have preferred features, other’s don’t have them. You have to figure out what features and performances you want your camera to have to fit your needs.

My priorities were; very good professional reviews, the highest pixel count possible, RAW format option, wifi, built in GPS, fair prices & f/values on future lenses.

Nikon D5300 turned out to be the final option. With my personal preferences, and budget, it was by far the best option. Price paid: $449 on eBay, including an 18-55mm lens, plus some other (now useless)-stuff in the bundle.

I've had the camera since January 2017, and I have no regrets on my purchase. On the contrary, I'm very happy with what I got for the money I spent. Just for the fun of it, I still read reviews on other cameras. Time and time again the D5300 has proven to be the right choice for my kind of photography. I.e. so far no other camera has popped up as a better option.

Later I bought a 55-200mm, a 35mm, and a Tokina 11-20mm, all used lenses. A better speedlight/iTTL flash, a good tripod, petal lens hoods, third party battery grip, extra batteries, twin charger, better/faster memory card, micro extensions, and some other stuff. All from eBay which time after time confirms to provide the best prices. Next on the wish list is the Nikkor 16-80mm to replace the 18-55mm kit lens that came with the camera.

Your best option is probably not my best, and vice versa. It is not about the camera as much as it is about the photographer. Just as a good stove isn't enough to cook you a good dinner, right?

In order to update my knowledge I started off with reading Nikon D5300 For Dummies as well as Stunning Digital Photography by Tony Northrup. The third book was Secrets To The Nikon Autofocus System by Steve Perry, which is my favorite so far. The fourth book was Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson. It was all well invested pennies, and as knowledge has no weight it is easy to carry around. All books, but “Secrets to...” are available at Amazon.

https://backcountrygallery.com/secrets-nikon-autofocus-system/

Best of luck on your pursuit of your best camera. ...and don't rush it to get one. Take your time, i.e. weeks, to learn about your options and what you favor.

Regarding long range zoom lenses it is good to know that the longer the range the less the image quality at the far ends of the range. Lens reviews are found at cameradecision.com and lenstip.com, as well as at YouTube.

Examples of pictures I've shot are found under my name at 500px.com as well as at Instagram.com.

Here is a very informative D5300 Review:
https://sleeklens.com/nikon-d5300-review/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=weekly-blog&substat=blog

PS
I had the same procedure when I looked for, and bought, my sons camera. (He turned 6 at the end of July) The budget was no more than $80, had to be fully automatic, as well as having manual features to grow with as he gets older and if his photo interest persists. Best option: a used Fujifilm Finepix S8600 (it's a bridge camera), for $76 on eBay.

And there are instructive videos on his camera on YouTube for him to watch later.

PPS
Here is a different opinion on this issue.

https://petapixel.com/2017/03/24/battle-micro-43-camera-outsold-full-frame-dslr/

---

With courtesy of Jim Stascavage, member at this forum:

"For anyone wondering how big a crop sensor image can go, here is a photo I took with a D7200 a few years ago that makes up a 12'x16' [3.6x4.9 m] wall in our office break room."

-

He shot the picture from another water vessel, while it was moving!

FYI
1. All Nikon's with cropped 24MP sensors has the same sensor as Jim's D7200.
2. A modern TV is ~2MP. A 4K TV is 8+MP.



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Jan 1, 2018 14:02:15   #
Selene03
 
To the OP, you have gotten some good advice here on cameras: your original choices are comparing apples and oranges. What do you want to photograph? That might determine what camera you want to buy, but others have raised other considerations as well. On lenses, 70-300 is the zoom you want, I think. Canon does make a 75-300 zoom, but it is a lousy lens. Agree, too, that you are probably looking at a 50mm, not a 55, though I could be wrong here. I think we are all saying that we need more information, and you probably need to do a little more research too. Happy New Year.

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Jan 1, 2018 15:42:49   #
Vince68 Loc: Wappingers Falls, NY
 
DonaldSteinman wrote:
Coming from 35mm nik photomic
I use consumer reports to make my choices
I like can it got good reviews
I want to buy 2 lenses if u recommend
Thinking 55 1.4 & a 75-300 zoom


What Chg_Canon is telling you is the Canon you mentioned is a Full Frame camera. The sensor size is equivalent to 35mm film camera you are coming from. The Nikon camera you mention is an APS-C size sensor, or what is called a crop sensor. It is smaller than 35mm and full frame. So the two cameras you mentioned are not in the same class of camera. You should be comparing a Canon 5 mkIV to a Nikon D850 or D810, not the crop sensor D500.

And what you plan on shooting is important to make that decision too, be it sports, birds in flight, landscapes, architecture, family photos, etc.

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Jan 1, 2018 16:42:32   #
crazydaddio Loc: Toronto Ontario Canada
 
billnourse wrote:
I went from a Canon 70D crop sensor to a Canon 5d Mk 4 full frame, and am much happier with the FF, especially in low light. That being said, the D500 and the 5 D mk 4 are really not comparable.

The D500 might be better compared to the Canon 80D or 7D mk 2, while the 5D mk 4 is more like the Nikon 810 or 850. Another good FF Nikon choice, though dated, would be the D750.

Keep in mind that any of these choices are higher end units and are going to give best results when used with quality (usually expensive) lenses. I personally have a Canon 70-200 f2.8, a Canon 24-70 f 2.8, a Canon 50 1.8 and a Canon 24-105 f4. These seem to cover all the situations I shoot in.


Bill
I went from a Canon 70D crop sensor to a Canon 5d ... (show quote)


Ditto.
....but really consider check the Nikon d850...really does it all. If starting fresh, I would be tempted to go that route. If I never planned to do video.
I have the 5DmkIV and 70D. Video is much much better on the Canon systems but more flexibility with the Nikon D850 in terms of fps (for extra $$ grip and battery) and DR .

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Jan 1, 2018 18:12:51   #
BHamp00 Loc: Las Vegas
 
amfoto1 wrote:
Canon vs Nikon... both are good.

Some previous responses are correct... D500 and 5D Mark IV really aren't comparable types of cameras. Apples and oranges... Or maybe a tool analogy such as "pliers and hammers" would be more appropriate than fruit.

Nikon D500 is a "crop sensor, APS-C" camera (as are Nikon D7200, D7500, D5600, D3400 models... Nikon calls these "DX" cameras).
Canon 7D Mark II is most comparable to D500, also a "crop sensor" camera (as are Canon 80D, 77D, T7i, T6 and SL2).

Nikon D850 is a "full frame" model (as are D750, D610 and D5... Nikon calls these "FX" cameras).
Canon 5D Mark IV is most comparable to the D810... both are 36MP models. The D810 has recently been discontinued, but is widely available.
Canon 5DS-R is a 50MP model that's somewhat more comparable to the 46MP Nikon D850, except the Nikon is a newer, just introduced model with a lot of other improvements that are more "5D Mark IV" like)
Other full frame Canon are 6D Mark II and 1DX Mark II.
D5 and 1DX Mark II are very expensive, high-performance, pro-oriented models... that you've probably already ruled out.

Your Nikon Photomic (I'm assuming an F or F2) 35mm film camera was "full frame". By definition, "full frame" digital capture an image that's 24x36mm, same as most 35mm film SLRs did. Any lenses used upon it that you still have MIGHT be usable on the above Nikon DSLRs... but those same lenses ALSO can usually be used on the modern Canon cameras via inexpensive adapters. Nikon cameras may be able to use many excellent old Nikon F-mount lenses... But, in addition to F-mount, modern Canon can utilize many DIFFERENT vintage system lenses via adapters.... something that Nikon generally cannot do. OTOH, Canon "orphaned" their own FD/FL mount lenses (discontinued prior to 1990), and those are largely not usable or practical for use on modern Canon, even though adapters exist.

Lenses "act differently" on crop versus full frame cameras. Any given focal length will behave the same as you're familiar with on FF. But due to the smaller size sensor they "act longer" on the APS-C crop sensor models. For example, while a 50mm f/1.4 lens serves as a "normal" lens on full frame/film cameras, on any of the crop sensor cameras the same 50mm lens will act as a short, fast telephoto (equivalent to "75mm on film" on the Nikon bodies, or equiv. to "80mm on film" on the Canon APS-C models... they use slightly different size sensors). The crop sensor works for you in some respects, against you in others. Telephotos are more powerful (so can be smaller and lighter). But wide angles are no longer very wide (so there have been various "ultrawides" developed, especially for use on crop cameras).

Full frame/FX cameras basically require full frame/FX lenses. Crop sensor models, on the other hand, can use both full frame/FX lenses and crop-only/DX lenses that have been developed in recent years.

Crop sensor cameras and the lenses used upon them can be lower cost, smaller and lighter weight. A typical 21MP or 24MP crop sensor camera can make excellent images. They also often have faster frame rates, faster flash sync and some other advantages over full frame. Nikon D500 and Canon 7D Mark II, for example, are top performing "sports/action" cameras... pro quality. A step down, Canon 80D and Nikon D7200 are slightly slower shooting, but slightly higher resolution. (Technically, D7200 is discontinued and replaced with D7500 that's faster, but lower resolution. D7200 is still widely avail.)

Full frame cameras generally excel when you want to shoot in particularly low light with especially high ISOs. The higher resolution models also are able to make larger prints than crop sensor cameras. These are the "ultimate" in image quality and detail, short of going to a medium format digital (Mamiya, Pentax, Fuji, Hasselblad). But to see the image quality benefits of full frame/FX, you really need to make BIG prints. For what most people print... and certainly for most online image display which is even smaller size... you will really struggle to see any difference between crop/DX and FF/FX.

Personally I use both types of cameras. Most of my shooting is sports with crop sensor cameras. I also prefer them for most wildlife and some other purposes. I use the full frame camera for landscape, architecture, some portraiture and some macro. I also used FF for low light in the past, but my newer crop sensor cameras are actually better at high ISO than my older FF, thanks to continuing improvements. Once I upgrade the FF model to a newer one, I'm sure that it will again be superior at low light work.

Let's talk about lenses....

If you get a Canon camera DO NOT buy the cheap EF 75-300mm "III" lens. It's one of Canon's worst... slower, noisier micro motor autofocus... no image stabilization... and marginal image quality, especially at the 300mm end of the zoom. You'll often see it "in kit" with various camera models, simply because it's inexpensive. Canon makes several 70-300mm lenses that are much better choices, though a little to a lot more expensive. EF 70-300mm IS USM "II" is about $450 and the latest version, with a new, advanced form of autofocus motor, image stabilization and more. EF 70-300mm "L" IS USM is premium/pro quality, costs a lot more at $1350, but is durable, weather resistant, and can optionally be fitted with a tripod mounting ring. A longer alternative that's even better is the EF 100-400mm L "II" IS USM, on sale for about $1900 right now.

The above are all Canon "full frame capable" lenses that will work fine on either FF or APS-C cameras. If you purchased an APS-C crop 7D Mark II or 80D, you'd also have choice of EF-S 55-250mm STM IS lens for about $300. EF-S lenses are designed for and can ONLY be used on the APS-C Canon cameras. They are NOT full frame compatible.

Canon uses three different types of autofocus drive... Micro motor is the slowest, noisiest and is found in the least expensive lenses. Lenses that use it aren't marked "STM" or "USM". STM is "stepper motor" and is faster, smoother running, and it's very quiet. It's often recommended for video, but is fine for all but the fastest action. USM is "ultrasonic motor" and is typically 2X to 4X faster than STM (so also far, far faster than micro motor), and is what you'll find on most premium and pro-oriented Canon lenses. USM is great for sports photography, active wildlife, as well as anything less demanding. It's quiet, but not silent, and it may not be as smooth running as STM... so may not be ideal for video. HOWEVER, in 2017 Canon introduced three lenses with a new "Nano USM", that's the best of both worlds. It's quiet & smooth like STM, plus it's fast and great tracking movement, like USM. The above mentioned EF 70-300mm IS USM "II" is one lens with the new drive. So are the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM "II" and the EF-S 18-135mm IS USM (the latter was the first lens introduced with it... there happen to be STM and micro motor versions of that lens too).

Finally, I've mentioned image stabilization in passing above. Using an F or F2 Photomic, you are probably unfamiliar with it. Canon pioneered putting stabilization in their SLR system lenses in the 1990s. It proved so successful that today EVERYONE offers some sort of stabilization... either in lenses (Canon IS, Nikon VR, Sony OSS) or by moving the sensor in the camera body (Pentax, Sony, Olympus). Stabilization is particularly helpful on hard-to-hold-steady telephotos, but more an more in normal to wide lenses too. The earlier forms of stabilization allowed two to three stops worth of assistance... while more recent offer up to around four stops worth. This means a 100mm lens you needed to use 1/100 shutter speed to insure a high percentage of sharp shots before... then it's stabilized you may be to hand hold with reasonable success at 1/12 or even 1/6 shutter speed, and with very good confidence at 1/25 or 1/50. Stabilization has been a real game changer... though higher usable ISO in newer cameras might seem to offset the need for it, the truth is that this just makes for even more flexibility to shoot in situations you never dreamed possible, back when you were shooting Ektachrome 100 and Velvia 50 with those old, manual focus lenses and clunky SLRs.

DO NOT scrimp on lenses. They're more important deciding the qualities of your images, than the camera they're used upon. ALL current DSLRs are quite capable... even the cheapest, most entry-level models. You'd be wise to spend less on the camera, more on the lenses.

I've used Canon examples above because that's the system I use and know best. There are similar choices among Nikon, I'm sure.

Nikon and Canon offer the most choice of DSLR models, as well as the broadest system of lenses and accessories to use upon them. For example, they each have about 90 lenses to choose among. I know Nikon has some limitations and it's a good idea to check compatibility charts on their website or elsewhere online, to be certain a lens under consideration will work on a particular camera. Aside from EF-S lenses only being usable on their APS-C cameras, there are no issues with Canon lenses and cameras made the last 30 years. Even the oldest EF lens will work just fine on the newest DSLR model.

Pentax, Sony, Olympus and others offer some excellent digital cameras too... but their systems just aren't nearly as comprehensive.

Third party manufacturers such as Tokina, Tamron and Sigma... as well as flash, etc. makers... also make the most items for Canon and Nikon... which they may or may not offer for other systems.

What lenses you might want depend on:

1. What you want to shoot and how you want to shoot it.
2. Whether you'll be using a crop sensor camera, full frame camera, or both.
3. How much you want to spend and how heavy gear you're willing to carry around.

Without knowing more of your particular plans and preferences, it's hard to recommend much beyond the generalities described above.
Canon vs Nikon... both are good. br br Some prev... (show quote)


Great response... I'm heavily invested in Nikon gear and agree with much of what you have said. Recently I purchased a Sony A7RIII and a few lenses to go with it... I'm not going to get rid of my Nikon stuff anytime soon, however, it would be a no brainer if I were starting from scratch.

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Jan 1, 2018 19:03:42   #
camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.
 
By now you know that the cameras you have in mind are different. Full frame digital would be the equivalent of your Photomix when it comes to sensor size.
Both cameras could serve you well.
I guess that visiting a reputable camera store and holding those and other models in your hands you can have a good idea of which one will make you comfortable. The lenses, has been said, depends on what you want or shoot more often. With the full frame camera the 50mm f1.8 should do to start, the other lenses I am sure you will be able to select on your own.

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Jan 2, 2018 09:52:23   #
georgiapeach2 Loc: Georgia the Peach State
 
Blaster34 wrote:
Since the majority of Nikon sensors come from Sony start the new year out right, I say go for it all and get the best; either the Sony R7III or the Nikon 850....you only live once. Happy New Year


You are so right you only live once that is why I got another lens again the 16-300

Happy New Year!

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Jan 2, 2018 19:27:37   #
MidnightManiac
 
Being a Canon user the 5D markIV would be my camera of choice. Depends on what you're shooting, I love my 7DII for sports and some wildlife which is what I shoot most. For portraits and indoor (low light) love my 5D, when I travel and want to go light my T5i and 2 APS-C lenses do the job. Now here's the question, what lenses do you have or plan on buying? Good glass is not cheap and that's where I would put the money. Most of my lenses are full frame lenses and can be used on any of my cameras. There are 3 lenses IMO that cover just about all the bases, all are full frame lenses 24-70/ f2.8 L, 70-200/ f2.8 L, and a nifty 50mm f/1.8. Set a budget get a great camera body be it Canon or Nikon but leave a bit left for some great lenses. Tamron and Sigma make some great quality lenses for both brands.

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