To a degree it is similar, but only if you shoot raw. There is no substitute for correct exposure. And if exp comp helps you to get a good exposure it will be better than anything you can do in post processing ....

ETTR is NOT overexposing anything. It is merely shifting the entire histogram to the right WITHOUT overexposing the highlights. The entire point of ETTR is to NOT overexpose anything. The result may look a little "high key" but it is easy to bring the image to a normal tonal range as long as nothing is overexposed.

In some sense, we are using the words "under exposure", "correct exposure", and "over exposure" to mean different things. The important issue is providing data that can be used to create the image you want via the method you want. For example, when I was using Kodachrome I would go to a slightly darker exposure when taking a picture of a white building {such as a New England church}, even though it would make the sky "too blue", because I knew that using the meter's reading would result in an image in which detail {such as individual board demarcations} was washed out.

To a degree it is similar, but only if you shoot raw. There is no substitute for correct exposure. And if exp comp helps you to get a good exposure it will be better than anything you can do in post processing.

There is no such thing as fooling the meter. The meter is operating as it should, and merely suggesting an exposure setting. It is up to the photographer, which a solid understanding of how his/her camera works. to take that suggestion and make a good exposure. I shoot raw, and mostly manual, and I use spot meter. It's really hard to mess up on exposure.

ETTR is NOT overexposing anything. It is merely shifting the entire histogram to the right WITHOUT overexposing the highlights. The entire point of ETTR is to NOT overexpose anything. The result may look a little "high key" but it is easy to bring the image to a normal tonal range as long as nothing is overexposed.

Under exposed images, if shot as raw, can be successfully adjusted when you know what you are doing. It is often necessary to do a luminosity mask in order to apply more aggressive noise reduction and add some contrast to the dark areas.

See "underexposed" image and the adjusted one below. There is no issue in adjusting the deep shadow areas to reveal all that rich detail and texture. Would not have been able to do this if the image was shot as jpeg. In reality the image was not "underexposed" but exposed correctly for the highlights, and adjusted in post to provide a more natural tonal range. No compensation was used, but I did expose for detail in the whitewater, usign the camera's spot meter and adjusting the camera 1 stop higher (more light) than the camera's reading. Had I used the camera's reading without the adjustment, the water would have been gray, and the image would definitely have been underexposed.