boomboom wrote:
I had a question posed to me by a good friend and I felt like I couldn't answer it with any professional knowledge. When taking a picture of a bird in a tree or on a power line against a bright sky, is there a way to overcome getting just a sillouette of the bird? She wants more detail. I told her that sometimes you can better it in post processing, but you still need a decent picture to start with. Thanks for any trade secrets you may have to help her and I out on this one. Hope my question is clear enough to make a reply.
I had a question posed to me by a good friend and ... (
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Here is a link, 8 tips for photographing birds.
http://digital-photography-school.com/8-tips-for-photographing-birds
[quote=Indrajeet Singh]I use a protection filter to protect my lens, does nothing to alter image quality.
It is a proven fact they ( protection filters) do alter IQ ......some, more than others !
Extend telephoto lens or feature on point and shoot with goal to fill the viewfinder or screen with the bird as much as possible. Your camera meter will expose the bird much better the more it sees of the bird and the less it sees of the sky.
Use manual controls to expose for the bird not the "bright sky" which is what your camera light meter is reading. e.g. keep stopping down the aperture or increase shutter speed until bird is properly exposed. Try ISO around 200-400.
Otherwise you simply have to get closer to the bird. Good luck.
The reason really is that we have a lot of dust in India and the filter keeps the prospect of scratches on the lens down from continuous cleaning that is needed.
Thanks for the tip, will give it a go.
Indrajeet Singh wrote:
The reason really is that we have a lot of dust in India and the filter keeps the prospect of scratches on the lens down from continuous cleaning that is needed.
Thanks for the tip, will give it a go.
you might consider a brush that has a build in air bulb that can blow off dust or a small pressurized air container. This way if you regularly keep a lens cap on you will not to keep a filter on to keep the lens clean.
Like your birds, especially the second shot. Good job of pp!
BHC
Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA
Exposure compensation & Bracketing: +1,+1.5,+2 or, if your camera can do it, +1, +2, +3.
glojo
Loc: South Devon, England
Indrajeet Singh wrote:
I use a protection filter to protect my lens, does nothing to alter image quality.
I have ALWAYS done this and always will :thumbup:
Far better to have the filter scratched as opposed to the lens. Just like Indrajeet, it does not spoil the image but the laugh is I even have a filter on my 500mm prime and this filter fits within the actual lens as opposed to protecting the end glass!
There's nowt as weird as folk!
Polite Questions as opposed to statementsGetting as close to a wild bird as possible is EXCELLENT advice, BUT if you are shooting species that are not so obliging, then sadly the longer the lens the better, or invest in some type of hide..
Birds in flight I am finding to be a completely different ball game and so far all folks recommend has been spot metering but that to me is not the best option (it is though for focussing) :) If the bird is not fast moving and we can take compensatory exposures then that must also be an option worthy of consideration.
Next question..
Are the exposure sensors on differing models of camera different? In other words can one model camera cope better in certain conditions than others?
I read posts of pictures being down to 90% photographer and just 10% equipment are we serious about this claim other than weddings or to a degree portrait photography? Of course the more skilled photographer has years of experience, knowledge and expertise, which will give them an advantage, but will the best photographers have equipment that match their skills?
Good equipment will not guarantee a good picture but will the more expensive camera offer the novice more capabilities to get that 'good' picture, namely that sky behind the bird high in the sky and of course will the more expensive camera offer options that give the professional scope to produce the picture that sets their skills above us mere mortals?
These are polite questions that hopefully provoke debate and not urethra waving!! :oops: :oops: (politely worded military expression)
Hello John, Very good questions and some that have often times crossed my mind. Too many together since they will need some pretty deep answers, each a gem and should evoke some good responses. May I politely suggest you put them up separately on a New Topics string - one at a time. Should reach more people that way.
Just a suggestion.
glojo
Loc: South Devon, England
Indrajeet Singh wrote:
Hello John, Very good questions and some that have often times crossed my mind. Too many together since they will need some pretty deep answers, each a gem and should evoke some good responses. May I politely suggest you put them up separately on a New Topics string - one at a time. Should reach more people that way.
Just a suggestion.
Good morning Indrajeet,
Excellent point and as usual you are correct. :thumbup:
Something that I've done quite often is to get a exposure readong off the back of my hand and then duplicate the camera reading in a manual setting.Unless of course the bird is in a shadow and then just try to duplicate the lighting conditions.
glojo
Loc: South Devon, England
Yesterday we had a kestrel hovering over our garden and sure enough for the first time in weeks.....We had something called sunshine and bright skies..
The sun was so strong you can see the effects on the tail feathers and yes there was shadow..
I do not see how you can take a reading of the back of your hand unless you use a light meter and the birds in my garden would NEVER, ever wait whilst you did this :shock:
Anyone that always takes the perfect picture is either not challenging themselves, or they must NOT be taking 'action' photography :)
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