BHC Loc: Strawberry Valley, JF, USA

I have developed a satisfactory way to deal with that pompous ass. When Barrow Boy appears on any thread, I automatically hit the unwatch button. He turns every thread into a personal forum to teach the world how smart he is and how dumb everybody else ends. He offers only negative remarks, never making any constructive suggestions.

BARROW BOY, don’t bother to respond. I’m hitting unwatch as soon as I hit send. And I have you on my ignore list! Up yours!!!

joegim Loc: Long Island, NY

joegim Loc: Long Island, NY

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

Uuglypher Loc: South Dakota (East River)

Hi, Bebe,

Think in terms of aperture full stops, shutter full stops, and ISO full stops being equivalent and fungible.

Think in terms of bright stops and dark stops

If you change aperture one stop smaller that’s a dark stop and must be offset by either
a slower (doubling shutter duration)shutter stop (a bright stop) OR by a doubling of ISO (also a bright stop)
Whether a stop is bright or dark depends on its setting before you change it!

So first decide what creative effect you want. Are you after an aperture effect (DOF) , a shutter effect (stop or blur motion) or an ISO effect (permit a shot in reduced light by doubling ISO?…or reduce ISO one stop for possible reduced noise and less brightness?)

5he point is that given a base exposure, for its equivalent you must keep the bright stops changes and dark stop changes equally off-setting.

That concept has been well received in my classes and workshops.


...and Apaflo is correct. “Exposure” is the amount of light delivered to the sensor. The ISO determines how much brighter or darker the resulting image will be. We loosely and incorrectly use the term “exposure” when we really mean”image brightness”.

Dave

photonutt1970

for every stop you move up on one of the exposure triangle you have to move down on another for example using your settings 1/125, F/8 at ISO 100, lets change the ISO to 200 you either have to go one stop up on the shutter speed or one step up on the F-stop( either 1/160 on the shutter speed or F/9 on the F-stop

BebuLamar

Thank you but one step up if 1/250 or f/11. But I thanks all. Now I have developed a method to do it. Thanks all.

Meives Loc: FORT LAUDERDALE

Here is a fun site for exposure,

http://camerasim.com/apps/camera-simulator/

http://photography-mapped.com/interact.html

wesm Loc: Los Altos CA

I like to think of a water pipe with a valve emptying into a bucket as an analogy. An exposure is the act of opening the valve for some period of time.

Think of aperture as the diameter of a pipe, shutter speed is how long you hold the valve open, and ISO is the volume of a bucket that the light pours into. Over exposed means light (water) spills out. Under-exposed means the bucket didn't get filled as much as you could have.

So if you double the size (volume) of the bucket, you either open the valve half the amount as previous, or decrease the aperture by the equivalent amount. The equivalent amount is a little tricky, since the volume of the pipe depends on the square of the radius, so the factor to go up or down is the square root of two. Full f-stops are (approximately) multiples of each other by a factor of square root of two, approximately 1.4. So going from f/2 to f/2.8 is one full stop, since 2 x 1.4 = 2.8. Same for going from 2.8 to 4, 4 to 5.6, 5.6 to 8, etc.

cambriaman Loc: Central CA Coast

The ISO is the digital measure of the sensitivity of the image chip to light. It is one one the three sides of the exposure triangle.

tdekany Loc: Oregon

I use a mirrorless camera and I don’t even need to check the settings. It is easy.

blackest Loc: Ireland

I don't know really if a triangle is actually the best way of thinking about it.

It's more like a balance scale you tend to balance the exposure speed with the aperture initially till one of them reaches the value you want. most often that tends to be aperture.

Then you look at shutter speed if hand holding you probably relate that to the focal length and subject.

Then adjusting the iso to compensate, more often than not you are looking for more sensitivity but if its less you can add filters.

One thing we tend to shy away from is using flash. If the scene has a large dynamic range the subject may need to be brighter and fill flash can do that. Or perhaps bounce some light back towards the subject with a reflector.

a6k Loc: Detroit & Sanibel

I developed this for a class I taught to "seniors". I like it more than the triangle. Perhaps it will help someone.

frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.

I agree.....Since only two things (aperture and Shutter speed) are really the only two that Control Light.....ISO does not control light, but sensitivity of the sensor to it.....so.....I set my iso and then adjust the aperture and SS to get what I want....Think of the old film days where you bought your film and then adjusted SS and aperture.......Same way with digital...only we can change the ASA (iso) without changing out the film roll, if needed.