Interesting your post appears now. I have the same setup D500 & f2.8 70-200 Tamron lens. I just watched a video in the Kelby One training library on this very subject. Some of the things he mentioned were (in no particular order):

-Set your shutter speed to 1/1000th. It is the magic speed to freeze motion.
-Use your camera's high ISO capability to get a nice bright image. You can darken an image and reduce noise, but lightening one always ADDs noise.
-Keep your image sharp. He does his in Lightroom and Photoshop.
-Crop everything but the "story". ie - extra players just standing around or watching the action.
-Watch your background. Try to eliminate things such as buildings and empty seats as much as possible.
-The guiding rule for sports images: "2 eyes and the ball". While there may be exceptions, the vast majority should show those things.
-With a shorter lens such as the 70-200, BE PATIENT and let the action come to you! You won't be able to get the shots on the opposite side of the field!
-Try to catch the extraordinary. Such as a player stretched out for the goal line, airborne or fully extended for a catch. The type of shot that makes people wonder "How did he get that photo?". Players run with the ball that's what they do. Try for something special.
-Let your image show it is part of the game. A shot of a single player with the ball in his hand could be a drill or perhaps he just picked it up. Let your audience see it is game action.

I watched that video because I was shooting soccer under the lights, figuring I could extrapolate some of his suggestions. I ended up setting my D500 to auto ISO max of 10,000! In LR, I applied a value of 25 to the luminosity and bumped saturation up by +5. Those settings may or may not work for someone else, but they were a good starting point for me. I then tried to resist the temptation to shoot anything further away than mid field. (Sometimes the temptation was just too great!) However, I came away with a different mindset. Good, bad or indifferent, I found myself discarding many more. Those I kept I felt a lot better about.

Maybe you'll be able to use some of the things I heard in the video as well.

Great shots ... I would recommend the Tamrom 150-600mm lens (I use the Canon DX1 but it's avail for Nikon too) ... I'm on my second (G2) version and love this lens. I shoot football (and baseball and wildlife) all the time. The 70-200 just doesn't have the range to get in tight from the field edge. I do use the 24-70 lens on a second camera (Canon D810) for crowd and cheerleader shots. I'm about to upgrade to the D850. The real key is taking multiple shots in bursts to get the great action shots. A Manfrotto monopod is a great addition for long lens shots on the field.

Great shots ... I would recommend the Tamrom 150-600mm lens (I use the Canon DX1 but it's avail for Nikon too) ... I'm on my second (G2) version and love this lens. I shoot football (and baseball and wildlife) all the time. The 70-200 just doesn't have the range to get in tight from the field edge. I do use the 24-70 lens on a second camera (Canon D810) for crowd and cheerleader shots. I'm about to upgrade to the D850. The real key is taking multiple shots in bursts to get the great action shots. A Manfrotto monopod is a great addition for long lens shots on the field.